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-   -   Lapping Theory (http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=3719)

koslov 07-10-2002 01:57 PM

Here's a link to get up to 2000grit sandpaper at reasonable prices:http://www.wicksaircraft.com/gotopage.php?page=29. $1.33 for one 2000grit.

WireX 07-10-2002 02:00 PM

Quote:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Organized_Chaos
Blocks

What about directly cooling a TEC, does that work any better because of the large surface area?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


It can't. The pelts have to be clamped, so direct cooling is not possible, but I suppose someone could get really creative and find a way to do just that...
It can be done, with the block I was telling you about earlier, their was a version of it that supported it. The pelt was just clamped inbetween the block and a coldplate, similar to the maze series. The probolem is that you actually don't get much surface area compared to a block, so you need a ton of flow to get it to work.

-WireX

iceheart 07-10-2002 02:50 PM

I found up to 2000 grit in a local construction store, it's used in lots of applications where you want paint that looks good and also is extremely durable (cars being the most obvious).

I have to support the "Finer is better" variation on this, the counter-argument being that there are no microscopic crevasses for the goop to fill, which is simply wrong. Imperfections in a 2000grit sanded block can be seen with relatively simple methods:

http://www.procooling.com/~iceheart/2000_scratches.jpg

This block looks perfectly mirror finish in normal lightning conditions:

http://www.procooling.com/~iceheart/2000.jpg

The fact that many people has reported lower temperatures with less sanded blocks have to be related to the "too much goop" issue which was mentioned earlier. At some point in the future I intend to do some experiments with this.

bigben2k 07-10-2002 03:12 PM

Thanks to everyone for their contribution.

I think that we can safely say that the best lapping (to a mirror), combined with a PROPERLY applied thermal paste (preferably Arctic Silver 2 or 3) will achieve the best results.

ECUPirate 07-11-2002 12:57 AM

Well, here's something for ya.

I had a P4 w/ a semi-mirrored Maze 3. I was using way too much AS3. So, I removed the block and used a credit card to scrape away any excess AS3, and the tested things out. Well, temps were a few degrees worse. Not only that, but as soon as the CPU had any load, the temps shot up, and as soon as it started idling, the temps fell quickly.

So, I took everything apart, and looked at the chip. The built in heat spreader was not flat... not even close. It was high around the edges, and a little high in the center. So I lapped it. I tried 600 grit, the 400, and finally 320 started helping. It was waaay off. FYI, the heat spreader is made of copper. I don't know what Intel did to make it silvery, (aluminum perhaps), but now its fairly shiny copper, and flat.

I put things back together, and a used a Kleenex to daub on AS3... a veeery thin coat, on both the CPU and the WB. I worked the WB around to get everything to settle in, and then cranked the springs down all the way.

*Temps haven't changed a bit. Maybe just a tad higher, but it feels warmish in this room, so who knows. Maybe I'll add more AS3... maybe I'll take it all off. I dunno. I only used enough this time to make it look a little silvery. hmmm. If nothing else, I probably voided my warranty. All is not lost. :)

Fixittt 07-11-2002 08:21 AM

hey ECU, try lapping the block with some 600 grit and some WD-40 and take temp readings. and see if there is any difference.

bigben2k 07-11-2002 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Fixittt
hey ECU, try lapping the block with some 600 grit and some WD-40 and take temp readings. and see if there is any difference.
NEVER do that. DO NOT use WD-40 to facilitate lapping.

http://www.articsilver.com/arctic_si...structions.htm

Use plain old water.

gmat 07-11-2002 09:25 AM

BB2K:
You had the answer on that site from the beginning !
Quote:
"
The flatter the mating surfaces, the thinner the layer that is required. Stock processors and/or heatsinks with normal surface irregularities will require a layer 0.003" to 0.005 thick as shown below to fill the resultant gaps. (Equal to the thickness of about 1 sheet of standard weight paper.) Properly lapped heatsinks with mirror finishes will only require a translucent haze.
"

To the last sentence one may add "together with a properly lapped chip".

bigben2k 07-11-2002 09:41 AM

Yeah, but everybody's got a theory, even Arctic Silver. I started this thread to get everyone's opinion, and to make it perfectly clear that the mirror finish is best.

Still, it seems to me that the surface of the core is now the issue. I don't want to get into the Durons, but the current Athlon XPs, especially the latest one with the Thoroughbred core, seem to be very flat, even shiny. I guess someone is doing something right, I'm just wondering why it took so long.


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