lol yeah. Inside joke.


Back to my original post thats sort of OT in this forum now (sorry =\ ) yeah I just read a review of that super flower and the 12v dips a good ... Gonna look around for others when I actually figure out what I want to buy. No tumwater boards are out that Id like. Plus I wanna get moved in and a DLP FP first :D
I'll look for some qualit 350-400s in the 60-70$ range so I spend around 150$ total rather than 220$ for a single quality one from PC P & C...

edit---

Just as an FYI if anyone else is looking for silent PSU's with really tight rails, just spent an hour reading through the reviews and threads over at silentpcreview about the seasonic super PSUs. A couple of super tornado 350s look pretty nice to me :D

Tom's Hardware has several good reviews of PSUs. The 300W Seasonic super tornado is in the latest one (Jan. 22, 2004) and it scored well. Based on the specs for the 300W version, and assuming you'd get a couple more amps on the 12V of the 350W unit, I'd say a couple of the 350W versions should work for you.

What really attracts me to those PSUs is that
#1 their rails are very tight, always +/- 2% and on avg +/- 1% (SPCR Review)
#2 the A3 Revision (the one that newegg sells) has min and max efficiency of 78% and 82%
#3 its said to be very quiet =)

I gave up trying to pick out a quiet PSU. They're all underpowered or overpriced. I was going to get a SilenX, because they are so solidly built AND have active PFC, but to get one with a reasonable amount of power it was just too much money. Sure, it would like never die, but I couldn't shell out that much for a power supply. Instead I just ordered an Ultra X-Connect 500W PSU. The rails are pretty solid and best of all, the cables are all presleeved and completely modular. And it's cheaper than the Antec NeoPower by about $30, which doesn't come with proper sleeving and isn't as modular. It might only be 480W too. I'm gonna swap out the dual 80mm fans the Ultra comes with for some quieter ones and make it it's own cold air intake.

Now Im thinkin of just watercooling my PC p&c 510XE... tightest rails around and dead silent then :D

taken one apart ?
be interested in your progress

Here is a link to my thread at xtremesystems. It has more info that u could ever want on ac pump..

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=41495

I already took my 510 apart to play with the fan controller. I posted a thread at some forum about accidently touching the HS :D

Its VERY crammed in there and the tube Id attach to the heatsinks is going to be pretty hard to make, not sure what Im going to do but that project is going to be on hold until I can get my HTPC done.

Speaking of which :) whats a good small AC pump? I was going to wait for a CSP750 markII but I dont think its worth it now. Would be easier for everything to be external, have the pump run off of AC, and the two fans run off of a ac/dc PS I'll buy make at some point in time.
I want a powerful pump but still going to be cramped in terms of space.
Any suggestions?

well the iwaki md-15 is a wonderful AC pump, and it is small(er) than the large ac pumps.

Eh Im looking for something as close to 2 x 2 x 2" like the csp750 as possible, the md-15 is a little too far off that. Im looking at the hydor l25 now if dtek takes too long with the markII

u do realize though that with a l25 hydor u will get crap for performance. that pump is SERIOUSLY underpowered for water cooling.

Now I do...

Sooo is there any pump that is close to the size of a CSP750 and will give me equal or greater performance?

I have plenty of other stuff to do before I need a pump but Id just like to order now.

To be honest, that pump looks like more of a novelty to me. If u look at the impeller it is incredibly poorly designed. It pretty much ignores hydrodynamics.

But after reading a review of them they dont seem so bad. If you put two of them in seiries they should do fine. But with one of them it will be pahtehticly underpowered. It just doesnt have the head pressure to be able to compete even with a simple eheim 1048. Wit hthe X2 setup, they give a tad bit more ump than the eheim 1048... If you want to run ur system through more than a small rad and one waterblock then u need to get the x2 and not the single pump. it just inst powerful enough to obtain the flow rates that would even be start to come close to optimal...

To be honest, these pumps are more of a novelty for someone who needs to have something very small and needs it to look pretty. But that is my opnion. No fact in that last statement if you want to be picky about wording

You don't want to get an Iwaki "X", that's the high flow type. Look for a "Z".

To basically quote pauldenton from a PcPer post a while back when he helped me select my pump...

