Small Water Blocks

USFJoseph · 10-27-2002, 01:12 PM

I'm looking for suggestions of micro/mini waterblocks. I have a MicroATX case that is 3" high. I've looked at the Maze 3 but with the top & fittings it's about 2 1/2" high -- going to be close with the tubing as well.

So I'm looking for any suggestions of micro waterblocks. Preferably something with a clear top - I looked at the Koolance blocks but I again prefer a clear top & I don't think the Koolance's show enough of the top with their clips. Also, I've heard bad things about the Koolance over the Maze3's.

Also, what about adding on L connectors to the Maze3 -- do you think that would work? Would that degrade it's abilities?

Thanks!
Joseph

mfpmax · 10-27-2002, 01:54 PM

Yes you can add 90 degree barbs to the Maze 3...but with a clear top, if you decide to go with the Maze 3 clear top, have them install it, because you'll risk of cracking or weakening the top itself and possible future leaks.

I'd try not to care about the top of a waterblock if I'm trying to make it small as that just makes it difficult and the fact that most microblocks would be designed 99% for functionality than looks.

And the fact that you watercooled such a small computer would be a feat in itself so a clear top block would just be lke sprinkles on a cup cake. They add a bit of flavor to it, but not enough to make you go "WOW".

About the only microblock I think i've seen with a clear top though is the Maze GPU waterblock that i've seen on an ATI9700 video card.

ChrioN · 10-27-2002, 02:46 PM

rotor is got something for you im sura

mfpmax · 10-27-2002, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ChrioN
rotor is got something for you im sura

Yeah, the 1U blocks mentioned in the Waterblock section?

#Rotor · 10-27-2002, 07:39 PM

hehe... how low do you need to go.......

I'll take you there....

linkage
linkage

this design is using 1/4-18NPT thread from the side, which will allow it to take up to 1/2" Barbs in the normal brass style. it can obviously be fitted with some elbows, as in the pictures.

in the pictures, it has some press-in fittings, for 3/8od tube. the design do not really need astronomical amounts of flow-rate to function in it's sweetspot.

MadDogMe · 10-28-2002, 03:08 AM

Quote:

if you decide to go with the Maze 3 clear top, have them install it, because you'll risk of cracking or weakening the top itself and possible future leaks

Most cracks apear sooner or later from overtightening, best thing to use is silicone sealant(as DangerDen use), aply sealant to bottom half of thread on barb, hand tighten the barbs into block, then give them a 1/4, 1/2(depending on how tight/stiff the thread feels) turn with a spanner, then leave overnight to allow the sealant time to cure.
I did my M3 with PTFE tape and hand tightened and 1/2 turned it,(I could of tightened it 3 or 4 turns) has'nt leaked since...

Some barbs have a slightly conical shape, wider at the top, these are the ones that can cause cracking the most. even normal ones may crack over time if overtightened, due to expansion/contraction with temperature fluctuation, not going too far past hand tight is the key, plus sealant does'nt depend on tightness/compression for its seal...
If you're really worried get some plastic/nylon barbs, they usualy have a wider inner bore compared to most brass ones, allowing for better flowrate through them as a bonus!. Brass barbs are made to withstand huge pressures inherent in HP~air lines, a little bit 'overkill' for H2o

...

USFJoseph · 10-28-2002, 08:47 AM

Hey Rotor!

Nice blocks!! You have prices for them? Also, do you happen to make ones with lucite/clear tops? I'm really looking for appearance in this case.

Thanks!
Joseph

#Rotor · 10-28-2002, 11:19 AM

clear top is not my forty.... I know it looks awesome, but reliability is a bit higher up on the food chain.

the other problem is how to manufacture the block, espetially cutting the threads for the barbs. doing it into a copper block, consisting of two halves like that is no problem, but trying that with one half copper, and the other lusite.... well needless to say... not such a good idea...

you can however get them in a BUFFED UP condition....

almost like this
http://3rotor.homelinux.com/images/C...ock/index.html

$55 for a buffed one

10-27-2002, 01:12 PM	#1
USFJoseph Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 15	Small Water Blocks I'm looking for suggestions of micro/mini waterblocks. I have a MicroATX case that is 3" high. I've looked at the Maze 3 but with the top & fittings it's about 2 1/2" high -- going to be close with the tubing as well. So I'm looking for any suggestions of micro waterblocks. Preferably something with a clear top - I looked at the Koolance blocks but I again prefer a clear top & I don't think the Koolance's show enough of the top with their clips. Also, I've heard bad things about the Koolance over the Maze3's. Also, what about adding on L connectors to the Maze3 -- do you think that would work? Would that degrade it's abilities? Thanks! Joseph

10-27-2002, 01:54 PM	#2
mfpmax Cooling Savant Join Date: Oct 2000 Location: Rockledge,FL,US Posts: 731	Yes you can add 90 degree barbs to the Maze 3...but with a clear top, if you decide to go with the Maze 3 clear top, have them install it, because you'll risk of cracking or weakening the top itself and possible future leaks. I'd try not to care about the top of a waterblock if I'm trying to make it small as that just makes it difficult and the fact that most microblocks would be designed 99% for functionality than looks. And the fact that you watercooled such a small computer would be a feat in itself so a clear top block would just be lke sprinkles on a cup cake. They add a bit of flavor to it, but not enough to make you go "WOW". About the only microblock I think i've seen with a clear top though is the Maze GPU waterblock that i've seen on an ATI9700 video card. __________________ My old and retired watercooling setup. Watercooled K6-2 450 at 600 Also Retired - Watercooling an XP1800@1782MHz

10-27-2002, 07:39 PM	#5
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	hehe... how low do you need to go....... I'll take you there.... linkage linkage this design is using 1/4-18NPT thread from the side, which will allow it to take up to 1/2" Barbs in the normal brass style. it can obviously be fitted with some elbows, as in the pictures. in the pictures, it has some press-in fittings, for 3/8od tube. the design do not really need astronomical amounts of flow-rate to function in it's sweetspot. __________________ There is no Spoon....

10-28-2002, 11:19 AM	#8
#Rotor Cooling Savant Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Dione, sector 4s1256 Posts: 852	clear top is not my forty.... I know it looks awesome, but reliability is a bit higher up on the food chain. the other problem is how to manufacture the block, espetially cutting the threads for the barbs. doing it into a copper block, consisting of two halves like that is no problem, but trying that with one half copper, and the other lusite.... well needless to say... not such a good idea... you can however get them in a BUFFED UP condition.... almost like this http://3rotor.homelinux.com/images/C...ock/index.html $55 for a buffed one __________________ There is no Spoon....

10-27-2002, 02:46 PM	#3
ChrioN Cooling Savant Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Sweden Posts: 318	rotor is got something for you im sura

10-28-2002, 08:47 AM	#7
USFJoseph Cooling Neophyte Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Tampa Posts: 15	Hey Rotor! Nice blocks!! You have prices for them? Also, do you happen to make ones with lucite/clear tops? I'm really looking for appearance in this case. Thanks! Joseph

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)