its on pwebtech, truly THE worst hosting co in this country
should be changed in 2 weeks

man forget the rad go for the chiller.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=1785620072

that is an MCS10 (and $150 !)
the rad above is from an MCS30 (1/4 hp pump motor, etc), same box, bigger components inside

I hate to dissapoint ya'll but that's not a chiller, it's just a cooler: same principle as your basic PC watercooling setup.

The PDF specifically states: "...suited for high-heat applications that do not require refrigerated liquid cooling..." "...if you operate above ambient temperatures..."

The good news is that it's a rackmount unit, and that should be perfect for you, Airspirit.

no Ben, not a rackmount
I've had 8 of these and the frames will not support them when hung from the front

Ah! Once again, correct.

The MCS10 is available in a rackmount version (see PDF, page 2), but that's not one of them.

Can I assume that since it's a MCS10H that it's 220v or am I incorrect? I couldn't find info on the "03M01" piece of the model number since the pdf file doesn't appear to list the 03 and M01. If that MCS10H03M01 is 115v then I'm just going to get that and not worry about bidding on the MCS10G03M01.

LMAOPMIP...this place is a hoot...5 minutes after these last few posts about the MCS this one starts getting bids on it!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...784974000&rd=1

I downloaded the entire catalog, and couldn't find any reference. You'd have to e-mail the seller.

The reason I wouldn't use it is that it's a generic WC setup for the lazy. Yes, it looks pretty for an external unit, but I can build better myself. That's why I picked up the Uberradiator. The pump in that wouldn't power my system right, anyway. Plus, the choice of positioning for the res is questionable, if I'm reading it right. Putting the res after the pump output is an instant flowkiller.

I did look at one of these, but it just doesn't do the job for me, methinks. Besides, I'm not installing in a rack anymore, so the 19" constraint isn't there. I'll be building up from a homegrown McGuyver MCS that measures 30"Wx20"Hx20"D ( http://users.adelphia.net/~jnsholcomb/Page1.htm ). I'm just going to use stacked Enlight 7200 desktop cases (same effect, same benefits, 15% the cost overall, but not quite as supa-geek as the pure rackmount).

the bigger units are actually kinda nice

3/4" from a 3qt. res to the pump inlet, 3/4" pump to rad thru a filter, 1/2" rad out and res return
with a low coolant float switch and a pump cutout relay
(but thats a unit with all the options), and not too silent - ahem

as airspirit said, not optimized for CPU cooling at all

I would guess that the MCS that was listed above would perform on par to a BIXr2 w/ 2xPanaflo "M", a Danner 500 GPH pump, and a milk carton. The difference is that you can fit all those things inside of your case most of the time. That MCS would be a little tight in there (this is when somebody shows up with a picture of a case with more square footage than my house).

hmm i've been looking for rads like this in europe for quite a while now... (basicly the reason why my project which is quite similar to airspirit's, but i'm using 2U cases, isn't making progress). Anyone has an idea where i could find something like that in europe? (if i have to go alu, i'll go full alu, the purpose of this watercooler is silence anyhow, not überperformance)

Btw, for the interested ones, one 2U case is almost finished. Pics will be up when my sis returns my digicam.

io dax, i remember that u too were talking about making some WB's, are they alu or cu?

problem is that i'm having trouble finding cu where we live, u got any ideas?

no idea where to find copper around here... and bout my waterblocks, i have a milion designs in my head, so alu or copper, it doesn't really matter... if i can find a large al rad, i'll go with al blocks, if i can find a large cu rad, i'll go with cu blocks

Search for Lytron on Ebay. There are a few surplus outlets that are constantly auctioning them off. You will find them in either copper (6000 series) or steel (4000 series) with copper fins. The copper ones will run you between $60-150 USD and the steel ones between $30-100 USD. Try for a copper one. You should be able to find them in sizes much smaller than the one I got for alot less ($50 USD range).

In the copper series, there's also an "economical" line:
M05-050, M05-100, M10-080, M10-160, M14-120 and M14-240.

Do take the time to download the Lytron catalog, to check out the specs: that last unit is 14 inches high, and 24 inches wide (2 inch thick).

Watch out for the flow restrictions, and the heat dissipation. Multiple rads in parallel might be in order here.

Warning: the catalog is a 5.5 MB file!

