Taming my Comair Rotron - Page 2

bigben2k · 07-18-2003, 07:56 PM

Well, if you blow the controller, I'll get you another one!

Thanks.

edit: I just had a crazy idea...

Since the unit was made for APW to run virtually silent, would it be possible that the unit is actually a 24 volt motor, labeled as a 12 volt motor? Hum... I'll have to wait for a reply.

FuzzyFace · 07-18-2003, 10:09 PM

Bigben:
Alright I have got three 12w 120vac case fans and one 60w 120vac floor fan (total of 96 watts) running on one of the controllers. No problems other than the normal one that most controllers have which is the max output is less than you would get if connected directly to the power source. This can be cured by using a dpdt switch that would flip between direct connect and fan controller connect. I will leave the fans on for a few hours to see if a failure will occur.

One other thing about these ac fan controllers that I like is the trimmer pot on them. You just set the speed control pot to its minimum speed position (the fan may not even turn at that point) then set the trimmer pot to the lowest rpm you want for that fan. Now the controller pot goes from your minimum rpm to the max the controller can do.

bigben2k · 07-18-2003, 10:38 PM

Sounds ideal!

I didn't plan on using it at full power anyways, because noise is an issue.

Ok, I'll wait 'til your test is over. Can you let me know if any of the controller's compients heat up significantly?

FuzzyFace · 07-19-2003, 04:24 AM

Bigben2k:
I was also wondering about the temperature. But I had it all set up about six feet away from my computer. I could hold my finger on the voltage regulator tab, it was hot, not burning hot. When I got the fan controller I removed the plastic (very thin) shell that was folded around the controller. I did not like the idea of confining the heat generated inside with no way to get out.

When you asked for temps I moved my test setup over next to my computer and put a DigiDoc probe on the aluminum heat sink mounting tab of the voltage regulator.

The fan controller is isolated from the air movement created by the fans.

The room temp next to the fan controller is 31c.

The temp of the voltage regulator is 45c.

When I made the fans work very hard (a coat over the large floor fan, a heavy work sock in front of the case fans) (radiators and heat sinks can make fans work hard) the temp increased to 49c.

With the fans back to being unimpeded I placed as small fan next to the controller and the temp of the voltage regulator dropped to 34c.

The above temps were for the fans running at full speed.

When I lowered the fan speed to just above start speed for the fan that was hardest to start the temp dropped to 43c.

If that’s to hot for you a small heat sink bolted to the hole in the tab of the voltage regulator and a little air circulation will lower the temp of the voltage regulator. Nothing else (capacitors, diode, resistors, pots) in the circuit produces heat of any significance.

All of the above temperature values are rounded to the nearest whole value, and were made using the same probe from my DigiDoc. The probe is not calibrated, and I do not mean to imply that there is any accuracy in the values displayed by my DigitalDoc 5. End of disclaimer.

The test has been running for over six hours with no problems. After this post I will turn it off, and call it a success.

bigben2k · 07-19-2003, 08:49 AM

That's not too bad.

45C is really the limit of a reasonable temp, for electronic components, so it's going to get a fan of its own

All right, thanks for all the help!

I was trying to figure out if there was any other way that I could mount the automotive blowr that I picked up, but aside from a top inlet, which I'd rather avoid in case of a liquid spill

, it just doesn't fit.

So I'll go for the above AC unit, and the Edmunds controller.

BTW, I owe you one!

FuzzyFace · 07-19-2003, 12:25 PM

Your welcome bigben2k, I was glad to help.

FuzzyFace · 07-20-2003, 09:34 PM

One thing I did not mention when discussing my 120vac fan controller. Some people have reported that other brand controllers do not work on some ac fans. I know this has been discussed in other threads , and if memory serves me correctly bigben2k has participated in some of those threads. I do not think anyone else has reported using the Edmund Scientifics ac fan controller other than myself.

I have tested this controller on all of the 120vac fans that I have with reasonable watt values (no 1000 watt blowers tested here). I tried 7 different fans from 5 different companies with 3 different watt values (12,16, and 60 watts). All of those fans worked with my controller.

