hmm get some copper pipe and bend it around those mosfet heatsinks and then epoxy it with some ASII epoxy

Notice the capacitors that are 1/8" away from the HS's!!!

remove the heatsinks and put the block directly onto the mosfets?

"for my flamethrower "
crap did I miss something?

That was my original plan but i have to unsolder 2 of the mosfets to unscrew the HS from the other 2 mosfets behind the first two. I really don't want to to that If I don't have to. The damn sinks are not level across the tops either so I would have to file away to get anything to stick to the top. I am thinking about fitting a 60mm fan over the top of them somehow. Might be able to mount it off the water block hold down screws.

I think the main point behind a water cooled HDD not air cooled is so you can soundproof it - hard to do that if you need fans on it. I know about noisy HDDs mine are very noisy.

watch out watercooling the mosfets... i was gonna watercool the variable voltage thing im making for my radiator fan... BUT the metal plate is part of the POSITIVE VOLTAGE.... this would conduct the electricity through the water and to something else in the system.. this will break down your water block

(i saw this happen once because some guy used AS and somehow it conducted from the cpu to his block... and he got some nice holes)

anyway.. what im doing to get around this is to make a ceramic plate to go between the block and the voltage!!

another reason to water cool a hard drive is LESS DUST!!!

Not really!!!:D I can buy a air compressor for the price of a hard drive block, if I was to buy one, and blow the dust out when ever. Ever hear of filters? those also suppress the noise a bit.

I am going to air cool those mosfets somehow. I will attach a plate from the hold down srews of the water block and mount a little fan onto it.

Wow this thread really took off. For now I've decided to put this project on hold. It would take more time and energy then I have right now, so I'll probably just buy that 'cudaIV I've wanted instead. :)

:)

Its still under development, but right now it torches brush from a few feet. Basically its a copper barrel with a very old O2 tank that someone found around the local air force base. Donno how and its probably better I don't. But basically it has an unregulated 3/8 inch neck.

What happens is I charge it with propane, then shoot it out the barrel. Liquid propane suddenly flying out of a 3/8 pipe goes really far. It looks really sweet since it fires from the hip and makes a lot of fire, but if I charge it to even ~20% of a propane tanks pressure it pops the compression fittings right out. If I find some cheap quick connects I'll probably use them instead.

I'll post some pics once I get the bugs worked out.

but where is the fun in that? you gotta make a computer that does the work FOR you, not one that makes you do the work =)

So the hard drive water cooler was made by the computer???;)

For those mosfets: you could de-solder them all from the mobo, together with their heatsinks. Then proceed like BladeRunner did for his PSU.
If a mosfet backplate wasnt connected to GND but to some voltage, put a wire between the backplate and the original heatsink hole.
Just make sure U put some mica/ceramic shims between mosfets and the waterbloc... and all will be allright.

Wow redleader, now that sounds like one cool project! :cool: One question, do you have any insulation on the barrel? does it get hot at all or is the LP ignighted in front of it? Are you at all worried about getting "back up" into the system? What kind of range do you get with the thing? Anyway very neat and it sounds like it's VERY fun to play with.

Thanks!

The barrel is generally 4.5 feet long, though it can detach into smaller pieces for testing. The tank itself is short and wide, so its more then 2 feet in the oppisite direction of the fire. I thought decompression might chill the barrel, but for now it leaks so fast through the damn compression fittings its not noticable.

Range is limited. For now, maybe 4 feet at best. The orginal model a coworker at Pizza Hut showed me could torch things from more then the lenght of a dumpster. I'll be happy if the finished device can light brush/sticks/whatever from 10 or 12 feet.

Backup: I have a 1/8 barb inside the barrel that should create enough restriction, but I don't think its really needed. The tank is pure Propane, without O2 it can't burn. As long as its pressurized, no O2 can go up the tank. Also the tank is really heavily made. It was intended for combat afterall, so I'm guessing the fittings would explode releasing the blast rather then the tank. Hopefully thats not an issue though :eek:

Anyway this is still far from finished. It leaks gas like heck and can barely charge. Unfortunately I have little time to fix it now. But anyway, heres a quick pic so you know I'm not BSing.

http://home.earthlink.net/~ggiacomel...opviewlong.jpg

Once I get the bugs worked out and think its (reasonably) safe I'll probably do a quick writeup and post more pics.

The power went out for a few hours here. I cannot believe how much quiter it was!!! It was around 9:00pm to 10:30pm so there wasn't much else going on around here either. I could actually here the cars driving by.

I could hear my ears ringing from the 3 comps. Definatly going to work on the noise now. Hard drive is still way to picky though!!!;)

First time I have had all the comps off at the same time for over a year.

heh, that is seriously cool. I myself own a tennis ball cannon, it will fire a tennis ball about 600 metres. just needs a small charge of fly spray, a bbq igniter is part of the assembly.

Jaydee, with my laptop I get 3-4 hours per battery and I own 4 batteries, so if the power goes out, I really don't care :P

woah... that's... cool...

What the hell are you doing with a tennis ball cannon, Brad?

:)

BTW. Why the hell is there a 30 second flood protection?

Redleader: Ow. That flamethrower is nasty. Is it connected to your comp ? One wouldnt want to sit near you at a LAN party :D
Brad: :eek: (avoids flying tennis balls) I'm just thinking about wonderful modding ideas with that toy. Is it a wheel-mounted model (the kind of looks like a modded Dalek from Dr Who) ?

To solder....simply put the copper block all fluxed with the solder in between, hopefully jigged up in an oven toaster for about 15 minutes or less.

Then do a leak test.

a Toaster Oven? How ghetto is that?! :)

Actually its a pretty neat way of doing small scale projects that require soldering copper. Given that the solder melts rather easily.

Brazing on the other hand is another process altogether.

But the neat thing about it is that it practically simulates a larger furnace on a tiny scale.

The results, after a few minutes of polishing is quite pro.

you gotta make a computer before it can work for you =)

i heard electrical solder works good for this... will normal plumbing solder melt in a toaster oven too?

I haven't tried using plumber's solder.

The solder we use for our rads for one, cures at a little over 120 C, and melts at about 400 C.

The question should be "do you want to use the toaster ever again for food?"

I personally have used my oven to cure paint, and GOOP and JB Weld... but I dont think I would use it to melt something thats a carcinogen like Lead or the other toxic chemicals that make up the Resin and filler metals.

What's the big deal? You make Hot Pockets in them already :)

This is true!! wait.. no I make hot pockets in the microwave :)

HAL, solder the HDD block please.

HAL, solder the HDD block please...

HAL? HAL! solder the HDD block please....

I'm sorry jaydee I can't do that.

Why not HAL?

I can not allow you to endanger your HDDs like this, this conversation can serve no further logical purpose, Good Bye jaydee.