Sweet. Whaddya think VIPER??





VIPER??????







heeeelllllllllllooooooooooooooo??????







It's too easy to amuse myself. :rolleyes:

But the only thing is running both into the geforce block thats going to reduce to flow to cpu. My gf block only flows 190 gph. That will cause to much back pressure, and not enough to cpu. If I split out of pump to rads then one to cpu and one to gf block. Then out of both blocks back to pump. I think that would be better. But Chazz469 has a good idea also. But I would switch to the upper rad first then through cpu and so on. I will try both ways and see which way flows better. Thanks for all the info.

I will post results saturday afternoon.


V

You have a point about the GPU block. But the CPU block could be more restrictive, do you know the GPH for that one? I know for the MAZE3 it's supposed to be like 165gph, which is less than your GPU (obviously). Also the water coming from your CPU would be considerably warmer than coming from you GPU. Can't wait for your test results. I would like to see which configuration works the best in actual application.

I just test fitted the hoses to the blocks and bigben you where right. The upper radiator needed to be turn over, because out of the reservoir to the upper rad it would kink anyway I tried. Now it goes straight in with about 10" of tubing.

Yes I do know the flow of the Spir@l block. It flowed a gallon of water in 14 seconds. Thats about 257gph.


Just wanted to say you guys rock.




:eek:

I changed the name BB!

Actually, I'm the one that suggested turning the top rad upside down, but you're welcome;)

I'd leave the blocks in series, but I'd feed the CPU block first. Alternatively, you could run the blocks in parallel too, and clamp down the feed to the GPU, so that the CPU block gets more flow, because it needs it more than the GPU, and because it's more restrictive, so you have to compensate for that that way.

Air-Trap
 

Nice dual rad set-up

What about an in-line airtrap, the highest point in your configuration is the expel rad.

The most logical position would be ontop from the pump outlet.
:) Mat

Re: Air-Trap
 

Huh? What are you talking about?

Yeah give credit where credit is due. ;) Good fix VIPER.

Anyhow, what were your testing results? It seems like the combo parallel/serial would work best....logically, but logic doesn't always reflect practical application. One reason I'm asking is because I'm thinking about adding another RAD and eventually a GPU and chipset block. So I'm curious what configuration you have the most success with.

257 gph is pretty shit hot for a water block, but I think that the amount that the CPU would heat up the water would be considerable enough that it would be a better idea to go to the GPU first.

If you need any help documenting and/or graphing your resuls email me at the [Hard]10 . I'll be glad to help.

Hey All. Had some stuff come up and didn't get to test like I wanted to. I did get the pump and all hoses in, but no testing yet.
I will try sometime this week.




V

What kind of radiators do you have?

I got most of my water cooling equipment from D-Tek Customs

VIPER, keep us updated with pics!! its such a nice design

Yeah! Air Trap
 

Chazz it's only a suggestion :)
Viper - The layout has a rad at the highest point in the system!

http://www.procooling.com/articles/a...-team-wc11.gif

Turning the Top rad around will certainly improve things, but it will not prevent your Top rad acting as an air-trap.

This could be solved by raising the water level of the pump/res.
By having a res at the top (of the case p'raps ) this will also provide an ideal bleed/refill point. You can also visually monitor your water level in this way.

http://www.procooling.com/articles/a...-team-wc13.gif
Yeah I know it's not a dual set-up but I fink it explains what I'mm gettin @

IMHO A simple yet very effective design "tweak" - to actively remove air bubbles in the top Rad.
(the last place U want 'em)

Hope that's helpfull
Mat :)

Re: Yeah! Air Trap
 

Didn't mean to come off the wrong way. I wasn't fully sure what you were talking about. The images, and another discussion in another thread, helped a little. But I'm still not sure that I uderstand how the air escapes, or if it's supposed to. Is it just supposed to get caught in there so that it doesnt end up in your system??

Here my rig basics...that should suffice, right?
http://members.cox.net/webmaster-cch/images/rig1.JPG

i think he's saying that you should have your radiator in the lower section of your computer. Where it is right now, up top, the hot air will build up and the heat exchange of the radiator would suffer .... i think, i'm new to this stuff.

I am still here!
 

My res. had a crack in it. So I had to make a new one. Just got it back together and got some different fittings from grainger today.
What a pain in the ass to find special fittings. I will post some pics of the new res when done. Looks good. I just got my 2100xp retail in yesterday from Ubid. I got the cpu for 150 bucks. You can't bet that. I wasn't going to buy a new chip but for that price I couldn't go wrong. I got to get back to work it's been over a hour but nobody is looking anyway. I think I am getting sick. I need to go home. (work on computer) HA HA
:D

Chazz - Yep,
http://www.procooling.com/articles/h....shtml#H2OCool (A must read in my opinion)

Nice diagram
The ideal set-up would be an inline air-trap similar to this -

This is intended to be the highest point in your system - good example
http://www.cooling-solutions.de/foru...clocker/b7.jpg
Notice how the inlet is under the water level (bubbles rise) water free of bubbbles goes outa the bottom outlet. continuously actively purging the entire system. Looks Kool too :drool:
U could easily mod a res/pump to get the same effect, or even fix a partition into the side of the vessal to prevent bubbles gettin sucked down back into the loop.

Viper what are you makin the res out of?
Mat

matster, have any other pictures of your system? Looks like a sweet design.

I especially like the brass (or whatever metal) cuff at the top of your res. Nice touch....

http://members.cox.net/webmaster-cch/images/b72.jpg

I am useing 5/16 lexsand. I got some special glue to put it together. I have used the stuff alot on my rc boats in the past.
It's 5-1/2" square, with the pump mounted inside. It fit's inside above my 3-1/2. I tested the res last night works great. (No Leaks). I also mounted the pump on rubber so the pump would run silent. I just have to hook it up to my relay and do some testing for flow.


Your rig looks great. Nice work!:eek:

I wish I could take the credit but it ain't my system......

But if ya think that looks Kool - Just watch this space!

who's is it?

:drool: wow :drool

Hey I am still alive.
 

I havebeen running into problems with the mod and working to much to get anything done. I plan on working on it this weekend.
My res didn't work very well. Had leaks and tried to repair and just got fedup with it. So started all over on the res and pump placement in case. So that means new res and new mount for pump. I will keep in touch with yall.


Later V

Im Back
 

Sorry for the delay on the testing but shit happens. Here is a new pic of my rig. Let me know if yall see anything that needs to be changed. The battery is for testing the relay that is mounted behind the pump. I am waiting on my round cables. Just got my reostat controller in yesterday from Crazypc. I tested it last night. This thing rocks. The leds are very bright. Control on the fans is great. I am getting about 115 to 120 gph out of the system with everything. Not to shabby. I haven't run the complete system to check temps, but that's coming.
The only thing I changed on the geforce block (D-Tek) was the 1/2" 90 deg. fittings. I replaced them with 5/8" barbed 90s. Atleast they 1/2" ID.



http://image1.villagephotos.com/pubi...9154&uid=25620