Think "executive order" or "royal prerogative"...for matters too consequential for discussion. An archaic concept but I guess the stern mother of moot trivial and moot debatable.

***

The algae problem seems to mainly afflict hydroponic modders - the guys with lots of immaculate clear tubing lit by grow lights. Superart pegged them. So maybe they'd go for the ultimate sterilisation boiling promises.

Better just don't glut the loop with light, IMHO.

I think the t is silent
a French thing ?

Yea, your probably right.

Kinda like Filet Mingnon.

Those crazy french...............

Thinking out loud (as usual)
If you can heat up your system to 70°C (equals the computer is turned off and the “cooler is isn’t mounted ) then why don’t go to 72°C (assuming it’s NOT a sealed loop), just do it quickly... The proteins the cells in the system will burst (don’t know the English word for kuagulera), but the plastic wont be affected that much if you are lucky due to the low heat transference in plastics...
Just remember that many spores will survive this (they are meant to survive fires)...

Adding a distiller to a watercooling loop does seem a bit:

a) overkill
b) inefficient
c) expensive
d) all of the above

I think d) is a good answer. But I think some could look at it as a challenge rather than an problem.

Thinking again...
There is a much simpler way to know that there aren’t any bacteria’s or algers or funguses in the system... don’t know why I didn’t think about this before... (And I don’t think its necessary for a sealed system with no UV-lightning if the loop is inside the case but if the water is exposed to light (UV-lights or sunlight) or open air, then there might be reason for distilling the water...

I have some fishponds (about 65 m^3 litre), and I use UVc light to kill algers (Have a 25000 lph pump)... A cheap UVc lamp cost around $30-40 with holders (my cost about $350 with some magnets that even have a warning label that says "keep as far away from the body or something like that) .. It "doesn’t" affect the flow rate nor any other parts (the light is almost sealed inside due to absorption)...

Edit: With this type of rig the only additives that should be required is anti corrosion

UVc and UVb bulbs are dangerous. I looked into it for another non-computer related project I was planning. It's not just your every day bling-bling black light. And a "reptile bulb" will not priduce enough radiation to have any effect. Even a not-so powerful UV light can cause burns and eye injury in a matter of minutes.

True, when implimented properly with all necisary safety precautions taken, it is perfectly safe. However, I wouldn't trust the average forum reader with such a task

Also, there are other non-safety considerations that need to be aken into account.

First, heat. Industrial/scientific UV bulbs of this nature produce a good amount of heat. This heat will radiate into your case and into your water.

Second, corrosion. UVb and UVc bulbs are very corrosive. One of the things they are used for is to simulate decades of sun exposure on paint in a matter of weeks, days, or even hours. You will need to replace our tubing periodicly, as well as figure out a way to shield your components from the radiation.

EDIT:same as below

I know that they are dangerous (why do you think I use them :D ), and no I don’t think the average forum reader should try to install it ether...

But you are wrong about the replacement of tubing; the light is restricted to a double walled quart glass tube, the very nature of UVc makes the UVc react within the tube...
A 6 watt increase in the system won’t mater that much (in my cases about 4-5% more heat, but with my radiator that won’t make a different to the water temperature to the CPU... Link to a 6W UVc light for £30.60 + Vat

oh, cool. I didt know they made products like that. that would work.

Do you know how that would effect flow rate? It said the thing uses a turbulator, how much restriction does that entail?

I have no idée, it’s a bit hard (and unnecessary) to measure the flow from a 25000 lph pump that just circulate pond water…
The inside of mine (Biotron 25) has a fairly free flow design, but the water has to make two 90° turns, that aren’t that nice.
But since most of the pumps that’s are used for ponds and aquariums have a lot higher flow rate than WC systems the interior of the lights holders should be over dimension for our use...

your using an pond pump for w/c?? hehe, cool. overkill much?

Well in a way I’m using a pond pump (or aquarium), an Hydor L30 (witch will be fitted with a dimmer tomorrow in an attempt to lower the sound)
And I don’t recommend anyone to try to use a 25000lph pump for the w/c-system (2" tubes and 500 Watt heat load)...

I did have an idée when I started with w/c, if I should use my unused wheel (deep hole in the ground with water) to get an system to my server just to lower the temps with out an radiator… however I need the heat inside as we are going towards the winter…

Hello Everyone,


Has anyone used a product called "Cidex" made by Johnson & Johnson? It is basically Glutaraldehyde or look Here When I worked in Surgery, the technicians soaked fragile instruments I owned in Cidex.

How do you think this would work in a w/c system ?

Thanks
Monnie

Interesting, but does it degrade and produce any precipitates? It says it works well for fragile instruments, but any bacteriacide is aggressive against *something*. How well does it leave copper alone? Long-term use at 80F may cause it to become less effective over time. How long? Etc...

Need more info.