LOL@Bob! Didn't I include you in on my mind-reading machine?:D


McMaster p/n for copper tubing:
1/16: 7190K51
3/32: 7190K52

I should make a nice smooth opening for those tubes, to promote flow.

Been thinking a lot on this, and drawing up some plans/schematics/rules-of-thumb/trigonometry.

Can be done using a square grid array.

Pick a drill bit size to do the dimples with. Let's choose 3/32" (~2.4mm)

Sides on elements of the grid should by 5/6 (exactly) of the drill bit size (or 5/64" for our 3/32" drill bit size)

This creates rough diamond shaped pins that are about 0.25 of the grid distance on a side (in this example around 5/256" or about 0.5mm on a side). These pins are going to be important as structural supports for the base-plate.

Plate thickness should be twice as thick as the drill bit size (3/16" in this case). Drill depth should be 1.5x of the drill bit size to the bottom of the drill holes.

This creates the dimples, the pins, and enough channel area between the pins for the water to flow out.

A dimpled area of 5/8" x 5/8" will be adequate for most any CPU. Need to create side outlet channels to enable middle in, dual-side outlet config.

Inlet jet plate will have jet holes to match the dimples. Jet holes should be 1/3 of the drill bit size in width (1/32")

For a 3/32" dill bit grid array over a 5/8" x 5/8" area this creates basically a 8 x 8 grid. Total jet orifice area is around 32mm^2 which is restrictive enough to create a very good jet velocity with something like an Eheim 1250 pump.

Ben, got any objections if I get my machinists to make up the above on a CNC mill?

No, by all means, go right ahead!

But why are you dropping the honeycomb? Convenience of calcs?:D

Also, you might have missed it, but I mentionned using a square ended endmill, as a drill bit, to dodge the cone shape. Would your calculations differ significantly?

Dropping honeycomb because I'm thinking of rotating the grid by 45 degrees.

I'm actually thinking that the coned shape for the dimples is a good thing.

The cone shape of the dimples is what you need. The impingement presses against the side of the angle in the dimple as it flows up that cone shape promoting an even thinner boundary layer. The reason I did my baseplate with convex.

Ok I have a quick prototype ready to go;

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/imp_block.jpg

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/imp_block2.jpg

BP is 4.5mm thick and the holes (bit too deep to be called dimples:D) are 3.5mm deep and 3mm in dia, the jet's are 1.5mm in dia.

Some of you may recognise the top part of the block, since it's cut down from my p4 direct die watercooling block, it has multiple layers, with diagonally opposing dual in and out.

I'll hook it up to my t-bred 2100+@2.4gig tomorrow.

You may be right. The cone shape adds a significant amount of surface area, vs a square ended endmill.

BEN,
While I like the simplicity of this idea, I think you should NOT give up on Radius(or are you just getting bored?).
I think Radius has alot of potential and will be simply amazing in performance once you complete it....Not to mention, beautiful too with an LED lighting it, sitting on top of an AMD chip!

Ok I've got the impingement block set up;

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/imp_block3.jpg

I must say I'm quite impressed, it matches my micropin block in performance:cool:

using the latest verson of MBM to record of the XP's internal diode, allthough the absolute reading is off (as usual), relitive readings seem to be accurate enough for my purposes here.

This is an idea i had for a water delivery system in the wb.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/jetring.jpg

cut channels into a star and then if possible make an outer circle and an inner. Then drill the holes into the channles. If made correct you should be able to direct the jets at the cones in the base plate.

then just place it under the inlet barb as a middle layer.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/jetring2.jpg

if a little more effort and thought was put into it i am sure it will work.

Oh not to worry, I haven't given up! I'm just stuck in a loop, where I need a good PC to get a DXF out of SW2K3, and the block for the PC:D (and funds, versus getting a car!)

Actually, while developing Radius, I've imagined many designs, including the ProCooling block, but this one is one I thought was worthy of mention.

Nice work Volenti! Glad to see my idea put to the test so quickly, and work well too! With a BP thickness of 4.5, did you consider trying out less? What pump did you use?

The bottom of the jet's in the perxpex top is actually a shallow chamber, so there's no support for a thin bp, the holes in the bp penetrate down to within 1mm of the bottom though, the fact that it's performing as well as it is proves that we got something right at least (:

I'll try a couple of different thicknesses of BP and hole/dimple setups (including simple featureless bp's) though I may not be able to see much of a difference with the equipment I have...

the pump's an iwaki MD-20RZ

volenti, Do you by chance have any pictuers of your jet in action? without the base attached to see the spray?


