ur post gave me a headache lol
but i understood most of it. so im going to ask. if i get a procore j-120 and ditch the zchip chipset block. will it do any better? also i got an idea off of another forum. what if i used a splitter so my line goes to my cpu and my vga then splitter them back together to go to the resevoir. so i dont get the heat from my cpu onto my vga. |
I have exactly the same loop config except for the radiator and get about the same temps.After switching from a large triple rad to two single heatercores my temperaute dropped by 3C.I would also suggest to get a heatercore and ditch the nb block. :)
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well so far thats like 10,000 for ditching the chipset block lol.
but im having conflicting thoughts on the radiator. im going to work with it a lil til payday and see how it goes. if im still getting heat i will go with a j-120 as i hear*read* good things bout them. |
Yes it will do better, I think it is the main limit on the system. How much I dunno. A review you might wanna read HERE and HERE The second one shows the c/w for the block somewhat lower than JoeCs review. Unfortunaly most manufacturers do not provide much of the needed info on their products and testing is difficult so differant reviews may show completely different numbers due to lack of expertise and or test procedures. I would loose the chipset block, if you want beter cooling there get a MicroCool or similar product. It is not worth the added restriction on the loop.
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kool ty so much.
i allready have my system stripped and ready to be put back together. so im going to do some fooling round and see whats my best. i had an mcx159+ on my n/b but it was crap even compared to the stock passive cooler. :shrug: so im going to put the stock one back on til i get a crystal orb. :) p.s. hydrx/water wetter is the nastiest tasting crap on earth... and ive tasted anti-freeze... it tastes like sugar water compared to the other crap LOL |
I read and re-read where it was suggested that you put a breeze on the cpu, however, I missed the part where you did that.
Its my understanding that the air cooled cpu's move the hot air away from the thermistor that measures temp for the cpu. Placing a fan (to test) on the cpu area to move the stagnant air. If the cpu temp drops by a 2-4C from doing this, the mobo sensor is picking up the unmoved accumilated air around and under the cpu. Record the temp change. This amount can be removed from your watercooling temps as an error correction. I am wondering where your 2 fans are that normally are placed near that empty space above your video card and to the left of your cpu. |
i did do that with an 80mm fan and for some reason my temps went up. :shrug:
i have 2x80mm case fans above my video. u just cant see them. i moved them to outside my case. go to my gallery in my sig and u can see what i did. |
I've tested both 947U w/ 92mm Tornado fan at 50% and Dangerden Maze4 on same system. The difference between air temperature and CPU diode temperature for the 947U/92mm Tornado@50% was 24.9C. The difference in water temperature and CPU diode temperature for the Maze4 at 0.5GPM flow rate (a LOW value) was 16.5C. So for the water cooling setup to do worse than air, your water temperature would have to be ~8.5C over room temperature. That's certainly possible with smallish radiators and quiet fans. The fact that increasing airflow through the radiators did very little to temperatures is disturbing though. Makes me suspect a faulty CPU temp reading more than anything else...
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P.S. If you have everything outside the case, SHAKE that radiator and see if air comes out. They still need bleeding even when upright! Air in the rad will lower surface area for cooling a lot and the BI Micro2 doesnt have a ton to start with. I've used 2x BI Micros in parallel though and performance is better than any air cooling still.
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how would i go about getting all the air out? just to be positive.
should i fill up the rad seperately and force it or what? |
Dealing with trapped air - the lazy man's approach.
Easiest way though you needed to make sure EVERYTHING is clamped tight. (doubly sure this could cause a leak) Constrict the tubing (i.e. squeeze it) for a few seconds were it leaves the radiator, and release. If there is air trapped you will hear gugglings and air bubbles should come shooting out. Repeat. There is physics behind that but its 4:42am and I'm tired so you'll just have to believe me. Slowely but surely you should start to collect any trapped air in your res - which you will then top up. |
i tilted my case every which way other then flipping it, pinched the hose, shook it like a bad martini, tapped on the hose like a heroin needle. lol
nothing. :shrug: im letting it run now til the morning to get all those lil ones out and then im going to boot it up. i put it pump->cpu->vga->radiator->resevoir. and i can tell u one thing. since i ditched that damn chipset block, i could tell the water was running wayyyyyyyyy faster. so it was definetly the restricting force in my system. now lets see if the rad holds up. again ty to all who helped me. |
I also have the Maze 4 CPU block and here's my results:
The Maze 4 CPU block needs very high flow rates to get good results. I had a very low restricted setup consisting of 1/2in ID tubing, LRS120 radiator from JP, Maze 4 CPU block, Via Aqua 375 GPH pump, and I used a T instead of a res. Since this was a very low restrictive setup, the Via pump was working very well and I was getting load temps of 43C at 2.03V at 30C case temps! Then I decided to get the MCP600 pump because my Via was just too loud, the MCP600 puts out much less heat, I planned on adding a GPU block and replacing my Maze4 CPU block with a better block (all the better blocks are alot more restrictive than the Maze4). After replacing my Via with the MCP600, my CPU load temps went up to 46C (maybe higher). I knew the MCP600 wasn't pumping water as fast as the Via because of how fast the bubbles were moving while I was bleeding. Quote:
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DangerDen is dead right now...
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