Fairly easy to hit the 7-9LPM mark with the White Water and one of a number of reasonably priced pumps in a 1/2" setup and a heater-core style radiator. Fairly easy to even keep it in the 6-8LPM range with a GPU block added as well.

The WhiteWater is only $10 more than the MCW6000 for an Athlon XP block, but will you notice any difference? Most likely, no. And with the emphasis put on affordable, my vote goes to the MCW6000 (which is also why I bought one). The TDX and RBX are so close they're effectively the same as the Swiftech in my book. Depending upon which site you go to, the Swiftech and Dangerden blocks swich positions (I do have more faith in Procooling's tests though). But you won't see 1C difference one way or the other until you get up over 100W of heat from your CPU. Your rad and fan decisions will make more of an impact on temps than TDX vs MCW6000. Best bang for the buck goes to the MCW6000.

I have both a TDX and the MCW6000. The MCW6000 works a little better in my overclocked AMD64 system with a CPS750 pump than the TDX, but they're both very close. If you have a higher flow pump the TDX may be just as good. I like the 6000 because it's very good even at quite low flow rates and it's cheaper. Because the 6000 is not so flow rate sensitive I don't think it's going to make a noticeable difference whether you plumb with 3/8" or 1/2" ID hose, and the 3/8" is much easier to work with. Just out of curiosity I stuck an extra 7 foot section of 3/8" tubing in my system ( CSP750 pump, MCW6000, BI Pro II radiator), the back pressure went from 31" of water up to only 35", which if my pump is following the pressure/flow rate curves reduces the system from 80GPH to 70GPH. The 3/8" hose just doesn't contribute that much back pressure, going to 1/2" isn't going to buy you much, especially considering that MCW6000 thermal resistance only improves something like 4% if you double the flow rate from 60GPH to 120GPH.
The TDX performance deteriorates at lower flow rates. Get the MCW6000 and you get about the best performance you can get, plus you don't have to worry about using large hose and high power pumps if you don't want to.

not anymore heheh :) may i suggest doing a price search ;)

Holy thread resurrection Batman!

Also, I wouldn't want a block with an aluminum or poly top in my system, but that's just me.

I agree with you on the most part.

But let me clarify or highlight one thing with the AL topped WW.
AL topped WW is the only block - that I know of - where there's minimal contact with AL top and H2O.
Meaning, thanks to the Copper Mid Plate, since it covers the entire surface of the AL top, except the inlet and outlet holes, water is barely in contact with AL. and don't forget, the fittings are inserted in to those threaded holes, so exposure of aluminum (that's anodized ofcourse) to H2O is extremely minimal.

BTW I'm running an AL topped WW and a MCW50 GPU block in one of my systems for the last 2 yrs without any problems. Using distilled H2O w/ 15% Zerex RSC mixture as the coolant ofcourse.

As for the poly tops, I agree with you on the tapped poly tops. When a tapped poly top is used, one should avoid putting metal barbed fittings on it and wouldn't let heavy 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD x 1/8"WALL tubing hangin' from the barbs, unsupported.
Quick-Connects and 3/8"ID x 1/2"OD tubing are the best for tapped poly tops IMHO.

Any chance there'll be a copper topped WW available ever?

Little River waterblocks used to sell one I believe :evilaugh:

Doesnt someone still sell aftermarket copper tops for WW blocks?

EDIT: After searching (and then searching the internet archive) I have discovered the supplier was www.logiccooling.com (now defunct)

Archived site here:
http://web.archive.org/web/200312060...ategory_Code=W

Dont know if anyone else is making these now or if this guy is still in business despite his site being down, but I knew it did exist! :)

They're gone. They went on vacation I think, and never came back. They wanted too much for it anyway.

I think "best bang for bucks" is the diy R-Type. Simple to do (requires only a drill) and effective.
Ok it isn't a commercial block but worth consideration!!

the copper top for the white water was made by neomoses i think for a little while, but then he said he sold (or gave?) logiccooling to a friend...haven't heard much from him in a while

but then again i almost never go on overclockers anymore

if i had a powerful pump i'd get a TDX, otherwise, i'd get a mcw6000

I'd probably go with the mcw6000 w/ 3/8" tubing & the mcp350 pump instead of the mcw6002 w/ 1/2" tubing & the mcp650 pump. Although, would the mcp350 pump work well with the double heatercore @ dangerden? I've heard it restricts lots of flow.

the dd double heatcore? i don't think it's any more restrictive than any black ice or thermochill product.

you can check billa's data on thermal-management-testing.com in rad testing, i'm sure he measures a double heatercore's pressure drop compared to other units

Posted in the wrong thead - oops.

As I havent seen the Asetek Antarctica block mentioned here...
I'm using the 1/2" version with an Eheim 1048 pump and Ford Sierra Heatercore. Its excellent.
The block is highly rated, I did expect to see a mention of it here.

I get 18C above ambient at full load with an Athlon XP 2500+ clocked to 2.7GHz @ 2.0V
From calculation I'm generating around 135W of heat.
Max error on the temp is +/- 2C, so I have a worst case C/W of 20/135 = 0.148 for the whole system!

temps measured with external sensor.

Got an MCW6002 for my new A64 yesterday, it's really nice. Kudos to Bill and the lads at Swiftech for nice engineering job.

I voted for the TDX, but I have a #4 jet in mine & the brass top. My reasons for this choice:

NO corrosion risk with the brass top, aluminum isn't a good material for in a water loop. It just saves the blocks maker money.

And the TDX with the #4 jet offers better performance than with the stock jet. Should really come already installed IMO.

TDX with 2 barbs is a easier install than the WW or RBX blocks.