3 Tap Fill and Bleed Part Selection & Thank You

[caxis0]

Hi. I want to make a 1/2" ID 3 Tap Fill and Bleed assembly and am interested in using the most appropriate parts (with regard to introducing new materials to the loop, etc). I would greatly appreciate some help.

I've thought about using PVC or copper tubing from a hardware store. If I were to have to use any sort of sealant or glue to assemble things, what would be the best selection?

Also, where and which valves would you all recommend. I've noticed Eheim valves and quick connects but have had trouble locating a stateside store and am not sure if they come in 1/2" ID. To be honest, I'm kind of lost (also kind of scared to have my design picked apart, but better to learn I guess)

Here is a schematic of the master plan (not to scale, its MSPaint. . .):


Note: I've decided not to cool the northbridge, I'm going to remove the bottom drive cage, and I may go Athlon 64 instead. Oh, and the 3/8" at the top was going to be to accomodate quick release air compressor couplings but I didn't like the idea of introducing this metal to the cooling loop. I may move the pump to the floor of the case. Also, please don't pick fun at the radiators, I am well aware of just how laughable they are, but they matched and I liked the look--My priorities may not be the same as yours.

Any help you all can give would be deeply appreciated.

Oh, one last somewhat unrelated question--is there any disadvantage to using a fan frame (fan cut out) as a shroud?

While I'm here, let me add that I don't post too often but I read here almost daily. This forum is the absolute best place on the internet for watercooling information that is accurate and relevant. I appreciate what you all do here and deeply enjoy reading the discussions (like the one right now about cheap watercooling components hurting the industry). The reason I don't add anything is because I have nothing insightful to add given the superior knowledge of the regulars. I guess this is just a long "Thank you."

Bruce
Here's my humble project log.

[bigben2k]

I don't see anything wrong. There's no airtrap, but your homemade valve contraption should be able to act as one.

PVC is best assembled with PVC glue. You do however, have the option of using threaded PVC parts, with which you can simply use teflon tape, for a not-so-permanent installation.

The PVC ball valves are going to be the cheapest, and should do the job just fine. They're also available locally. Eheim fittings are really hard to find, and by the time you do find them, you'll be shocked by the price. Cole-Parmer, John Guest carries some of these types of fittings. Many manufacturers out there, even in 1/2", they're just hard to find.

A fan frame might not let air come through the whole radiator. This isn't normally an issue, but in your case you should really aim to get maximum airflow, because it's still the most important part of the system here, for performance.

The Panaflo L1A is a quiet fan, but won't give you much airflow. Consider something more powerful, at the cost of noise, of course.

[Joe]

besides the fact that the radiator will act as an air trap far before the fittings below will.

[DrMemory]

The first time I saw this fill/drain setup was is 2002. Several pictures of a really sweet water cooled setup were posted on a German web site. I still have most of the pictures but unfortunately do not know if the are copyrighted or who they may be copyrighted to. I have also considered using this set up with 3/8" NPT brass ball valves, and tees, along with some 3/8" quick disconnects to 1/2" barbs for the inlet and outlet connections. All connections would be threaded using teflon tape to seal. The ball valves are available at your local Lowe's, and the rest of the parts are available at McMasters on the web. Total cost is about $60 with the quick disconnect connections making up about 45% of the cost.

[caxis0]

besides the fact that the radiator will act as an air trap far before the fittings below will.

Yeah, I've thought about this, what I was considering doing was running the case on it's side for the first few days and letting the fill and bleed catch the air bubbles (by making it tilt out toward the side of the case a bit. It's over complicated, but the best I could think of considering the top mounted rad.

Dr: I appreciate the detailed response!

BigBen: Thanks for the feedback, I know the L1As are quiet and slow, but one of the main priorities of this is near-silence. Once I get everything built, if the fans don't turn out to be quite as loud as the loudest components, I may "upgrade" to some medium speed fans.

Bruce

[Turbokeu]

Originally Posted by DrMemory

The first time I saw this fill/drain setup was is 2002. Several pictures of a really sweet water cooled setup were posted on a German web site. I still have most of the pictures but unfortunately do not know if the are copyrighted or who they may be copyrighted to. I have also considered using this set up with 3/8" NPT brass ball valves, and tees, along with some 3/8" quick disconnects to 1/2" barbs for the inlet and outlet connections. All connections would be threaded using teflon tape to seal. The ball valves are available at your local Lowe's, and the rest of the parts are available at McMasters on the web. Total cost is about $60 with the quick disconnect connections making up about 45% of the cost.

I did that 3-tap system already in july 2001:

Note that this is a very early stage of my actual PC-70 project.

The used taps are 3/8" PVC Eheim taps for fill & bleed, and a 1/2" PVC Eheim tap in the main loop. The PVC T's are 20mm ID. The copper tubing is 15mm OD.

Actually (after being paint) it looks like this:




CD