Maze 3
 

I just recently received my Maze 3, and to my dismay, it had the countersunk bolts, and it resulted in cracking.
I have decided to make a new top for the Maze 3 out of copper and I have attached the blueprints below.
I am wondering if anyone could check these figures and maybe fix them.
I also need to know what size tap I would need to use the 1/4 npt 1/2 inch barbs?
I assume I have to drill 7/16 " holes.
Would anyone know whether it would be possible to get thick copper sheets, (thick enough for the top) at the local hardware store? I live in Canada.

I also had to lap the block, as it was very concave in the center.

However, I am still satisifed with the block, as it has been machined very well, and

Thanks for your help.

Edit: I fixed the image, so this should correspond to the actual..
I can't believe I missed that.

all I know is this... the block isn't symmetrical. It must be installed with the Danger Den logo facing down. If you turn the block around, the long edge will overlap the plastic part of the ZIF socket. This tells me that the mounting holes aren't even on both sides. check their distances from the long edge to be sure.

Hey guys, my maze3 arrived a few days ago, but I've been busy with other matters (roasted mobo and xp1800+) )(*@%)(!*%(@)! but anyway. My top also had countersunk screws. The top was severely cracked. I had a radial crack that went from the bottom right countersunk screw to the right barb. The top leaks because of this.
The base of my block was flat, I checked it against an architect's slide rule, and no lapping was needed. Although the corners of my block were tapered... They slanted inwards as you went from top to bottom, which I thought was odd. DD trying to save materials?
I would offer pictures, but my computer is in such bad shape right now that I don't even have USB.
-Zoson

Del, that pic looks to be fairly accurate. ECU - thats why it's 5/16 on one side and 3/16 on the other.

Zos, really bad luck to have a Maze3 that leaks out of the box

wow. I totally didn't see that other measurement.. sorry. :shrug:

a 7/16 drilled hole is the proper size for a 1/4 npt tap...that is not a regular tap...its tapered and they are called a 1/4 pipe tap...its not a 1/4-20 standard tap

why not just take the top off and trace it on a piece of paper? lol ;)

cmon... HOW could they save materials this way?

this stuff happens when you lap blocks.. the sand paper doesnt lay PERFECTLY flat... so the very edged gets a little more worn down.

Does anyone know where i could get a 3" x 2 1/16" x 3/8" piece of copper?

look at http://www.mcmaster.com , under metals, copper, sheet, and then pick your size. You'll probably have to buy a square foot, but you can check.

do they sell copper blocks in this size at hardware stores?

and also, on the mcmaster website, I was wondering what size tap i get, the 1/4"-18 NPT or the 1/2"-14 NPT.

What is messing me up is the use of the " sign... I thought that NPT was a pipe measurement, not a size.

1/4 in NPT (Nation pipe thread)

I went to the local hardware store and picked up a 1/4-18 NF tap...
Will this work?
Edit: On further inspection, I found that it said on the tap 1/4-18 NPT, but the packaging said NF.

Anyways, onto another question.
I'm going to do this on a 1/4 piece of copper, as opposed to a 3/8 piece of lucite that dangerden used. This is because the 1/4 x 3 1/2 pieces of copper are on clearance at onlinemetals. Anyways, my question is, how deep should i go with the tap. I tried the tap out on the holes tapped in dangerden's lucite top and i found it would only go halfway until it started taking out plastic. Does this mean i should only go halfway with my tap into the copper?

Thanks for your help