Then all you will get is one large channel down the middle. If you take 2 3/8" NPT threaded connectors and put them side by side you get almost the whole width of the block. Dosn't leave room for channels!!! You anly have 2" to work with vertically!!!

Also if you are going to do that a chiller would be better.

2x 172w use 288w each. So thats 576w, and the rest is for the cpu

I always thought 172W ment 172watts max? How can you get 288watts out of it? And why would you put 2 pelts of that size on a CPU? You can only get them so cold.

172w is how much it can cool, it actually uses 288w

I asked Joe if he wanted to review the Aluminum and Copper versions, so if he agrees I will send them to him when ever my Copper stock arrives:rolleyes: . I will go hit all the metal yards up tomorrow to see ifthey have any laying around. My main supplier is waiting for their shipment which in turns makes me wait.

I want to do the Aluminum and the Copper blocks together so you all will have a better idea that Copper is not that much better than Aluminum!!!:D

I'm sure you can fit them... Anyway discussed it a bit with brad in pro/chat and I have an idea now, could do with a bit of 15mm copper tube though...

yeah I doubt Cu is much better than Al, but it would depend to a certain amount on each design.

ie on one block the differance might be 1.2C, on another it may be 4.3C

If I could fit them I would be using them. I will show pics of why this design will not be able to go over a 1/4" NPT thread. I designed these block for plain water cooling though. I didn't think about pelts at the time. I will come up with something for pelts.

yeah, a pelt block should incorporate a different channel design then a straight water cooled design, especially if using 2 pelts, the center inlet is useless. perhaps a v-tuned style block would be best for 2 pelts?? then barb size is no problem what so ever.

Good point. Yeah a V-tuned might be the way to go. I will come up with something.

just read the review, V-tuned not that great, but a doudle sized version of the maze1c with barbs on either side of the block I think would work quite nicely.

In other words, a maze2.2 without the center inlet and simplified maze passages. I'd still like to see the 6 bolt cold plate too.

Yeah i seen that review aswell. I think I can come up with something that supports 1/2" NPT barbs and still cool well. If you are cooling a hot pelt or 2 I can see why one would want bigger fittings. Thanks for the input guys.

Joe agreed to review the blocks and my metal should be here Friday or Monday so I will send them out the day after the metal gets here. I can get Aluminum easy as everyone stocks it locally, but Copper is special order everywhere.

Thanks for the input and ideas guys.

1/2" NPT is a bit big for 1/2" ID tubing - 3/8" gives you a 10mm bore roughly, you can't get much bigger without making the walls of the barb section too thin. If you're going for 5/8" or even 3/4" tubing though 1/2" NPT is the way to go.

Is there really any reason to go bigger than 1/2" ID tubbing with the small pumps being used? The in/outlets usually are not any bigger than 1/2". So I can't see using anything bigger than 1/2" ID tubbing. Correct me if I am wrong.

yeah, no point going over 1/2"at all.

another thing I have thought about is having two 172w pelts, one big coldplate, and 2x maze1c1's to cool them, you could do an 8 bolt design that way, and I can see it working really well overall

Will a maze1c take a 48mm pelt? :)
You would presumably do parallel running for them, with y-splitters?

OK latest mad plan is dual Z3s (easier to get than maze1c) modded up a bit and fitted for dual 220W tecs :D Single coldplate. 8 bolts for mounting. The thing should kick :D

I just had a thought, instead of using the threads for the barbs, how about not using the barbs at all and just soldering on a couple peices of 1/2 Copper pipe instead? That would get rid of the NPT 1/4" problem.

Then I could run 2 40mm pelts on that block. I am still not sure about center bolts though. I will look into that. i am sure you all want to tighten them pelts down so the heat/cold transfer is at it's best.

butch, thats plain BS and we both know it, you want the Z3 cause it came top. :P

what I'd do is this:

http://brad.procooling.com/for%20butch.jpg

obviously it isn't done to scale, but you get the idea.

note, I don't have permission for any of those pics, petsmart for the danner pump, procooling for the z3's, and liquidcool.org for the rad.

the other way would be this:

http://brad.procooling.com/for%20butch2.jpg

jaydee, I'd do 15mm copper pipe then, at least on the outside of the block, simply so the 1/2" tubing will get a damned tight grip on it

yeah, best idea yet, 15mm pipe!! that way, I could run 5/8" fitting on everything else (1/2" silicon tubing will stretch over) so I have 0 restriction in my fittings!!

Yeah I see what you are saying. I will try this out when I get my Copper stock in.

No it's not - check www.tekheads.co.uk they don't sell maze1c's

I was planning on the first option, dual rads would be too damn huge :)

hehe, unless you go to dual black ice or something like that. Maybe you could find two smallish heatercores.

so when are you getting the z3's, and pelts anyway butch?