Because some people have reported that fan controllers do not work with their 120vac fans, there is always the chance that your fan will not work with this Edmund controller. Buyer beware.

bigben2k · 07-27-2003, 11:45 AM

I'll be checking out the auto parts store over the next few days, to see if I can trade my blower for something smaller.

Otherwise, I may have found a source:
http://mcm.newark.com/

Specs:
http://www.nmbtech.com/

Gooserider · 07-28-2003, 12:31 AM

Quote:

igben2k I'll be checking out the auto parts store over the next few days, to see if I can trade my blower for something smaller.

Good idea.

If you can't find something, check out the marine places, especially the places that do bigger boats. You pay extra for anything that says 'marine', but the quality tends to be good. What I was specifically thinking of is that there are Coast Guard regs requiring forced air ventilation of engine and fuel storage spaces that require some pretty strong blowers, most of which are 12VDC, and are designed to be mounted to deck plates and the like. It seems possible to me that they might have something in a compact package with more suitable mounts than a car would have.

Quote:

Otherwise, I may have found a source: http://mcm.newark.com/ Specs: http://www.nmbtech.com/

Those pointers just got me to the front page of each site, do you have something that might be a bit more specific?

Gooserider

bigben2k · 07-28-2003, 09:09 AM

Thanks for the tip.

What I like about the automotive blowers is that they start just fine on 5 volts, and run quiet.

I just need to bring a tape measure, to make sure that whatever I find, allows me to center the blower over the core, while letting the motor sit inside the case, within the 8" width. i.e. from the end of the motor, to the middle of the wheel, cannot exceed 4 inches.

V12|V12 · 07-28-2003, 08:15 PM

Argh, I don't think my Rotron JD12H2 has the speed control function... htf am I going to make a controller that can handle ~25W! Anyone plz!

FuzzyFace · 07-28-2003, 10:06 PM

V12|V12:
I recently pulled out a PWM fan controller that I have and replaced the power MOSFET with one that would handle 4 amps (48 watts). With this I could test my Comair Rotron fan. The controller had no problems varying the speed of the fan, but the fan made a noise coming from the motor not the air movement. This noise was more pronounced at lower speeds. This is a problem with PWM fan controllers. .Some fans will produce a lot of noise when used with a PWM controllers. Somewhere on the net I saw a PWM construction article that discussed this and how to eliminate the problem. Someday I will start looking for the site and try to fix my PWM.

wizard115 said he bought a fan controller from SVC, and it worked for him.
http://www.svc.com/fanandtemman.html
They have a large selection there, but I did not see any thing that would handle the 2.26 amps (27.12 watts) my fan requires. I think its kind of asking for trouble (I could be wrong about that) with a lower rated power transistor.

I did a fast scan of the Comair Rotron data sheets and did find a fan with 12H2 in the part number. It only has terminals (no wire leads) and ball bearings with no other optional features. If they are consistent with the nomenclature after the voltage, it would indicate that your fan does not have speed control built in.

Gooserider · 07-29-2003, 12:40 AM

the stuff I've seen on PWM supplies suggest that the cure for noisy motors at low RPM is to stick a biggish cap across the fan leads. Apparently this acts to take the edges off the squarewave output of the PWM circuit and gives the fan something more closely approximating lower voltage DC. It might not be able to run as slowly, but it will be less noisy when it does run.

Gooserider

FuzzyFace · 07-29-2003, 12:50 AM

Thanks gooserider I’ll have to try that the next time i try my PWM.

BO(V)BZ · 07-29-2003, 08:28 AM

Here's a thread about a fan controller I made to handle the pair of Comair Rotron's that I have, and it works just fine. If you scroll down towards the bottom, you'll see 3 links that tell you pretty much all you need to know about what to buy and how to stick it together.

Good luck if you want to try this route =]

http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...ghlight=Comair

BO(V)BZ

EDIT: Forgot the link, the whole reason I actually bothered to post. =\

bigben2k · 07-29-2003, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Gooserider
the stuff I've seen on PWM supplies suggest that the cure for noisy motors at low RPM is to stick a biggish cap across the fan leads. Apparently this acts to take the edges off the squarewave output of the PWM circuit and gives the fan something more closely approximating lower voltage DC. It might not be able to run as slowly, but it will be less noisy when it does run.

