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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums.

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Unread 07-14-2003, 11:12 AM   #26
golovko
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danner mag 3 (sealed and i repaired a broken inlet housing)
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Unread 07-14-2003, 11:34 AM   #27
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i also have the danner mag-3. (also sealed and repaired).

Last edited by Cyco-Dude; 04-08-2004 at 04:07 PM.
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Unread 12-25-2003, 07:44 PM   #28
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have a swifty mcp 600 it rox
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Unread 12-25-2003, 10:16 PM   #29
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Iwaki MD15
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Unread 12-26-2003, 12:57 AM   #30
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I use the Eheim 1250. This pump flows extremely well with 2 waterblocks, a BlackIce Extreme II rad, and 1/2" ID Tygon tubing. The 1250 is rated at 1200 liters/hour or 317 gallons/hour. A more powerful pump (like a 500 gallon/hour pump) is just a bit excessive in my opinion. The 1250 is extremely quiet if you isolate the mounting with some kind of damping material.
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Unread 12-26-2003, 02:56 AM   #31
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i have a Shurflo Piranha 500, i believe its a bilge pump.

someone mentioned that bilge pumps should be avoided, why is that?
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Unread 12-26-2003, 04:40 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally posted by zoom314
I looked in My ViaAqua 480 and It's shaft goes all the way, But It looks like once I seal It up with Silicon Adhesive, that will be that. And It should look like this one, I found It on ebay of course. And no I didn't buy It as I'm currently broke.
it does resemble a sicce idra though
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Unread 12-26-2003, 07:23 AM   #33
Gadget01
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Quote:
Originally posted by -J-
i have a Shurflo Piranha 500, i believe its a bilge pump.

someone mentioned that bilge pumps should be avoided, why is that?
Bilge pumps typically do not have a 100% duty cycle, meaning they are not designed to run continuously.
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Unread 12-26-2003, 08:33 AM   #34
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MCP600 - running solid since fixed.
DP-385 - rattling like crazy. using as fish tank sump pump
DP-385 - rattles a little. still contemplating using it.
DP-560 - broke shaft, fixed, died. junk.
DP-650 - not tested yet. don't know why I bought it.
1048 - rattled, found broke shaft and wrong impeller. fixed all, quiet. will be used in next project.
1260 - on its way. will replace junk DP-560.

Whatever is not used for computer stuff will go to my 50 gallon tank. The fish won't have to swim on their own.
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Unread 12-26-2003, 01:42 PM   #35
-J-
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gadget01
Bilge pumps typically do not have a 100% duty cycle, meaning they are not designed to run continuously.
this are the specs of my pump

http://www.shurflo.com/pages/Marine/...bilge_500.html

it says continous duty, would that mean 24/7 ?
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Unread 12-26-2003, 04:19 PM   #36
Gadget01
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Quote:
Originally posted by -J-
this are the specs of my pump

http://www.shurflo.com/pages/Marine/...bilge_500.html

it says continous duty, would that mean 24/7 ?
Yes, continuous duty is the same as 100% duty cycle, meaning you can run it 24/7 without giving it a break or worrying about burning it up.

If you had a pump with a 50% duty cycle rating, you could run it for an hour but you would have to shut it off for an hour prior to running it again.
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Unread 12-26-2003, 05:00 PM   #37
murray13
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Iwaki WMD-30RLZT. External (for the moment) chiller enclosure. Getting temps in the 10 to 14 C range under load.
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Unread 12-27-2003, 10:51 AM   #38
-J-
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gadget01
Yes, continuous duty is the same as 100% duty cycle, meaning you can run it 24/7 without giving it a break or worrying about burning it up.

If you had a pump with a 50% duty cycle rating, you could run it for an hour but you would have to shut it off for an hour prior to running it again.
thx gadget, hope they werent lying when they said it was continuous duty
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Unread 12-27-2003, 09:42 PM   #39
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I listed a DP-385 earlier that was making a lot of noise and was being used as a sump pump. Well, I took it apart and my 3 year old son noticed that the impeller blades were moving on the magnet shaft. I took my other one apart and saw that it was firmly fixed. So, I glued the other one together and now it is quieter than my "quiet" DP-385. Unreal!! He gets a double scoop of ice cream for that one!!
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Unread 12-28-2003, 12:02 AM   #40
dacooltech
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My favorite pumps, that I'm using in my personal systems are:
Eheim 1048
Hydor L30
Swiftech MCP600
Iwaki MD-15R and MD-20RZ
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Unread 12-28-2003, 12:15 AM   #41
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Quote:
The great thing about the 15R is it only consumes 30W of power, just a tad more than the 1250 but has nearly twice the head. Iwaki's get VERY hot on the casing, like burn your hand hot so beware of that. They are very good at not transferring much heat to the water though.
Nikh - I think the MD-15R consumes more than 30W (or 31.9W @ 110V as Iwaki claims), because the numbers really don't add up. plus the pump shouldn't burn my fingers if it does actually run @ 30W. We were discussing this with pH, and came to the conclusion that Iwaki is talking about the amount of heat released in to the coolant probably. Anyway I contacted Iwaki about this, and hoping to get an answer from them early this week.
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Unread 01-12-2004, 08:22 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Razor6
I use a Danner mag 5. I would have bought the mag 3 but when I saw the price difference was only like $6 for an additional 150gph I said what the hell and got the mag 5.

