You have a very good touch with the 3D work.

If you really want to try the clear top, may I suggest you use Lexan over other plexis, it's stiff stuff. May prevent the flexing that BladeRunner is warning you of. 1/4-3/8" thickness?

I really wouldnt worry about both sides looking the same, In my mind making the back have extra stuff on it is pointless, Just make it what it needs to be and it can be a pretty cool block. I would just say use what you need and no more.

Jon

Right, and will save a good deal of weight. May not matter now, but will work in a tower if you ever need it to.

Once you see the final project you wil see why I care about what both sides look like.

As I always love playing in trueSpace here is a nice assembly video:

Video 427KB

very, very nice CAD work there. one thing that I see is that if you are worried about the middle of the "cap" bowing up, is you can add a couple of screws to it...even right over the GPU. All you need to do is add a couple of big pins, large enough to accomidate a small o-ring with a tapped hole in the middle. Even one screw in the middle could make a world of difference.

I have to agree that your 3-D modeling is excellent. :D

One item... the countersunk cap screw holes will allow the top plate to fall off unless you Solder the outer cover plates to the main passage plates. I recommend soldering as it gives the most permenant and reliable seal of ANY of the methods mentioned in this thread.

Soldering the plates allows you to do some very nice cleanup and polish without taking a chance on breaking your seal. If you do find a pinhole leak somewhere... just submerge the rest of the unit in water and heat just that area and flow in some more solder, then proceed to clean up again.

Then you can use your cap screws for controlling your mounting pressure on the card instead of trying to use them to seal the blocks and potentially cracking your card or ICs. :eek:

I think that both the front and back blocks look about twice as thick as they need to be to cool this card. But I could be wrong... :p

Yes, the top will be soldered on.
If I go with acrylic I will add seperate screws just to hold the acrylic on.

The copper is thick (1.2cm including top cap) but I wanted a 8mm high channel, as I am not sure how large of a pump I will be able to fit into this project.

--------

I am designing my Athlon 64 FX51 Block right now, a new thread on that coming up....

That thing is gonna be so darn heavy...I cant wait to see it though. It is gonna look like a single giant waterblock, you wont be able to tell whats underneath it :D

Big and heavy I don't mind, it will sort of fit the style of the case I am designing.

looks very nice, but wayyyyyyy to much copper, especially on the back.

im quite nervous with my card, and thats just a 9700pro with a maze4gpu.

get rid of everything you dont need.

That's, like.... uhmmm, the coolest thing i've ever seen w\ respect to waterblocks!

Sorry for off-topic:

JFettig, can you draw me an image with AutoCAD based on the geforcefxdim.jpg? I just can't scale the pic to the background and that makes a heck of a problem. I would need the holes, mem chips and the core on the right place.

On-topic:

ZapWizard, some really cool images! :drool:

I hope to see that "realtime raytraced" soon ;)

Nope, I dont have the images either. If zapwizard could just send me something I can import to autocad, like the drawing of the card It would help.

Jon

It's unfinished, but not sure if its any use, I'd mapped out the card, (5900U) GPU / Ram and all card holes in the reference, (creative make).

If you view the large linked image in paint, (and zoom to large scale), the card is scaled as 1 pixel = 0.1mm divided by 2

http://www.zerofanzone.co.uk/picture...cardspecs1.gif

JFettig, looks like I don't need it after all. I got some graph paper and printed out that geforcefxdim.jpg (can be found at: http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=8412, bigben2k's 3rd post). The image is almost 1:1, just some really tiny differences, so I think that the error margin is very little. Just have to draw the block now, and need to find a guy who can translate that image into an AutoCAD drawing.

It's only a matter of money, it costs me less if the image is in electronic form. The guy who actually manufactures the block for me, needs to input the coordinates from the paper to the CNC mill instead of importing acad file.

Let's see what I can do :).

@ BladeRunner : Can you give 1:1 picture here please.

I am planing to do WB for my 5900LX and i would need 1:1 picture. If you have it.

Tnx

I don't have a autocad file for the card, but I do have a COB file.
(trueSpace3 format) trueSpace3 is a free download, you can use it to export my file to what ever you need.

5950 Card COB File

BTW, this looks like a go.
I am getting my hands on some copper, and I have access to a manual milling machine.

So it looks like this will end up hand milled like Bladerunner's block.

I have TS3. But the scene is empty?

bladerunner, do you have something similar to that but from the 9800 reference?

ahem i posted the original 5900 dim image :D

those are directly from nvidia ;) so dim are about as perfect as you can get let me look around for the CAD file

EDIT: I think this is it ftp://www.brandtshaft.com/dima/geforcefx5900dim.dwg

dima v, that's JUST THE ONE i've been looking for! Thank you very much! I really appreciate this. And sorry for that jpg image poster information ;)

Now... let's get to work, there's a waterblock waiting for manufacturing!

Some history....... I was sent some original images from Gainward under NDA when I was working on the CoolFx project. They were of an earlier 5900u rev that was about an inch longer than the final card. I completely rescaled the dimensions I got as they were in a weird points on a graph type scaling that wasn't much use to me.

As Gainward couldn't source me a real card at the time to use I printed out the image continually modifying the size until I eventually got it to match the gold fingers of a real AGP card. It was a rough way to do it, but from that printed image I made this fake card:-

http://www.zerofanzone.co.uk/project...y_card005s.jpg

I used this fake card to help design and make a cooler, (that is linked too at the beginning of this thread). The whole CoolFx project moved on and went in another direction with Innovateks input. It was pleasing to later find I got my fake card pretty close as the heatsinks from the Creative card fitted my dummy :p

I then recently mapped that image in my previous post directly from an FX 5900U retail version, (Creative boxed). It was all measured out by hand using Snap-on digital callipers, and the measurements divided by 2 (this was simply because it would have been to huge on my screen at 1 pixel per 0.1mm.). To see it pixel by pixel you need to look at the linked image (not the displayed image), View it in MS Paint- view - zoom - large size. To finish it I'll put mm measurements from the top and back edge to locate all hole centres and chip positions. I plan to do this to 9800 Pro sometime but its still being used atm, and it takes some time to do, is quite tedious, (needs double checking etc).

I guess what people want is a print outable diagram true card size. I can't see this is possible as it will depend on pixel size of the screen the image is displayed on and or the printer it's printed out on.

I think the best way, (assuming its possible), is to laser map the card on a high quality CNC or something similar, but I don't have such facilities....... yet :D

Okay... I got two pics, from early stage of the block.

http://koti.mbnet.fi/fiiu/misc/blocktop.jpg
http://koti.mbnet.fi/fiiu/misc/blockbottom.jpg

This design is inspired by Bladerunner and ZapWizard, and it might really look like it was totally ZapWizard's design ;)

Hope the images work with you, it would be nice to receive some feedback. Good, bad or the ugly one.

The 1.6mm step is not made yet, got to work it out at the weekend.

i would pair the memory chips together so there is no "channel" between the each pair of chips

PDF is not perfect, but can get prety darn close iirc.