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Unread 07-10-2003, 08:45 AM   #1
bigben2k
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Default Trim my plate!

I picked up an automotive blower, as a fan for my heatercore, but it's got a large mounting plate, and I need it trimmed!

The blower wheel is 6 1/4" in diameter, and the plate varies from 6" to 8".

I need someone to trim the plate down to ~ 3/4" outside the blower wheel.

All I have to do this, is a hacksaw, but I don't have enough patience

I'll cover shipping, of course, plus whatever fee you quote me.
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Unread 07-24-2003, 01:49 AM   #2
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Default What is the thickness?

I have a wide range of 'implements of destruction', ranging from Oxy-Acetelyne torches, to a SawzAll, assorted grinders, and a rather crappy milling machine.

Assuming you mark out the cut line precisely and indelibly (preferably scribed on Dykem Blue, but a fine line Sharpie would do) I am reasonably sure I could handle it.

I'm guessing at a cost, but probably something in the neighboorhood of $20 or so, plus shipping, mostly because of the hassle factor of shipping it, etc.

PM me if interested so we can do details like addresses and so forth.

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Unread 07-24-2003, 09:19 AM   #3
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Thanks Gooserider.

Unfortunately, I opted to dump it, because it's just too big:
Attached Images
File Type: jpg old blower in case.jpg (39.7 KB, 158 views)
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Unread 07-24-2003, 01:24 PM   #4
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I don't know, Those plastic cup spaces look promising!
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Unread 07-24-2003, 11:39 PM   #5
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Default No Problem...

I can understand seeing the picture of it, certainly it does look a bit clunky. I'm also not sure how a centrifugal fan like that would work without some kind of housing to keep the incoming and outgoing airstreams seperate.(or were you planning to duct into the center with a blow hole or something?)

It is an interesting idea at any rate. I see lots of negative comments about the standard axial fans we use (loud, poor performance pulling through a rad, etc.) but not much discussion of alternatives....

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Unread 07-25-2003, 11:42 AM   #6
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I found this AC unit, in this thread:
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=7314

Here's the unit:
http://www.ctrsurplusonline.com/prod...235&1=236&3=72
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Unread 07-25-2003, 10:50 PM   #7
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Neat unit, hope it does what you want it to... Also an interesting thread, I may chime in on it, and at the very least, I'm now following it.

While I'm not thrilled with axial fans, I think it's the only way I can go with my setup, at least without doing some really odd duct work. (although if I find my case temps get to high it might be a way to deal with getting the rad air out of the case...)

The problem is that any of the centrifugal blowers effectively do a 90* turn in the airflow, and I want my flow to go in a straight line. I'm planning in terms of two fans sucking in through the rad and pressurizing the case, with two more fans at the exhaust ports helping pull the hot air out if needed. The rad and associated fans will be at the front of the case, but I'm hoping that pulling through the rad and some filtering material will muffle them pretty well.

I'm having a bit of a dillema on fan choice, I want quiet, but I need a pretty fair volume of air movement. Initially I was thinking Papst, as they are supposedly the quietest fans, but some of the rad airflow test info suggests that they do a bad job of pulling through the rad. Panaflows were my second choice, but they also seem to do a fairly bad job. I may do some poking around to see what Comair-Rotron has to offer, their name seems to keep popping up all over, and at least the technical end of their website seems impressive.

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Unread 07-26-2003, 01:23 AM   #8
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Well, if you find *any* source for a 12 Vdc motorized impeller, with decent flow rate, PM me!
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Unread 07-27-2003, 01:43 AM   #9
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Default Will keep an eye out,

but no luck so far -
I just glanced through my MSC catalog (where I've been getting some of my milling machine stuff, it's an industrial supply place sort of like Graingers, but w/ a slightly different mix) and have found the opposite extreme - how about a 10HP, 240/460V, 3Ph blower that puts out 21,120 CFM? Think that will give you enough volume?

Or if you want a blowhole, they have a 7.5HP, 3Ph, unit that gives 47,000 CFM (free air rating)

On a more serious note, they do have a section for 'Blower wheels' ranging from 3 25/32" D X 1 7/8" W to 10.75"D x 10.5" W. CW and CCW rotation. You'd have to come up with your own motor and housing, etc. but that isn't as hard as the blower.

The only other alternative I could suggest would be checking out the various auto salvage yards and seeing if you could find a car that used something of appropriate size. I would think with sizes from mini-imports to SUV's you might be able to come up with something that would work.