You can also try to change the PWM frequency: sometimes the frequency will come near the timing of the highest amp draw, and the fan falls in and out of synch because of it.

FuzzyFace · 07-29-2003, 01:30 PM

Bigben2k:
Changing the frequency is what I remember as the solution.

I do not need the PWM for my Comair Rotron fans because the pot on the speed control lead works great.

My desire to get the PWM to work was purely academic.

FuzzyFace · 07-29-2003, 01:39 PM

BO(V)BZ:
I know I am going blind, but I do not see the link to your thread.

edit:
Never mind i searched and found it.
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...ghlight=Comair

Gooserider · 07-30-2003, 02:38 AM

I am searching for appropriate fans for my box, and was on the ADDA website http://www.adda.com.tw/products/index.htm and noticed that they mentioned carrying DC blowers in a wide range of sizes and voltages. They might be worth checking out.

(I didn't because I'm looking for some really quiet fans, 120mm, ~80-90 CFM, 40 db MAX, must be able to maintain fairly good volume when pulling through a rad, ideally should have tach out, and possibly a remote thermistor speed control - suggestions welcomed)

Gooserider

BO(V)BZ · 07-30-2003, 11:23 AM

Sorry about that Fuzzy, I just wasn't thinking about it and completely forgot the damn link. I remember copying it, just never did paste it!

FuzzyFace · 07-30-2003, 12:58 PM

I went looking for the article I mentioned above on PWM’s and found it. The site is on a DSL line. So, please go there only if you are interested in the construction (soldering skills involved) of one of these devices. Yes I got permission to link to the site from the owner.

http://casemods.pointofnoreturn.org/

there are 4 nicely done tutorials here. 3 of which were of interest to me.

Tutorial for building a voltage regulator for fans based on the LM317 chip.

Tutorial for building a LED voltage monitor for rheostats/LM317/PWM circuits.

Tutorials and theory for building low-heat, high-amperage PWM fan controllers.

The 4th one is:

Tutorial and software for a LED meter that can display POST codes and CPU/memory/network/harddrive/etc. utilization.

I need to do some studying here to see if I can modify my $5.95US Radio Shack PWM for variable frequency. Or I may decide to wire up one of his circuits on a perf board.

bigben2k · 07-30-2003, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by bigben2k
Otherwise, I may have found a source:
http://mcm.newark.com/

Specs:
http://www.nmbtech.com/

Well, that was a dud.

I can't find any source on the internet for a backward curved motorized impeller, for a reasonable price.

CoolROD · 07-31-2003, 01:39 PM

V12V12 you could just rob the switch and resister pack out of the heater fan of just about any car with a multispeed fan. The resister pack is usually located on or in the heater box to allow airflow to cool the wire resisters. Just a $cheap$ alternative that will waste a little power when running at reduced speed.

CoolROD · 08-02-2003, 10:22 AM

There are also many 3 terminal voltage regulators that can handle 2A. This application is just screaming for one. I don't know how much power radio shack's can handle...let me know if you need help with this. The reg. should cost like $5 (don't get mad if it is $10)

them0nk · 08-10-2004, 09:12 AM

I've been eyeing this thread for a few days now, i'm really liking what i'm seeing... i want to try something out with the same principles...

I'm wondering is the lower amount of air flow... "cfm" going to really hurt the cooling? the setup i saw that dragged me in here (the mounted impeller) was very nice looking and very managable it seems, specially now that i work in the office of a company that build conceptual machinery :-D

Anyways, I'm going to start searching for blowers and such that would be suitable through our vendors, one that I just looked through had a VAC 115 one that looks promising to me... it's almost 80 dollars though even such, it's 180 CFM @ 0 static pressure... hmm any rich people wanna try it out? (hahaha i'm broke what can i say...

college hurts.)

I'm going to continue searching...

07-18-2003, 07:56 PM	#26
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Well, if you blow the controller, I'll get you another one! Thanks. edit: I just had a crazy idea... Since the unit was made for APW to run virtually silent, would it be possible that the unit is actually a 24 volt motor, labeled as a 12 volt motor? Hum... I'll have to wait for a reply. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101 Last edited by bigben2k; 07-18-2003 at 08:08 PM.

