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But let me clarify or highlight one thing with the AL topped WW. AL topped WW is the only block - that I know of - where there's minimal contact with AL top and H2O. Meaning, thanks to the Copper Mid Plate, since it covers the entire surface of the AL top, except the inlet and outlet holes, water is barely in contact with AL. and don't forget, the fittings are inserted in to those threaded holes, so exposure of aluminum (that's anodized ofcourse) to H2O is extremely minimal. BTW I'm running an AL topped WW and a MCW50 GPU block in one of my systems for the last 2 yrs without any problems. Using distilled H2O w/ 15% Zerex RSC mixture as the coolant ofcourse. As for the poly tops, I agree with you on the tapped poly tops. When a tapped poly top is used, one should avoid putting metal barbed fittings on it and wouldn't let heavy 1/2"ID x 3/4"OD x 1/8"WALL tubing hangin' from the barbs, unsupported. Quick-Connects and 3/8"ID x 1/2"OD tubing are the best for tapped poly tops IMHO. |
Any chance there'll be a copper topped WW available ever?
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Little River waterblocks used to sell one I believe :evilaugh:
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Doesnt someone still sell aftermarket copper tops for WW blocks?
EDIT: After searching (and then searching the internet archive) I have discovered the supplier was www.logiccooling.com (now defunct) Archived site here: http://web.archive.org/web/200312060...ategory_Code=W Dont know if anyone else is making these now or if this guy is still in business despite his site being down, but I knew it did exist! :) |
They're gone. They went on vacation I think, and never came back. They wanted too much for it anyway.
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I think "best bang for bucks" is the diy R-Type. Simple to do (requires only a drill) and effective.
Ok it isn't a commercial block but worth consideration!! |
the copper top for the white water was made by neomoses i think for a little while, but then he said he sold (or gave?) logiccooling to a friend...haven't heard much from him in a while
but then again i almost never go on overclockers anymore if i had a powerful pump i'd get a TDX, otherwise, i'd get a mcw6000 |
I'd probably go with the mcw6000 w/ 3/8" tubing & the mcp350 pump instead of the mcw6002 w/ 1/2" tubing & the mcp650 pump. Although, would the mcp350 pump work well with the double heatercore @ dangerden? I've heard it restricts lots of flow.
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the dd double heatcore? i don't think it's any more restrictive than any black ice or thermochill product.
you can check billa's data on thermal-management-testing.com in rad testing, i'm sure he measures a double heatercore's pressure drop compared to other units |
Posted in the wrong thead - oops.
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As I havent seen the Asetek Antarctica block mentioned here...
I'm using the 1/2" version with an Eheim 1048 pump and Ford Sierra Heatercore. Its excellent. The block is highly rated, I did expect to see a mention of it here. I get 18C above ambient at full load with an Athlon XP 2500+ clocked to 2.7GHz @ 2.0V From calculation I'm generating around 135W of heat. Max error on the temp is +/- 2C, so I have a worst case C/W of 20/135 = 0.148 for the whole system! temps measured with external sensor. |
Got an MCW6002 for my new A64 yesterday, it's really nice. Kudos to Bill and the lads at Swiftech for nice engineering job.
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I voted for the TDX, but I have a #4 jet in mine & the brass top. My reasons for this choice:
NO corrosion risk with the brass top, aluminum isn't a good material for in a water loop. It just saves the blocks maker money. And the TDX with the #4 jet offers better performance than with the stock jet. Should really come already installed IMO. TDX with 2 barbs is a easier install than the WW or RBX blocks. |
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