Another place that MIGHT have something is either an RV / camping trailer store, or possibly a boat supply catalog (ie Boats U.S.) Those are the main places I can think of that would use 12VDC blowers as opposed to AC stuff.

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Unread 07-27-2003, 10:00 AM   #10
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Yeah I have to stop by an auto parts shop, so that I can replace the ignition switch on my car

So I'll stop by the shop where I picked up the current blower, bring a measuring tape, and see if I can find something that'll fit, before I go with the AC unit.
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Unread 07-28-2003, 12:38 AM   #11
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Quote:
bigben2k Yeah I have to stop by an auto parts shop, so that I can replace the ignition switch on my car
Bummer... A minor peice of info on that to think about, I don't know how true it is, but it makes sense.

Do you have a big keychain with lots of dangly type stuff or huge numbers of keys??? I was once told by a mechanic that ignition switches aren't designed to take a lot of weight, and that heavy keyrings, especially those which are long enough to swing around alot when driving can cause premature failure. Allegedly the swinging mass puts torque on the switch innards that causes extra wear and tear. I don't know if it applies to you or not but it might be worth thinking about.

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Unread 07-28-2003, 09:20 AM   #12
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I just got the car. I do have a heavy keychain, but here the problem is electrical, and the switch is at least 4 inches away from the key, when inserted.

The car runs fine, but none of the accessories work, because of a bad contact. Unfortunately, it happens to include the windshield wipers, which must pass inspection, as this car needs it, so I have to fix it. I managed to pull out the switch yesterday, but all I was able to do, was break/bend the housing open, and get it to where the car won't stay running.

I have to call the dealership first, to get a price. Then I'll go find a used one.

Otherwise, if I can get the switch to allow the car to start, I can hotwire the accessories.
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Unread 07-29-2003, 01:36 AM   #13
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Default But that is the nature of the problem!

Quote:
bigben2k: I just got the car. I do have a heavy keychain, but here the problem is electrical, and the switch is at least 4 inches away from the key, when inserted.
If you just got the car, then it probably wasn't you, more likely the P.O....

However the symptom you describe is typical... The mechanical part of the switch gets torqued by the heavy keys, which in turn torques the electrical bits, and makes them wear (and possibly over heat, which burns the contacts, which makes the problem worse and accelerates the electrical wear) until the switch gets increasingly intermittent. So it is an electrical problem caused by mechanical stress.

A couple of other thoughts...

1. You may be able to pick up a new switch at a good auto store (i.e. NAPA), depends on the car, but they do carry them for some cars. If you have one of the steering colum switches they often sell just the electrical switch module part, so you don't have to worry about getting a different key. This might be easier than doing the salvage yard route, especially for a colum switch.

2. See if you can find a wiring diagram for your car and it's switch, then see if you can find an alternative replacement. This is more likely to work on a car with a dashboard switch...

(3rd alternative, are your state's inspection stations run by the state, or do you go to a local gas station? Here in MA it is known that there exist certain stations that have a two tier price plan - you can pay one price and get your car inspected, or pay a higher price and get an inspection sticker
Good luck,

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Unread 07-29-2003, 08:48 AM   #14
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Default Re: But that is the nature of the problem!

Quote:
Originally posted by Gooserider
A couple of other thoughts...

1. You may be able to pick up a new switch at a good auto store (i.e. NAPA), depends on the car, but they do carry them for some cars. If you have one of the steering colum switches they often sell just the electrical switch module part, so you don't have to worry about getting a different key. This might be easier than doing the salvage yard route, especially for a colum switch.

2. See if you can find a wiring diagram for your car and it's switch, then see if you can find an alternative replacement. This is more likely to work on a car with a dashboard switch...

(3rd alternative, are your state's inspection stations run by the state, or do you go to a local gas station? Here in MA it is known that there exist certain stations that have a two tier price plan - you can pay one price and get your car inspected, or pay a higher price and get an inspection sticker
Good luck,

Gooserider
Yeah, it's gotta be P.O.

I tried the dealership, and they want $55, and they have to order it. I don't know why I didn't think of NAPA... The switch is easily removed by unscrewing two screws, and taking off two connectors.

The switch is labelled, so finding the right wire isn't terribly difficult.

State inspections in Texas are done by shops that are certified to do so. The price is regulated. I don't know about "pre-inspections", right now I just want the wipers to work!

