neeeeed temps! .. if you did take temps what pump would you be using? and i wouldnt be surprised if they both performed within a couple of degrees to one and other.. too close for the innacuracies of the test... they are both great blocks
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One thing though, acrylic will bend if put under pressure for extended periods. That's from experience.
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blocks look great
i was running this stuff http://24.218.62.119/web/case/chille...rth_blocks.jpg http://24.218.62.119/web/case/cpu_shoot.jpg then i riped them apart cleaned them up REAL good sorry i dont hav pics and they never leaked i used a clear epoxy and they dryed clear dont rember the name of the stuff i used and i beat the hell out of them and they are still good the only reson they are not in used is becase i am out of time to move w/c into my new case and i am to $$$$ tyed up in to car audio right now for computer stuff |
marco, thats what I'm worried about, you need 6 bolts or more to make me sure the acrylic won't bend
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In the spirit of sharing. =)
Here is my experience, take it for what its worth. I chose to use a silicon adeasive sealent with a nutrual cure. The top is Polycarbonate and UV stabalized (just incase of dylite and UV lights). I considered the o-ring approach however this is what I found. The polycarbonate will flex even although it is .250 thick, when 25psi of pressure is given to the block. Now, this should not be an issue unless you have a killer pump, but if you do have such a pump be aware of this and test the block at full pressure OUTSIDE your PC. By using the screws and silicon adheasive, I am able to create a bond that withstands higher pressures than an o-ring alone. I have been testing this setup for about 6 months now and have not had any problems. Peter. |
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Thanks Peter!!! |
question for all u acrylic gods...how the hell do i get these barbs to say in this acrylic...they keep popin out of my air trap when i go to put tubing on...wuz using silicon and it aint working...wnat to keep it clear as possible for looks....
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Hey Haddy,
Well the NPT thread, as you know, is tapered. So the 1st thing to know is how far down you must screw the fitting before it begins to engage the thread. On our tops, the engagement is very deep so that the fittings sit squarely on the top AND so that people don't over tighten the fittings and lift the top. I have experimented with several leaking proofing items. IMO the good old pipe tape is the best. Simply make a few extra wraps to help 'tighten' up the thread a bit. If the threads are at the proper depth, one or two wraps makes a seal that can't be turned by hand. One last tip is to NEVER put the tubing on dry and NEVER turn the tubing CCW when pushing it on. Wet the end and it will slide on easily. Hope that helps. |
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Warning Newbie Watercooler Post!
Few questions
Will the spir@l (not gemini) have that DTek logo on the acrylic or will it be flat/clear like the gemini's? What are O-rings, how do they protect better against leakage? What are those bars ppl are talking about? sorry for new newbie questions, i'll be setting up my first watercooled system and want to learn the lingo and how everything works. BTW, the spir@l is huge! Need tests!! thanks :) |
Re: Warning Newbie Watercooler Post!
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those bars I assume are barbs, which is what the hose connect to on the waterblock. I think all the new Spirals have the DTEK logo on them. You maybe able to get a plain top through Fixittt though. |
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