07-18-2003, 10:09 PM	#27
FuzzyFace Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: California high desert Posts: 52	Bigben: Alright I have got three 12w 120vac case fans and one 60w 120vac floor fan (total of 96 watts) running on one of the controllers. No problems other than the normal one that most controllers have which is the max output is less than you would get if connected directly to the power source. This can be cured by using a dpdt switch that would flip between direct connect and fan controller connect. I will leave the fans on for a few hours to see if a failure will occur. One other thing about these ac fan controllers that I like is the trimmer pot on them. You just set the speed control pot to its minimum speed position (the fan may not even turn at that point) then set the trimmer pot to the lowest rpm you want for that fan. Now the controller pot goes from your minimum rpm to the max the controller can do. __________________ Have fun, FuzzyFace

07-18-2003, 10:38 PM	#28
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Sounds ideal! I didn't plan on using it at full power anyways, because noise is an issue. Ok, I'll wait 'til your test is over. Can you let me know if any of the controller's compients heat up significantly? __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-19-2003, 04:24 AM	#29
FuzzyFace Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: California high desert Posts: 52	Bigben2k: I was also wondering about the temperature. But I had it all set up about six feet away from my computer. I could hold my finger on the voltage regulator tab, it was hot, not burning hot. When I got the fan controller I removed the plastic (very thin) shell that was folded around the controller. I did not like the idea of confining the heat generated inside with no way to get out. When you asked for temps I moved my test setup over next to my computer and put a DigiDoc probe on the aluminum heat sink mounting tab of the voltage regulator. The fan controller is isolated from the air movement created by the fans. The room temp next to the fan controller is 31c. The temp of the voltage regulator is 45c. When I made the fans work very hard (a coat over the large floor fan, a heavy work sock in front of the case fans) (radiators and heat sinks can make fans work hard) the temp increased to 49c. With the fans back to being unimpeded I placed as small fan next to the controller and the temp of the voltage regulator dropped to 34c. The above temps were for the fans running at full speed. When I lowered the fan speed to just above start speed for the fan that was hardest to start the temp dropped to 43c. If that’s to hot for you a small heat sink bolted to the hole in the tab of the voltage regulator and a little air circulation will lower the temp of the voltage regulator. Nothing else (capacitors, diode, resistors, pots) in the circuit produces heat of any significance. All of the above temperature values are rounded to the nearest whole value, and were made using the same probe from my DigiDoc. The probe is not calibrated, and I do not mean to imply that there is any accuracy in the values displayed by my DigitalDoc 5. End of disclaimer. The test has been running for over six hours with no problems. After this post I will turn it off, and call it a success. __________________ Have fun, FuzzyFace

07-19-2003, 08:49 AM	#30
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	That's not too bad. 45C is really the limit of a reasonable temp, for electronic components, so it's going to get a fan of its own All right, thanks for all the help! I was trying to figure out if there was any other way that I could mount the automotive blowr that I picked up, but aside from a top inlet, which I'd rather avoid in case of a liquid spill , it just doesn't fit. So I'll go for the above AC unit, and the Edmunds controller. BTW, I owe you one! __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-19-2003, 12:25 PM	#31
FuzzyFace Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: California high desert Posts: 52	Your welcome bigben2k, I was glad to help. __________________ Have fun, FuzzyFace

07-20-2003, 09:34 PM	#32
FuzzyFace Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: California high desert Posts: 52	One thing I did not mention when discussing my 120vac fan controller. Some people have reported that other brand controllers do not work on some ac fans. I know this has been discussed in other threads , and if memory serves me correctly bigben2k has participated in some of those threads. I do not think anyone else has reported using the Edmund Scientifics ac fan controller other than myself. I have tested this controller on all of the 120vac fans that I have with reasonable watt values (no 1000 watt blowers tested here). I tried 7 different fans from 5 different companies with 3 different watt values (12,16, and 60 watts). All of those fans worked with my controller. Because some people have reported that fan controllers do not work with their 120vac fans, there is always the chance that your fan will not work with this Edmund controller. Buyer beware. __________________ Have fun, FuzzyFace