I'll figure it out, no problem.
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Unread 07-30-2003, 02:28 AM   #15
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Quote:
I tried the dealership, and they want $55, and they have to order it. I don't know why I didn't think of NAPA...
Probably because you thought of it as a "dealer item", I know I would have. I've learned though that it is hard to predict what items are 'dealer' and what things are 'parts house', there doesn't seem to be a real good pattern on which is which. I've just learned to call NAPA first, and then call the dealer if they tell me to.
Quote:
State inspections in Texas are done by shops that are certified to do so. The price is regulated. I don't know about "pre-inspections"...
Hmmmm.... I don't think you got my meaning, MA has the same type of setup as you describe. However, if you can convince the wrench that you aren't an undercover trying to trap him, at some stations they will skip the inspection and just give you the sticker (for appropriate in$entive$) Helps if you know the person ahead of time, or can give a reference ('Joe sent me')

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Unread 07-30-2003, 12:57 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by Gooserider
...

Hmmmm.... I don't think you got my meaning, MA has the same type of setup as you describe. However, if you can convince the wrench that you aren't an undercover trying to trap him, at some stations they will skip the inspection and just give you the sticker (for appropriate in$entive$) Helps if you know the person ahead of time, or can give a reference ('Joe sent me')

Gooserider
My God! You mean to say that a well-meaning state law can provide such an environment for corruption?! Shocked, I am!

[/sarcasm mode]

Bob:shrug:
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Unread 07-30-2003, 10:35 PM   #17
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I have used Auto Zone or O'Reilly's for at least three ignition switches. You can go to Auto Zone or O'Reilly and set up a profile and check prices and availability. At Auto Zone yuo can even send them a parts pick and they will have the stuff waiting for you. BTW - I checked on the price of the switch for my truck while getting the links and my truck ign. switch is $12.99. I'm guessing Dodge wants in the area of $40-$50 for a $13 item.

On your blower prob, my truck has a plastic housing (do I hear a Dremel) with the motor/fan mounted to it. It is right on the firewall so you don't have to rip apart the dash to get to it. The bad news - the fan/motor combo is at least 8" deep. I don't know how much room your case has. For 1 or 2 bucks you can go to one of the Pick-ur-parts places in the Houston area and look all day. If you find something promising, $5-$10 will take it home. I doubt if any auto parts store will have the mounting plate or fan, just the motor.

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Unread 07-30-2003, 10:42 PM   #18
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Autozone wanted 68$, NAPA was closed, and O'Reilley doesn't carry it.

I'll call Autozone again tmo, just to make sure they didn't confuse it with the whole ignition keylock. I'll have to call NAPA too.
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Unread 07-31-2003, 04:08 PM   #19
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NAPA doesn't have it, so I caved and forked out the $68 that Autozone wanted. Everything works fine now.

Maybe I'll call another dealership, and if they have it in stock for cheaper, I'll return it to Autozone.

I still have to exchange that blower, so maybe if I'm lucky, I can pick it up there. I also need an emergency wheel. (Now what was my bro-in-law thinking?!?)

I also need to replace the missing right foglight, which appears to be a stock part.

Then I have to flush the coolant (right now it's water only!), do an oil change, vacuum the insides, fix an air vent, apply a silicone sealer to the doors (it leaks water), rotate the tires (it's got two different tires up front !!!), wax it, maybe an alignment, coat the underside, do a few paint touch ups, add carpets inside (there's only one left), then I want to add a solar powered fan for those hot summer days when the car is sitting under the harsh sun.

Now if I was smart, I'd resell this thing for 2G$ (paid 1G$), and put it down as a downpayment on something nicer. Later...
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Unread 08-01-2003, 01:26 AM   #20
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Glad to hear you've gotten the main problem fixed at least... Fair bit of work to go on the rest of it, but nothing that sounds to drastic or urgent.

Up to you about trading the car in, but I know I've always had a strong leaning against term payments. Every vehicle I've owned has been paid for in full at the time of purchase, and I've enjoyed not having payments to make every month, and not having to pay interest. It also saved me huge amounts on insurance as I could 'self insure' for damage to the car, and only had to pay for liability coverage. If you finance, they make you get full coverage, which costs a small fortune. I figure I save enough on each vehicle to pretty much pay for the next one. (I do the same with my plastic, it gets paid in full every month, so I never have to give the credit card company any interest...)

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Unread 08-01-2003, 07:20 AM   #21
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Yeah. I still need a job to do that, and I hate having payments on a car. My wife disagrees...
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