I like it, keep working on it.!!!

If the inlet isn't on the impeller area then centrifical/centrifugal forces (which don't exist, it's just a way of looking at a lack of centripetal forces (I hate referance frames)) will push the water back the way it comes as much as it pushes it the way it goes. So no net effect. I can't quite tell from the pic but there does seem some overlap of inlet and chamber, am I correct? That should allow it to work, though more overlap is always better, less back forces, that's why pumps have the inlet on the impeller axis. I love your second design, turbulent water right in.

Edward

The next step is to make one and see if it works Like I want it too.

anyone have an old processor they want to donate to the cause? I have everything else, just need a processor. I will prolly get the tool paths and g code done tomarrow, and see if I cant atleast get the block milled. making the impellar is gonna be a bit more challenging i think.

Fut,

the revision of the first block will have the water inlet overlapping the impellar alot, I didnt want to put a top on the block because then you could not see in, it will also be angled to give more overlap. I cannot have it over the impellar axis because I need a way to drive the impellar. But from talking with people, and doing a bit of homework, I do beleive it will work, I also need to have a res in the system about 3 times the volume of the block. This will be tested both ways to make certain I do in fact need it, I am hoping not to need it.

A couple of ideas to throw at you Fixittt, if you use a right angled hose connector directly above the impeller axis, and seal the drive shaft as it runs through the side of the connector, that should work (sealing will be a bitch though) which leads to my second thought...

This idea also let's the intake of the block be directly over the impeller axis, and eliminates the sealing problem, allthough it does involve using a top mounted res, but it doesn't need to very large .

Have the impeller in the block driven by a long spring, it can run up the hose to the bottom of the res positioned at the top of the system, the spring then can be driven by a 12v motor sitting on top of the res, safely out of the water with next to no chances of leakes:)

Idealy the block intake to res hose shouldn't be too long and should have a nice even curve to minimise wear.

fix, have you thought about maybe having the rotor unpowered, and seeing what that does to it?

I know this is kind off topic, but your thread (with the spinning pump) got me thinking about it. What would happen if you put a fan on top of a spiral block, spinning the same direction as a spiral?

Also, how about this: a copper heatsink with a plain circle cut out, then a real-low friction fan-like thing (fins and all but no motor, and attached to the bottom of the heatsink). Then put the inlet next to the outlet and make sure the fins seal -really- good against the edges. Wouldn't the fan-like thing spin around and still give good surface area and flow rate?

I don't know what the hell would happen with those two ideas, but I think it'd be pretty fun to find out =]

The problem with doing that to the spiral is the centre inlet, you'd have to work around that

I have looked into that, and it can be done, but would be a pain in da hiney!