Iwaki Model Numers:
- MD rather than WMD indicates the more desireable Japanese motor.
- "L" in an iwaki indicates it's 115V (rather than 220V )
- "T" indicates threaded fittings - no "T" (as in this case) indicates barbs, in the case of an MD-20R 18mm OD inlet and 17mm OD outlet.
- "X" would indicate a low head/high flow model - to be avoided for water cooling
- "Z" would indicate the high head models (best for most setups but rarer and more expensive)


DrCR


___________

Dont care about looks as its going to be hidden anyways... I just need something small. From others Ive heard they get good temps from just a l20 or a csp750. Course its just a HC and a single wb but thats my setup also except my rads will be less restricting... I might be able to fit two but I'll try one and see what my temp come out to be.

The L25 is a nice silence pump with gives you great quality for the price of it.
It's cheap! and works great with most setups. As long as you get the water running, you can gave a good performance.

I tried a lot, 1x MCP 600, 2x MCP600, a 40W pond pump 3500l, and also a L20. and a L30 .
With the correct setup of water block, tubes and radiators the temperature difference is not that big.

a 2x MCP600 or a single MCP gave me only 1 degree deference. The pond pump was nice to try.... but no good for real life and gave me a higher temp.
the L20 gives me a 4 degree higher temp.

Maybe it's time to dig up some "old" posts and give the comprising between water flow and temperatures.

fhorst, he is using a more restrictive system. i think he said he is using dual waterblocks. an l25 would be fine for a single waterblock and a unrestrictive rad, but anything above that seriously kills the flow. Like on most of the new waterblocks that use water injection (rbx, tdx, cathars blocks, and the many many clones) are highly restrictive and would kill the flow down to nothing. gratned with a lower power pum it will still work, and will get ua better temps than air cooing, but if your going to invest the money, you should do it right the first time.

Going to start out with just a MCW6000a, Putting a passive zalman on the NB. If its over heats then yeah I'll be getting a MCW20 or something close.

What about the pond-mag 3? Heard a bunch of people recommend those for quiet powerful pumps. If its reliable Id sacrafice the space for one.

Was looking at a 1048 but that still looks pretty weak =\

mag 3s are cheap and very powerful, they will perform as well as a mcp600 or d4 in a watercooling loop. Sometimes they do have problems with starting leaks around the O-Rings, but if you put a little vaseline on the o ring or some RTV to seal it better, you will be fine. I have my mag 3 running in my computer basically non stop for 2 years now.

Good price range too. Think Ive found a good compromise between price,noise,performance. Screw size I'll make it fit. If it doesnt fit the first time push harder.

Oh yeah...
Max I'll have a mcw6000 and a MCW20 and some really low resistance radiators. Is it ok if I got the Mag2 instead of the Mag3? Some guy at the OCer forums said the Mag3 actually collapsed his 3/8" ID tygon (not really sure why that would happen since its a closed system :confused: ). But anyways would I get any noticable temp differences between the two? Size is the same and price is 10$ dif so I dont care. Just was looking at the Mag2 because its less power plus Im ASSumin it would be quieter...

collapse his tubing? he's probably bsing around cos that would be result of a leak

nope
you guys don't understand the pressures in a closed loop
the first 1/2 is positive, the second negative

so if I do use thin walled 3/8" ID tubing am I in danger of having the tubing by the inlet collapse when using a high head pump like the mag3?

My guess is he used thin wall tygon because its quite a bit cheaper. I cant see any of these pumps colapsing my 1/2 id 3/4 od tygon.

all about wall thickness
coolsleeves ?

Or a bunch of zip ties - my ghetto version of coolsleeves.

Since you said the first half has positive pressure and the second half has negative pressure Im guessing the highest postive pressure is right at the the outlet of the pump and highest negative is at the intlet. I am also guessing the pressure gradually changes. So it slowely goes from full positive, to less positive, to 0 to less negative, to full negative in the loop.

I was already planning on using 1/2" ID 3/4" od or greater tubing on the inlet mostly because 3/8" just wouldnt fit..

how extreme is the change in negative pressure from the very tip of the inlet of the pump to 12" away of straight tubing?

No one here talked about the Eheim 1250, i consider it a valuable silent pump, althought rather expensive.
I would guess the negative pressure would be equal trought all the first tubing on the inlet? (Assuming the pressure drop on the tubing is ignorable?)