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General Liquid/Water Cooling Discussion For discussion about Full Cooling System kits, or general cooling topics. Keep specific cooling items like pumps, radiators, etc... in their specific forums.

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Unread 10-28-2002, 09:14 AM   #16
g.l.amour
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thx for the info !!

but my ratio tells me to just buy the damn block i want, it most be alot of trouble getting drill bits - pieces of copper, etc, prolly will end up way more expensive than normal.

c ya
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Unread 10-28-2002, 09:29 AM   #17
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Quote:
Volenti: On die cooling is critical, so redundant water supply is almost a must. I'm glad you succeeded. Did you experience any damage to the serial driven pumps, mentioned by decodediesel?
I havn't noticed any problem with these pumps, however when I was doing some rather extreme testing with 3 large pumps in a series-paralell setup I had this happen;


had 2 2000-2800L/H pumps in paralell pushing into the back of a 4000L/H pump that was trying push water through a 4mm jet (pressure test) I guess it failed the test...
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Unread 10-28-2002, 09:33 AM   #18
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prolly will end up way more expensive than normal.
LOL!!! This is ALWAYS the case, at least in my experience...but you got the satisfaction of making it yourself, and when u want to make another, even different one, you'll won't have to buy the tools you already have...but there's always another tool...
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Unread 10-28-2002, 09:41 AM   #19
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If you're worried about the flow sensor being too restrictive you can always run it after an equal Y (5/8~14mm have 12mm inner diametre for less restriction) then rejoin with another Y, that way not all the flow will be going through the sensor,enough to turn it, but not so it'll restrict flowrate...
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Unread 10-28-2002, 11:05 AM   #20
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10mm thick plates are good. do not go too deep. I'd say about 4mm on each side should give you awesome flow-rate and yet you will have turbulence and surface area to spare.

depending on the size of your block, but 4mm diameter is a good overall size. Leave at least 3mm on the sides, for sealing the block up. and before you seal it... lap the surfaces, so they fit snugly on one another. then just a minute amount of sealant, in between, and you would be surprised at the bond being formed between the plates....

of coarse, make sure you do not have any oil or dirt on the surfaces....
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Unread 10-28-2002, 02:33 PM   #21
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@Volenti: Woah, I saw that pic on another thread or on OCAU, that sure don't look pretty!!!


@MadDogMe: Thx for the tip! I'm not sure yet about the flow sensor cos' I'll have to think to fit large barbs onto it (the one I made had 9 mm ID barbs). If I don't succeed, I might just do what you suggested!

@#Rotor: Man, thank you for giving all the secrets of the trade!!! I really appriciate it, it will save me lots of trouble and experimenting!
Thank you!

I had enough free time this afternoon to draw the grid and print it on self adhesive paper, now I just have to find the workshop with the circulary metal saw thingie to cut my piece of copper to the size I need. Bottom plate 50 x 50 mm, top plate 80 x 50 mm (that's because I have one piece 80 mm wide and 400 mm long).
A note to myself: check that no capacitors are in the way on the mobo for 80 mm wide block!

I cutted some pieces of another 50 mm wide copper bar, but handsawing didn't look to pretty, more to it, the saw always managed to run not along the line I draw but little right or left...
Cutting cannot cost me much, and it will save me lots of sanding the edges to be perpendicular to the flat sides...

Thx again!
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Unread 10-28-2002, 03:40 PM   #22
g.l.amour
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damn puzzdre, u really make me want to make my blox also. not that they would be any good, but it sounds like sooo much fun!!!!

a swiftech sort of block, shouldn't be that hard to make.
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Unread 10-28-2002, 04:03 PM   #23
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damn puzzdre, u really make me want to make my blox also
C'mon m8!!! Somehow I knew that you'll get hooked up on this, LOL!!!

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not that they would be any good, but it sounds like sooo much fun!!!!
IMO, any block you made yourself will be good enough for time being. I made my first (somehow glad that I couldn't buy one already made then), it looks like this:
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Unread 10-28-2002, 04:13 PM   #24
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(can anybody enlighten me how to post a pic and then keep the writing, thx )

It works, its kinda ugly, the sides are not *exactly* perpendicular to each other, and so, and so....but I made it, it works, no leaks, etc... It's good to go forward, so now I learned more and I'm making the wc rig mk2...

Thats what I'm saying, anything you make will be good enough. It's to keep YOU satisfied.

To me, this is fun. Enjoyment. It's not to be the best, its to be part of it. Not going for breakthrough, just participating.

Go for it!!!
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Unread 10-28-2002, 04:26 PM   #25
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problem is that the more specialized it gets , the harder it is to get your stuff. the drill bits u need for that tool are prolly not found at the local diy store, nor the copper bars. no need to hurry, i will start to look out for some tools, but it would have to be a good second hand deal...


as always, u make me consider/do stuff, that i would normally hesitate to do. u evil puzzdre
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Unread 10-28-2002, 04:41 PM   #26
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Hope your gf won't kill me...

The drill bits are pretty usual, not some extra grade stuff, I used some HSS-super ones, and also cobalt coated ones, found them locally, that means they are VERY easy to find, cost about 5 euro a piece.

Copper bars, that's another story. Spent approx 2 months to find any copper thicker than 2 mm here, finally got some bus bars (transformer bus bars, used), and now I know several places where to get them. Try looking into metal scrap yards. Still dunno where to buy thicker than 10 mm and brand new...:shrug:

I bet you'll find some good quality tools (even sec. hand) there.

Still, Hope your gf won't kill me...
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Unread 10-30-2002, 04:15 PM   #27
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Well, things are gettin' better. I got that chunk of copper cutted to the 80 x 50 mm pieces, now they are at the machine shop for further work (making them flat and exact size). I'll pick them up on monday.
In the mean time I managed to cut and flatten two 40 x 40 mm pieces for the chipse block.

Chipset block will be just like #Rotor's, and I'm planning to make two cpu blocks, one like #Rotor's and one like this, yellow thingies being the copper left after drilling...
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Unread 10-30-2002, 04:52 PM   #28
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looks like a high flow, high turbulance design. i like em that way.

as i hear u talking about all the stuff that is needed, it sounds kinda expensive. although the fun factor must be enormous.

i wish i could just buy any damn block i want in belgium. all u can get is maze3 and old swifty mcw462-a/b. if thats all i can get, i will have to make my own , out of misery.
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Unread 10-30-2002, 04:59 PM   #29
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Heh, consider yoursel kinda lucky, cos' here still aint no commercial made wblocks available. Not a single one. Recently I saw the site, some guys making and selling the drilled blocks similar to mine first, and that's about it.
Lucky me, Morphling is very close.

Still, yeah, the fun part is large. Not so expensive for now. I payed for 80 x 400 mm copper chunk somewhat 6 euro on scrapyard. Cutting and making flat woul cost me further 10 - 15 euro, but I'll end up with 7 good bases for wblocks. Dremel cutting wheels, 6 pcs 2 euro. Two good drill bits, 10 euro.
For now...
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Unread 10-30-2002, 05:08 PM   #30
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well, u r doing ok then...

but if i read fixxit's posts, he's got some preeetttyyy expensive machinery, and it still doesn't look all that great.

used to sell cnc woodcrafting machinery that ranged from 100.000€ to 400.000€ now that was some funky machinery...
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