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Water Block Design / Construction Building your own block? Need info on designing one? Heres where to do it

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Unread 12-03-2003, 09:48 PM   #1
Nightingale
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Default Need advice on DIY water block

I was wondering if it would be possible to make a cascade with a dremel with a router guide to make straight channels. I have everything though out and I don't think it would be to hard to do with the dremel. Also I don't have access to a mill to make an o-ring groove so I was wondering what options I have for make a seal with a polytop that will look good. Also any other suggestions for a waterblock design other then a #rotor. Also my block is 3/4 thick aluminum.
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Last edited by Nightingale; 12-04-2003 at 01:54 AM.
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Unread 12-04-2003, 09:38 AM   #2
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First off, if you're talking about channels, I have to assume that you're talking about the "White Water", and not the "Cascade".

Yes, it's possible, but you have to keep in mind that the tolerances are pretty loose: it's going to be difficult to keep it aligned.

Another problem that you may encounter, is that the copper piece is going to heat up quite nicely, and threaten to melt the Dremel attachment (I know, I have one too).

Oh, you're doing this in Alu! Hum, keep an eye on it.

As for the o-ring groove: forget it: the accuracy of the Dremel attachment just isn't there. I'd go with the simpler RTV silicone sealer, in your position.
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Unread 12-04-2003, 09:49 AM   #3
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Ok but is rtv clear or is there a clear substitute that works well? Also I figured that the tolerances wouldn't be very accurate, but I just don't know if I can justify buying a mill right now as I would probably just make a waterblock or to. Although can a drill press with a x and y axis vice allso be used as a simple mill for light work. I understand these have a thinner arbor shaft that can bend easy, but still should I go get a 70 dollar drill press or just wait like a month or two and buy the 280 dollar mill on harbor freight or that 400 dollar 3-in-1 mill.
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Last edited by Nightingale; 12-04-2003 at 09:56 AM.
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Unread 12-05-2003, 12:10 AM   #4
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RTV can be commonly found in translucent colors and translucent clear, a thin layer of translucent clear when applied properly (ie bubble free, evenly applied, not too much applied-don't want it going in the channels) is virtually undetectable. I'm assuming you're looking to use a clear top, if you're going for the copper top, who cares whip out the blue RTV
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Unread 12-05-2003, 08:16 AM   #5
Nightingale
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Yeah I am going for a polytop cause I love eyecandy and plan to add LED's but I still don'y want to have a waterfall in my case especially since my pc is located on top of my desk with a power switch box
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Unread 12-08-2003, 09:28 PM   #6
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Quote:
Nightingale:
Although can a drill press with a x and y axis vice allso be used as a simple mill for light work. I understand these have a thinner arbor shaft that can bend easy, but still should I go get a 70 dollar drill press or just wait like a month or two and buy the 280 dollar mill on harbor freight or that 400 dollar 3-in-1 mill.
A drill press is *NOT* suitable for use as a mill substitute! Along with a skinny bend prone arbor shaft, most also use a Morse or Jacobs Taper mount for the drill chuck, with no locking screw.

A taper mount for the chuck works fine as long as you are drilling in a straight line, but if you hit it with a side load it will come unstuck and drop the chuck. If you are lucky all that will do is damage your workpeice, but it might also cause further tool damage and even personal injury.

As to a cheap mill, I purchased a Smithy mill/drill combo machine, which is a better unit than the Harbor Freight job, and have hated it every time I've used it since. IMNSHO it's a total POS. I've seen the HF unit and it's even worse. I would strongly advise against wasting money on a cheap mill, as you get something considerably worse than what you pay for.

However, *IF* you have the space and don't plan to move any time soon (moving gets real expensive!), check your local used machine shop dealers. The ones in my area at least (Boston, MA) say they can get you a J-2 head manual BRIDGEPORT, delivered, with a 1/3 phase converter so you can run off 220VAC house power for around $1200 - This is less than I paid for my Smithy... Between the increased use of CNC's, and the loss of manufacturing jobs, good used manual mills are dirt cheap these days.

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Unread 12-08-2003, 09:56 PM   #7
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The plan now is to do a few pc painting and building jobs(already have 2 potential customers)and then buy a sieg X2 mill from harbor frieght for 500.
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