Personally, I'll stick with heatercores:D

Well, the pump, rad and fan alone are worth more than $150. Scavange it or sell the parts individually and make more than $150. Although I must say I'm impressed when I read that a 1/16hp pump won't power their system. Also, rerouting the lines doesn't seem too tough for more effective positioning although the large picture of the open one seems to be accurate.

I bought two of the MCS30 Lytron units (alum rads) a while back on Ebay for $75.......The cases were somewhat scarred up but the internals were like new.......They were represented as MCS20 units (copper rads) which is what I was looking for.......So I didnt end up using any of the components......

I did however sell the two Iwaki MD70RXT pumps for a total of $250 and the two radiators (identical to BillA's) for $40 total and the two 172mm 110v fans for $20 total......thats $310 + shipping for a $75 investment......not bad :)

Well done. My point exactly.

and shipping?

you fellows seem to be ignoring some radiator 'basics':

ss tubes are used for their corrosion resistance, not at all good for heat transfer as compared to copper

and round tubes for their pressure capability, inferior to ANY flat tube with soldered or brazed fins

the ONLY reason to use a round tube radiator is because its cheap
- and given the price of heater cores . . . .

BillA,
Agreed on the steel. We had a discussion in another thread about that. As far as the advantages of heatercores, we are agreed. The reason I went with the biggie is because in the end, I wouldn't be able to find a core with the requirements for a multiple sytem cooler. This can do it, and allow me to use huge quiet fans as well (looking at Caravels at around 10V ... somewhere around 33-34dB, if I reckon correctly ... damn near silent). This is not the solution for everyone. Plus, I just think heatercores look ghetto, and while I live in the ghetto, my geekware doesn't need to match my surroundings.

:P

airspirit
understood, was only pointing out that round tube are less than ideal
- but as with all system component selections, everything is a balancing of compromises

and beauty of course is in the eye of the beholder

I work around car guts all day in the course of my job. I really don't want to see them in my Temple of Geekdom. It is funny getting the reactions of ASE certified mechanics when you're telling them about watercooling stuff. They aren't afraid of working on $50K vehicles, but they wouldn't think of trying the same cooling work on the inside of a computer.

As a general statement, that would be true. However...

If you compare the Lytron 6320 with its SS counterpart, the 4320, you'll find that the thermal performance is almost exactly the same (pointed out by another user).

Personally, it would be the corrosion factor that would worry me rather than the heat transfer ability. I won't even use brass in my system for fear of corrosion.

I think I'm paranoid ... I use tons of corrosion inhibitors and I worry about different purity levels in the copper itself ....

so the conclusion is . . . . ?

lets examine the possibilities:
- the thermal conductivity of Cu and ss is not so different
- given the fabrication methods the end result is not so different
- the data is not so accurate

we know the first is not true, the second and third are possible

we know that swedged-on fins are always worse than brazed or soldered fins,
but differences between the Cu and ss tubes should be slight (deformation, 'springback', etc)
- we do not know if the tubes are upset into the preformed fin holes, or if both are made in the same way

we know that sales lit is not a test report (though I greatly like, and reference, the Lytron graphs)

conclusion ?
the same, best performance with a flat tube and soldered or brazed fins
(and note that the Al rad shown has VERY unique flat tubes - per Lytron and the tube extruder)

Well, by looking at my 4120, it appears that the copper extends into the tubing itself. In fact, the SS is not even visible externally. Hopefully a picture is worth more than these words:

http://home.pacbell.net/pqjack/lytron4120fins.jpg

Also note that Lytron 6XXX copper rads have a microscopic layer of paint, which might lower their performance to that of the SS rads. But I would guess that superior fin bonding plays a greater role in the equalization, which one might guess from the difference in price between copper and SS rads.

Well, the guy's still better than he was 2 weeks ago. The guy sold one two weeks ago for $46, last week for $65 and $106, and tonight for $91.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=1782862712

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=1784983074

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...786039691&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...787431502&rd=1

Marketing to WCing enthusiasts has now made him an additional $124 from two weeks ago.

However, the guy selling the larger versions without the fans, like jnsholcomb (airspirit) bought for $71, went down to $51 the other day. IMO, the smaller, SS one with the fans is not worth $40 more than the larger, copper one without fans.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...785284769&rd=1

Interesting mindset on Ebay sometimes.