07-27-2003, 11:45 AM	#33
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	I'll be checking out the auto parts store over the next few days, to see if I can trade my blower for something smaller. Otherwise, I may have found a source: http://mcm.newark.com/ Specs: http://www.nmbtech.com/ __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-28-2003, 09:09 AM	#35
bigben2k Responsible for 2% of all the posts here. Join Date: May 2002 Location: Texas, U.S.A. Posts: 8,302	Thanks for the tip. What I like about the automotive blowers is that they start just fine on 5 volts, and run quiet. I just need to bring a tape measure, to make sure that whatever I find, allows me to center the blower over the core, while letting the motor sit inside the case, within the 8" width. i.e. from the end of the motor, to the middle of the wheel, cannot exceed 4 inches. __________________ WBTA (Water Block Testing Alliance) Nordic Hardware WC 101

07-28-2003, 08:15 PM	#36
V12\|V12 Cooling Savant Join Date: May 2002 Location: Ohio-State! <--Money Hussle! SUCKS Posts: 292	Argh, I don't think my Rotron JD12H2 has the speed control function... htf am I going to make a controller that can handle ~25W! Anyone plz! __________________ XP 1600+ AGOIA-Y (GreenLabel, UNLOCKED!@/ NF7-S 2.0/ PC 2700 DDR 10.5*172FSB(1806/ 1991 high), Vcore 1.792...@84.95Watts --86' Chevette Heater Core --1/2" Vinyl tubes --Via1300-Stealth Mod(QUIET!) ---Home made copper-tube block ---PVC small internal res

07-28-2003, 10:06 PM	#37
FuzzyFace Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: California high desert Posts: 52	V12\|V12: I recently pulled out a PWM fan controller that I have and replaced the power MOSFET with one that would handle 4 amps (48 watts). With this I could test my Comair Rotron fan. The controller had no problems varying the speed of the fan, but the fan made a noise coming from the motor not the air movement. This noise was more pronounced at lower speeds. This is a problem with PWM fan controllers. .Some fans will produce a lot of noise when used with a PWM controllers. Somewhere on the net I saw a PWM construction article that discussed this and how to eliminate the problem. Someday I will start looking for the site and try to fix my PWM. wizard115 said he bought a fan controller from SVC, and it worked for him. http://www.svc.com/fanandtemman.html They have a large selection there, but I did not see any thing that would handle the 2.26 amps (27.12 watts) my fan requires. I think its kind of asking for trouble (I could be wrong about that) with a lower rated power transistor. I did a fast scan of the Comair Rotron data sheets and did find a fan with 12H2 in the part number. It only has terminals (no wire leads) and ball bearings with no other optional features. If they are consistent with the nomenclature after the voltage, it would indicate that your fan does not have speed control built in. __________________ Have fun, FuzzyFace

07-29-2003, 12:40 AM	#38
Gooserider Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: North Billerica, MA, USA Posts: 451	I could be wront, but AFAIK, the stuff I've seen on PWM supplies suggest that the cure for noisy motors at low RPM is to stick a biggish cap across the fan leads. Apparently this acts to take the edges off the squarewave output of the PWM circuit and gives the fan something more closely approximating lower voltage DC. It might not be able to run as slowly, but it will be less noisy when it does run. Gooserider __________________ Designing system, will have Tyan S2468UGN Dual Athlon MOBO, SCSI HDDS, other goodies. Will run LINUX only. Want to have silent running, minimal fans, and water cooled. Probably not OC'c

07-29-2003, 12:50 AM	#39
FuzzyFace Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: California high desert Posts: 52	Thanks gooserider I’ll have to try that the next time i try my PWM. __________________ Have fun, FuzzyFace

07-29-2003, 08:28 AM	#40
BO(V)BZ Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: WI Posts: 53	Here's a thread about a fan controller I made to handle the pair of Comair Rotron's that I have, and it works just fine. If you scroll down towards the bottom, you'll see 3 links that tell you pretty much all you need to know about what to buy and how to stick it together. Good luck if you want to try this route =] http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...ghlight=Comair BO(V)BZ EDIT: Forgot the link, the whole reason I actually bothered to post. =\ Last edited by BO(V)BZ; 07-30-2003 at 11:22 AM.

