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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it

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Unread 05-29-2004, 12:18 PM   #1
Jackal
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Default Radeon 9600/9800 sandwich waterblock 3D model preview (images)

I need to post some pictures of my thoughts, what my new prototype waterblok for R9800 is going to look like. Welll with a little modification it can also become the x800 waterblock.


As you can see from the pictures there are basically two blocks - one on the fron and one on the back of the card. I decided to realize the water connectors on the back of the card so they are turned upwards when the card is inserted. The crossection of the channel milled in copper is 128 sq mm. That is exactly 1/2" sq. Above the VPU are planned some fine finns to maximize the contact area with water.
This design on this model is planned to be made out of copper and policarbonate. But I can also solder a copper top to the base in almost no time.

There were some major difficulties with designing, because of unsutable position of mounting holes. So I decided to hard solder the screws in the base of the GPU side block. That way I won't have too much flow restriction.

Although the design is almost final I would like to hear some comments and maybe if there are any suggestions from any of you.

Here are the pictures:

- GPU side of the block




- back side block




- Assembled preview on a card model






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Unread 05-29-2004, 01:33 PM   #2
peepingdan
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what size endmill are you planning on using? Those little fins will be difficult!
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Unread 05-29-2004, 01:40 PM   #3
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Fins are only 0.5mm thick with 1mm space between them. And that part is not going to be milled, but I'm going to use a small HSS saw to cut the fins.
I already made my whitewater clone CPU block that way.
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Unread 05-29-2004, 01:53 PM   #4
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That looks cool, I likey!
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Unread 05-29-2004, 03:27 PM   #5
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You might consider making an allowance for an o-ring: it'll give you a better seal, and it's easily taken apart, over and over.
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Unread 05-29-2004, 04:11 PM   #6
Jackal
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Well... if you take a realy close look, you can see the O-ring on pictures of the model. Unfortunatelly the texture of the rubber isn't too good so it is hard to differentiate it from copper.
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Unread 05-29-2004, 05:09 PM   #7
zer0signal667
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Wow, that looks really nice. What is the material that joins the two halves and what is used to seal those junctions?
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Unread 05-29-2004, 05:56 PM   #8
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looks good, the only thing that doesnt feel ok, is the sealing around the lower mounting rod in the last pic.

maybe you should try a rotor style over the core instead of a micro channel, easier and might even work better in this situation.
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Unread 05-29-2004, 06:01 PM   #9
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Looks great, very nice models Jackal!
I'd suggest placing inlet over VPU finned area and split coolant into two streams for mem modules. Look at jaydee116s block and imagine central inlet and two side outlets. In your case no outlets but channels over mem modules and to the other side.
The most beneficial way of cooling a vid card is to cool its VPU, passive copper heat sinks are more than nuff for all but extreme volt modded specimens (some peeps totally denounce mem chips cooling as counterproductive)
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Unread 05-29-2004, 09:13 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackal
Well... if you take a realy close look, you can see the O-ring on pictures of the model. Unfortunatelly the texture of the rubber isn't too good so it is hard to differentiate it from copper.
I see it now!

Looks fine. Are you making this soon?
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Unread 05-29-2004, 11:06 PM   #11
trit187
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could he have issues with cracking the poly? seems like there would be alot of pressure especially in the middle of the front side, with the O ring pushing up with no clamping force in the center
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Unread 05-29-2004, 11:37 PM   #12
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If i were you id add a bolt to hold the blocks together on the edge where the they over hang the card, just for piece of mind. Other then that looks very nice
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Unread 05-29-2004, 11:41 PM   #13
killernoodle
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Why do you need the o ring in the middle of the card? I suggest you spare your block the strain of the middle o ring and simply make the o ring go on the outside edge.
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Unread 05-29-2004, 11:48 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killernoodle
Why do you need the o ring in the middle of the card? I suggest you spare your block the strain of the middle o ring and simply make the o ring go on the outside edge.
What he said. O-ring will serve no porpose in the middle divider.

