Paul suggested (from experience) a channel that is 1.3 by 2.0 for a 1.6 mm o-ring. In terms of cross-section, that's 2.0 mm^2 for the o-ring, and 2.6 for the channel.

What you're proposing (1.8mm o-ring and 1.0 by 1.5 trench) would give 2.5 mm^2 cross section area for the o-ring, and 1.5 sq mm for the trench.

The obvious question is: how are you going to fit a 1.8 o-ring into a 1.5 channel?

I think you should make the channels 1.8 wide, and 1.5 deep. (what do you think, Paul?)

I agree.

Too much squish is actually worse then not enough. Only 0.002" (0.05 mm) squish is actually adequate for our application. I opted for 0.012" squish because that is what an engineer at my work recommended as a maximum. I wanted the block to seal even under a lot of pressure even if it will never see it. To keep it from leaking under near zero pressure, all you need is for the rubber to be touching both surfaces, but of course a little squish is better for peace of mind.

If you over-stress the rubber, it is more likely to fail.

Yo Paul and bb2k

Is 4mm mounting screw enuff for mounting? I want to use a mounting screw as small as possible, cos i want the block to be as small as possible.

Probably. Which threading?

What's the holding strenght for a 4mm bolt?

I think my mouting of the lid would be similiar to where those 4 rubber pads on the Athlon XP are, just that they are screws to mount the lid. Since it can prevent a HSF from crushing the core, it can surely mount a lid quite nicely.

Spent 15 minutes in Solidworks making a new block. Here it is:

http://homex.coolconnect.com/member4/h2o_cool/pic1.JPG

http://homex.coolconnect.com/member4/h2o_cool/pic2.JPG

http://homex.coolconnect.com/member4/h2o_cool/pic3.JPG

http://homex.coolconnect.com/member4/h2o_cool/pic4.JPG

Comments?

Eliminate sharp angles - flow killers.

Bob

If you paid enough attention to my diagrams, you can see that i placed a wall right after the entrance to promote turbulence and to guide the water down to the other side, rather than making there a dead spot.

BTW, my EHEIM 1250 seems to be pumping water with so much pressure that the water flowing into the reservoir is very strong. So i reckon by using 2 of these waterblocks, maybe I can cool it further and overclock it.

Anyway, anymore suggestions? :D

Well, it's an NB block, so it doesn't really matter now, does it? As long as it cools the chip, it'll be good.

hm.. what do u think of the block? if u give me the green light, i will send this to my machinist straight away :D

To be honest, you could purchase the same design from DangerDen: they call it the Z block.

really?? oh.. :shrug:

but i think i will stick to this, since my other block wasnt a good design. Do you think my design of the O-ring placement is good? or should i use round curves?

I'd use round curves.

i just got an inspiration for a new block.. hope it isn't the same as anyone's else. Will render it out in Solidworks 2morrow after school.. gotta heat up my poor little gfx card again. :D

here it is...

http://homex.coolconnect.com/member4...alie_block.JPG

how is this one? :D

'tis a pity you could never fit barbs on top of it that close together, let alone barbs with hosing of any substantial wall thickness.

i'm gonna drill some fancy slanted designs on the lexan top and fit in my barbs.. if worse comes to the worst, i will use some 90 degrees bending thing to fit in the barbs...

thanks for ur comments anyway :D

anymore comments?

You're stuck with the same barb problem. 90 deg fittings would be restrictive, but I guess it's not relevant, since this is only a chipset block.

45 degree fittings might be your solution here.

i have a new design which is simpler but wouldnt have any barbs inssue.. will show it to you guys by tonight.

behold the "I" block (aka "O" block) :D

http://homex.coolconnect.com/member4...ool/block3.JPG

upzzz

block is 7mm tall, passage is 5mm tall and base is 2mm thick