I would say that for the money they are quite good. The only thing that can be annoying is a slight clattering noise that comes from the magnet riding on the shaft. Danner gave the magnet some free rotation so potential pump jamming material could pass through, which isn't a problem for watercooling applications. I should glue the magnet and shaft together but I'm too lazy.
I use a Danner 3. This is my first wc setup so I dont have any experience with other pumps to compare it to. I too thought the little rattling noise was annoying so I used JB weld to connect the magnet and impeller directly. I swear I made every effort to make sure they were perfectly aligned. After that, it would not always start correctly. Most of the time it would just reach a low RPM and make a thrumming noise, every now and then it would start pumping. So I took it apart, scraped off most of the JB weld to free the impeller and fired it up. Now the clattering is gone and it starts every time. Hmm. Dumb luck I guess. Another common complaint is it leaks, but so far mine has not leaked a drop even though I had the front off 3 or 4 times. In my admittedly uninformed opinion it moves a lot of water, maybe more than I need. Its one of the cheaper pumps too. Some have raised concerns about the lack of magnetic shielding. After reading a thread reply from Cathar on the subject I did an experiment where I laid a floppy against the pump casing and start/stop cycled it several times. The floppy lost no files, so Im not worried about any magnetic/emf stuff from it. Too early to comment on reliability, but its been running no problems for a couple weeks now. If you can cure the clattering somehow ( dont ask how i did it, i dont know! ) and nest it in some foam its nearly silent. Mine can just barely be heard a foot or two from the case if you listen closely. Compared to the woosh of the rad fans its inaudible.
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Unread 01-12-2004, 10:41 PM   #43
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I bought a VIA 1300 for $11 recently and been very happy with it. It runs silent and cool. I got my KingPin block and my GF4 440 Pin block in the loop with it with a XP1700+@1800mhz running 24/7 crunching D.F running nice and cool with a 120mm fan with a resistor turning it down to 8volts.


I also have a HydroThruster 500GPH pump which has balls but runs way to hot and at 200ish watts it added $18 a month to the power bill. It does heat the water up beyond it's usefullness at full speed. It has a speed control on it and turning it all the way down actually LOWERS the temps by 4C!!!

I also have a VIA 2600 I got for $22 but havn't used it.

Got a few other pumps not worth discussing.
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Unread 01-13-2004, 07:38 AM   #44
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I might be getting an Eheim 1250, according to what I heard this is good, is this right? PS for about 40 bucks.
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Unread 01-13-2004, 08:13 AM   #45
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Eheim 1048, in all it´s humbleness. Silenced the rattling with some teflon tape between shaft and impeller (thanx for the tip, Grungrefjaert). Tried to silenence a humming noise with O-rings between pump and computer case. Quite silent. I can hear it, my friends can´t.
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Unread 01-13-2004, 10:50 AM   #46
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Eheim 1048 and Eheim 1250, both very quiet and run fine.
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Unread 01-13-2004, 08:59 PM   #47
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Hey, I've been using a VIA1300 for over 2yrs CONTINUOUSLY, without ANY real problems at all. The thing you might want to do is the "Quiet Mod" Which is simply gluing the impellor to the magnet structure in order to reduce some of the noise... The noise isn't noticeable over the rest of anyone's normal components running etc... The reason it doesn't come like that is that it's an anti clog feature, which will never be using in water cooling. Anyhow, for the money, NO pump compares to it at all, not even close. And the reliability? Guess for me, I'm the bench mark at 2yrs going on 3 come the end of this summer!

BTW BigBen= I've been reading about that Johnson's pump deal etc... Seems like lots of folks have had LEAK problems or Burn outs? I'm debating getting one, do you recommend getting one and if so, what SPECIFIC issues will I have to deal with? Thanks!
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Unread 01-14-2004, 10:19 AM   #48
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I've got a Danner 250GPH. Beats me what model the thing is. I bought it from Scopedog probably about a year ago. Still working great after I plumbers-gooped up the entire front casing to stop the leaking
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Unread 01-14-2004, 04:03 PM   #49
kusojiji
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the via 1300 looks like a dp-385 by dolphin and the impeller fix works on it also. hmm, strange.
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Unread 01-14-2004, 04:34 PM   #50
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I'd rather have an Eheim, than a Rio pump, From what I know and have heard Eheim is the best in Both of My hobbies, Aquariums and Computers! Eheim rules others Drool! Now as to Filters It's the Vortex Diatom XL or another Vortex, The Vortex is better and easier to maintain than any other filter, As It will maintain Crystal clear water and will filter debris down to 0.08 microns in size. Now back to the Topic at hand.
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