Man I have to figure out how to put parts together in Solid Works.
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Unread 05-30-2004, 03:09 AM   #15
Jackal
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Quote:
Looks fine. Are you making this soon?
If I'm lucky the first copper two copper bases will be done today

Quote:
looks good, the only thing that doesnt feel ok, is the sealing around the lower mounting rod in the last pic.
I know - I was banging my head against the wall for that... :shrug: . I wanted to make the cannel crossection 128 sq. mm across the whole block. So I had to widen the whole channel there a bit and put some "island" where the mounting hole is. I'm also thinking that on the finished block, the island will be in water-drop shaped, that way I will really have minimum water resistance.

Quote:
could he have issues with cracking the poly? seems like there would be alot of pressure especially in the middle of the front side, with the O ring pushing up with no clamping force in the center
Well I was thinking of that too and I'm still deciding between completely removing the center O-ring or putting a screw at the end of the O-ring.

Quote:
Wow, that looks really nice. What is the material that joins the two halves and what is used to seal those junctions?
Between copper and polycarbonate is the O-ring, the piece between both blocks will probably be made of policarbonate. Self-understanding that there is also O-ring sealant on both sides of that piece.
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Unread 05-30-2004, 10:16 AM   #16
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Looks great!

While you are at it, make one for me to
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Unread 05-30-2004, 10:30 AM   #17
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Just drop the middle O-ring, it serves no purpose.
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Unread 05-30-2004, 10:44 PM   #18
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kinda reminds me of this http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=274756

maybe you could use the way he cools the core, it looks abit more effiecint
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Unread 05-30-2004, 11:07 PM   #19
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That is the sexiest block I have ever seen.
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Unread 05-31-2004, 01:18 AM   #20
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How do you go about getting an o-ring shaped that way?

Its not hard JD Just throw the two in an assembly and mate some edges, very simple OT/ Do you use solidworks for your CNC, with a plug in? another programme? or code by hand? /OT
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Unread 05-31-2004, 10:43 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Etacovda

Its not hard JD Just throw the two in an assembly and mate some edges, very simple OT/ Do you use solidworks for your CNC, with a plug in? another programme? or code by hand? /OT
I will give it a shot. I have to use a 2D ACAD .dxf for my mills software. I import it and it writes the G-code. With the software I have for it it doesn't do 3D milling so I either have to set depths manually in the G-code after every pass or write my own G-code from what it gives me (pretty much copy and past setting the new depth ect...). Here is a link to the software: http://www.acumotion.com/softdesc.htm

One of these days I might buy the better software that supports the Solid Works files.
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Unread 05-31-2004, 04:17 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Etacovda
OT/ Do you use solidworks for your CNC, with a plug in? another programme? or code by hand? /OT

If you look at previous works posted by jackal, it's clear that he desserves the title of "the most accurate humanized CNC machine"
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Unread 05-31-2004, 04:31 PM   #23
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Nice block! A look-Like the one from BR.
Should i post pictures from the one i am building?
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Unread 06-01-2004, 02:55 AM   #24
Jackal
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Quote:
If you look at previous works posted by jackal, it's clear that he desserves the title of "the most accurate humanized CNC machine"

But I think the days when I was making my waterblocks on a drill press are finally over. I managed to get an agreement to use the mill at my father's workplace. Of course only when it's free. Unfortunately that's mostly over the night. But that isn't a problem for me. And it's a huge mill (Prvomajska) over 4 meters high with 40HP engine and hydraulic XYZ table with manual or automatic feed.

Unfortunately this last weekend the mill was fully ocupied by others so I couldn't get any work on the block done. The other problem is that the block probably won't be finished before than in two to three weeks, because it's the end of semester at our faculty and I have to study hard for some exams and I live approximately 150 km away from home (I study at the faculty of electrical engineering - electronics & microprocessor systems - 4th year finished now). The good thing is that I choose to make a microprocessor controlled CNC controller for one of the subjects to pass And after that there will be no more milling by hand for me.
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Unread 06-01-2004, 03:13 AM   #25
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nice Sketchup'ing Jackal

I have a small question tho, do the gpu and ram have the same hight ? if not, how mutch difference is there ?
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