07-29-2003, 01:30 PM	#42
FuzzyFace Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: California high desert Posts: 52	Bigben2k: Changing the frequency is what I remember as the solution. I do not need the PWM for my Comair Rotron fans because the pot on the speed control lead works great. My desire to get the PWM to work was purely academic. __________________ Have fun, FuzzyFace

07-29-2003, 01:39 PM	#43
FuzzyFace Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: California high desert Posts: 52	BO(V)BZ: I know I am going blind, but I do not see the link to your thread. edit: Never mind i searched and found it. http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...ghlight=Comair __________________ Have fun, FuzzyFace Last edited by FuzzyFace; 07-29-2003 at 01:59 PM.

07-30-2003, 02:38 AM	#44
Gooserider Cooling Savant Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: North Billerica, MA, USA Posts: 451	Just as a quick FWIW I am searching for appropriate fans for my box, and was on the ADDA website http://www.adda.com.tw/products/index.htm and noticed that they mentioned carrying DC blowers in a wide range of sizes and voltages. They might be worth checking out. (I didn't because I'm looking for some really quiet fans, 120mm, ~80-90 CFM, 40 db MAX, must be able to maintain fairly good volume when pulling through a rad, ideally should have tach out, and possibly a remote thermistor speed control - suggestions welcomed) Gooserider __________________ Designing system, will have Tyan S2468UGN Dual Athlon MOBO, SCSI HDDS, other goodies. Will run LINUX only. Want to have silent running, minimal fans, and water cooled. Probably not OC'c

07-30-2003, 11:23 AM	#45
BO(V)BZ Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: WI Posts: 53	Sorry about that Fuzzy, I just wasn't thinking about it and completely forgot the damn link. I remember copying it, just never did paste it!

07-30-2003, 12:58 PM	#46
FuzzyFace Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: California high desert Posts: 52	I went looking for the article I mentioned above on PWM’s and found it. The site is on a DSL line. So, please go there only if you are interested in the construction (soldering skills involved) of one of these devices. Yes I got permission to link to the site from the owner. http://casemods.pointofnoreturn.org/ there are 4 nicely done tutorials here. 3 of which were of interest to me. Tutorial for building a voltage regulator for fans based on the LM317 chip. Tutorial for building a LED voltage monitor for rheostats/LM317/PWM circuits. Tutorials and theory for building low-heat, high-amperage PWM fan controllers. The 4th one is: Tutorial and software for a LED meter that can display POST codes and CPU/memory/network/harddrive/etc. utilization. I need to do some studying here to see if I can modify my $5.95US Radio Shack PWM for variable frequency. Or I may decide to wire up one of his circuits on a perf board. __________________ Have fun, FuzzyFace

07-31-2003, 01:39 PM	#48
CoolROD Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: North Carolina, USA Posts: 225	V12V12 you could just rob the switch and resister pack out of the heater fan of just about any car with a multispeed fan. The resister pack is usually located on or in the heater box to allow airflow to cool the wire resisters. Just a $cheap$ alternative that will waste a little power when running at reduced speed. __________________ Jack of all Trades, Master of None.

08-02-2003, 10:22 AM	#49
CoolROD Cooling Savant Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: North Carolina, USA Posts: 225	There are also many 3 terminal voltage regulators that can handle 2A. This application is just screaming for one. I don't know how much power radio shack's can handle...let me know if you need help with this. The reg. should cost like $5 (don't get mad if it is $10) __________________ Jack of all Trades, Master of None.

08-10-2004, 09:12 AM	#50
them0nk Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Redlands, CA Posts: 5	I've been eyeing this thread for a few days now, i'm really liking what i'm seeing... i want to try something out with the same principles... I'm wondering is the lower amount of air flow... "cfm" going to really hurt the cooling? the setup i saw that dragged me in here (the mounted impeller) was very nice looking and very managable it seems, specially now that i work in the office of a company that build conceptual machinery :-D Anyways, I'm going to start searching for blowers and such that would be suitable through our vendors, one that I just looked through had a VAC 115 one that looks promising to me... it's almost 80 dollars though even such, it's 180 CFM @ 0 static pressure... hmm any rich people wanna try it out? (hahaha i'm broke what can i say... college hurts.) I'm going to continue searching...

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