i was just thinking , cut the passages in have and leave a fin down the middle of them to double the surface area and maybe if you wanted or htink it would help is to add the inlet in the center and have the fin cut the water and spirel it out to the two outlets outside have like a t connect or somthing split 1 hose into two for the outlets
http://24.247.99.28:8080/images/block2r.jpg

I think you will run out of room. I don't have tooling to do those small passes. Maybe Fixittt can figure that one out. Might make a good addition to his original Spiral.

yeah, I think the centre channel is probably getting to be a little too much now...

ok hey i guess we found our medium didnt we :) what ever works

I am picking up a drill press tomorrow and will start using it to do all my drilling being I am tired of changing the collet to the chuck on my mill. It isn't easy on this mill. I found a nice 5speed drill press on sale for $40.00!!! Was $80.00 I hope they still have them in stock when I get there. That will make drilling the mounting holes easier because I can make a jig to get them perfect everytime with the greatest of ease. I think this block is going to do pretty good. My expectation are high. ialready milled out the two side outlets spots aswell. i am first going to use them as in and out, and then I will put a center inlet and the other as the outlet.

...

The split flow spiral Scythe posted would take right at 2" as shown using 1/8" channels and 30mil wall thickness between channels, a .375" center circular chamber and an outermost wall thickness of 67.5 mils ;)

Even if you don't split the channels in two, the concept of splitting the flow two ways is a good one. Maybe later I'll do up a drawing and show why from a thermal standpoint...

(wanders back off into the blue)

if someone makes my block and if it have some nice decent performance i will buy it off of them :)

That is what I was thinking. I only have 1.5" to work with and still be able to get a seal around it. Maybe 1.75" If I push it. a 2" peice pretty much maxes out my vise for the mill anyway, not to mention 2" wide is just right for Socket A boards as anymore and you will have to mill the bottom of the block to fit around the hump on the end of the socket.

have you thought about taking out a couple of mm for that hump thingee on the socket lever action? I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard. Then you have 60mm to play with

http://24.247.99.28:8080/images/block2.jpg

that is still my fav one so far

I can't but maybe Fixittt can. My vise only opens 2" so that is as wide of material I can get in there. I don't have the travel on the table to do much morethan a 2" peice anyway. Fixitts mill is larger than mine so it should work on his. I also like that first one!!!

haha thanks im really glad people actually like my idea and are interested , maybe i'll come up with an even better one later since i'll be on the toliet all night the steak i ate for dinner JUST doesnt want to go quietly. toliets a good spot for thinking.

the best thing about your idea is that you can run it with just one inlet and one outlet and it would still perform fairly good.

Also, it wouldn't be too hard to mod one to have 2 inlets and 2 outlets, with all the water flowing through the centre

i hope someone makes one or a bunch. id be making one right now if i had the tools

hehehe, I would think about it but I need to finish the 3 new designs I have already started!!!:D

no pressure no pressure *sprays jaydee with a hose*

i can finish the two Al ones by this weekend but the Copper one will take a few months.:( I need new bits for Copper and they are not cheap. I don't want to drop the cash untill work picks up more stabily. Al bits are cheap though. I just want to find a 1/64" one to do tiny fins with.

i really wish i had mill ,id probaly get 2 done a day since , um i dont do anything all day sleep till 4pm then get on computer hmm maybe i should get a job....nah. seriously dont rush it

ehh, forget the copper versions, do them all in Al, until you find a design you can't beat, then do that one in Cu.

Also, a 1/64" bit would be awesome, I'm thinking dynatron 60 fin heatsinks right now

:eek: :eek: That would be damn cool but i don't think my mill has it in it. It would take hours to make just one and I would fry my motor!!!:D

I still havn't figured out how they mass produce those one peice HS's.

if you get a 1/64" bit, you have to promise me you will make a block like this.

if you did, and it performed well, you're under contract to make me two for socket a and one for socket 478 ;)

Hmmmm, what type of sealing method did you have in mind to need that much side wall? Remember included in that 2" is a 67.5mil side wall. Also don't forget that this is at the thinnest point of the side wall, where the center axis of the spiral is. That would increase as you moved away from the center axis, steadily increasing until in the "corners" of the 2x2 spiral area you would have about 350mils per side. You could also put a raised edge on it and then put a raised center section in the lid to insure a good seal.

Attached is a modified version of Scythe's block idea to show what I am trying to communicate. (Note that the exit fittings would be moved inside of the recessed area, just didn't take that much time with the pic modification, lol).

<attached image>

that'd be cool, you could solder the top of the top without too much of a problem, and make sure it had a very good seal.

or you could have the side of the cap stepped in, like [ and have the o-ring in the step area

I can only go with 2"wide material on my setup. Every block I make will have a removable top so I need 1/4" minumum on the sides for an O ring as it takes a 1/8" pass for that. That leaves 1/16" on both sides of the O ring which is as little as I want to get.

or I can go 1/8" on the sides and hope the silicone hold with only 1/8". Which it did for a couple weeks on waterblock #2 on my website but that was only 2 weeks and I didn't test it any longer.

Jaydee:

I understand the 2" restriction you have :)

To be able to use an O-ring, then increase the size of the raised area on the block and the step on the lid. The attached modified picture shows what I mean (and what Brad mentioned too).

With the O-ring being on the side of the step, sealing should be even better than an O-ring on top. It only adds 1/4" to the block height (with your minimum 1/4" needed for doing the O-ring).

Brad:

You could make the top out of 2 flat pieces, but I was thinking of simply making it out of one piece and milling the "rim" around the edge ;) You could use the same sealing method for your max'd out block you have attached a few posts above too.

I think we are looking at this from a different perspective. I will try and come up with a basic drawing of what I am saying.

The inside square is pretty much the area I will work with.

jaydee, what do you think of my top left design on that block? Is it doable with your mill?

Also, I'm not worried about length, my iwill will have room for a 100mm x 50mm block.....

The mill can do it but I am not sure I am capable of coming up with the code to do it. That will be a nightmare to try and get to work right. It would take several hours to mill as the bit is so small not even the bigger mills would be able to go any faster do to the fragile bit. I am having no luck finding a endmill that will mill Al under 1/8" so far. I have a few other places to check yet.

Very nice design though, maybe a more capable code writer can figure that one out.

ok, well it could be simplified a bit of course, but I wouldn't like it to be too much simpler