Jon

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/iwaki_8.jpg

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/iwaki_13.jpg

The camera flash freezes the action a little too well, the streams look more fluid in real life.

whoaah, xplosive action there.

i still cant figure out too well how you are doing the exit channels of the water. care to give us some build drawings or something.

how far can the jet exits be from the beginning of the baseplate. atm i haev a copper stock with bars of 1cm or 1/3" thickness. if i go for a BP thickness of 3mm, then there is 7mm drilled away. can the jet effect reach over that 7mm void, or will effectiveness be lost.

thx

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/DD9.jpg

"reading" the image from left right is bottom layer to top layer.

the 4 pipes are 2 intakes and 2 exhausts, each the pairs diagonally oppose each other, the intake pipes only penetrate through the very top layer and "empty" into the 6mm thick cavity, feeding the 9 jet holes, the exhaust pipes (lol almost typed port, old starwars nerd) penetrate all the way down through the jet layer, and create an escape route for the water after the jet's have done their thing.

My jet's are currently traversing 3mm+3.5mm=6.5mm so I can't see an extra .5mm being an issue. You can actually use touch to roughly gauge how "powerfull" the jet's are v distance while underwater by directing the jet's at your finger or forearm (also under water)

I'm going to expand this current design to the pattern that big ben posted earlier (4 extra holes) but I probably won't be able to see the difference that it will make.

guys need some comments on this...

here's what im planning to do:
http://www.geocities.com/beaukeke/poohrev2.txt

here's what im "ready" to do:
http://www.geocities.com/beaukeke/poohrev1.txt

sorry for the big pics and crappy corel job... hope you get what i mean...

btw, my first posteee here =)

Welcome to ProCooling, BaThMaN!

As I asked at OC, what size jet holes where you thinking?

:D
hmmm, let me see... got 12x12mm area, maybe just a + or ||... or none at all... im afraid the height from the canal itself would affect the "jethole"...

it's a different situation on the first layout though... I wonder how the water will exit:confused:
what puzzles me is how many holes do I need (I assume a little bit larger than CPU core area should be occupied):confused: as seen from Volenti's work, he just worked out a couple of dimples:cool:
edit: just reviewed Volenti's block, I thought the hole was less than 1mm deep... argh! my eyes tricked me again!

btw, will be cooling 2 AXP 1700+ tbred Bs

It says 2mm jets,
in a piece of copper 1/8" thick.

i think his referring to the second illustration, wherein no "jet" has been disclosed...

Uh, yes, the 2nd one (aka "what I'm ready to do"). So it has no jets? or it's a single jet?

As you can see, I'm also concerned with the height clearance, which is why I proposed microtubes.:shrug:

not really sure what type of jet im going to put in there... a dual 2mm slit maybe? like || or something like + a 2mm cross or a "pizzapie" slit (+ plus diagonals on it)...

i think I want to go to the first route... I think it's worth the effort to travel 220+km (440+km back n forth) just to have 1/8" copper slab (grrrr! my fare would be like 10 times expensive than the copper itself:mad: )

That's been puzzling me, ever since you posted it:

What is it?

hi ben,

i was playing with an idea that could point a jet to each indent in a base plate. I think volenti's idea worked better. The channels cut into the acrylic would be to restrictive.

how is the project going you have generated some good ideas in this thread. Has cather had a base milled yet ?

are you still working on a plastic top ? i found you can make the sides of the top where you cut it look clear if you quickly lap it down to 1500 grit then coat it with clear spary.

That's a good tip, on the plastic top.

I just might try to build this block (microtubes and all) but for now, I'm focusing on Radius. In it, I opted for a 1/2" thick polycarbonate top. It will be sealed with an o-ring.

Then I might do the CPU backside cooler, then add some blue LEDs, the UV dye, the 4 UV CCFL tubes, the blue corrosion inhibitor, and methylene blue (if I can find it!).

just keep the ideas flowing.

The backside cooling looks like a good project.

what do you use your pc for ? i forgot what i use my for i spend all my time making stuff for it.

I have nearly finished painting a cheiftec full tower to hold my new water cooled rig. i spent almost as much on stuff to paint it as the case itself and i am still waiting for the thermaltake skived copper cooler so i can make the new water block with the jet system.

LOL! I've got the same case (Chieftec Dragon DA-01, 26" tall), and I'm also re-painting it, in metallic "hammered" charcoal Rustoleum paint, but I haven't started doing that yet. I have to put a window in that side panel too. I'm waiting for my Dremel to be shipped to me!

If you want a funky project, look at this one: 600 Watts of power (actually 900W).

Then there's the HDD block.:D

Not sure which one I'm building first, but the copper is coming for Radius and the HDD block, but I've got Yo-Duh's trick to link the PSUs, and I can't wait to get started on that one, but I haven't ordered the parts yet.

I forgot too! Many ideas, not enough time.

SolidWorks 2003 is the first software I'm installing, even before MS Office.:p

would this work volenti?

you might not notice, but this is a ripoff of your design, except that i dremel away your last 3mm plexi layer, out of my copper bottom plate.

this is not because i chose to dremel it away, its just that my copperbar is 10mm thick :-(