sorry ben i think that i'm gonna take more than 15min because i changed part of the 2nd layer and have to start it all over again, you know cad :mad:

ok so here it is. i changed the way water is going to enter the block. i don't know if there is a name for this but here is the concept. in the block there are 7x7 holes of 2mm each, in the second layer there are 5x5 holes 1.5mm each. the top layer will be smaller in height that the thread of the barb so that the thread of the barb enters in the hole that there is in the second layer round the holes.

there are 2 x 3/8" outlets and 1 x 1/2" inlet. hope that you understand the diagram. btw i am planning that both the second layer and the top will be made out of perspex

this is a close up view of the second layer

I tried this once. http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...&threadid=5476

No good. Holes to close to each other and all it did was drop flow rate.

10x jaydee, so i have to redesign the 2nd layer again :cry:

jaydee what do you think of this layout, making small holes like the one shown and make 3 x 3 1.5mm each instead of 5, 3mm between each edge??

Two thoughts,

Turbulence caused as water hits each of the drilled holes in the channels does not disapate instantly upon going back into a straight walled section. Thus you could reduce the number of holes drilled with little or no loss of performace due to turbulence. And a reduction of say 1/3 to 1/2 the number of holes drilled would also give you back some fin mass. Would also save time and improve ease of making it.

And I would use a impingement slit instead of holes. A slit should give slightly lower head loss than a series of holes of the same total open area due to reduced wall contact. Would also be much easier to cut than a set of very tiny holes, agian saving time.

Keep in mind that while this sounds good to me, I havn't tried anything of the sort. This is offered only in a attempt to help add some ideas, not from hands on experiance.:dome:

Wish I could afford a small mill.

10q blackeagel, i will reduce the number of holes in the water block later on because tomorrow i have an exam and i need to study. on the top, that what i was thinking of but for now here is the concept of the inpingement.

i could do both, one with holes and the other with slit and see which one is the best :cool:

i also changes the input to 5/8". i know that it is too big but it is enough to fit 3 holes for the inpingement.

here is the 2nd layer. any comments

BlackEagle summed it up well. I also agree with his slit cut idea as that is what Cathar uses on the White Water BUT I have one mod to that. Instead of just one strait slit, make a + slit. That way water will get into all the channels and an extra bit of flow rate directed dead center. Just a thought I have been playing with myself. Thats what I plan to use on my REV 2.0 when I get around to it.

10q jaydee. i also was opting for a + slit. before i design the holes in the 2nd layer, i was thinking of a + slit but i thought that holes would be better since the bottom of the block are holes. i got it now that slit is better, but still i would try them both to see the difference

i have a question to ask, how wide should the slit be and how long?

One thing: if you're going to limit the matrix of the pin holes to 5x5 or 3x3, you're not shooting any water in the outer channels, which means that that water is just going to sit there, no? I mean, your channels are seperated, to where they don't flow into each other!

I think you should be looking into a pinhole array that's 7 by x.

I just had a idea. How about a hole per channel in a strait l style line. If the tops of the channel walls will touch the peice above it, it should act as a seperator keeping each hole contained in each channel. If the hole diameter is the same as the width of the channel and perfectly placed it should work. How well I don't know. Anyone understand what I am saying? :D

ohh holy sh*t you are fuc*in' right. i forgot that. i have to switch to the slit than. how wide must it be??

For a 13mm slit that would be about 2-3mm depending on pump pressure.

yes understood, and i like your idea :dome:

is this what you ment jaydee??

Yes, exactly. If the channel walls touch the top of that peice and seal off each hole to each channel you should be able to control the flow of each channel and tweak it to the maximum effeciency. You might even be able to get 2 holes in the middle channels.

I might be way off base but it is a thought. Only thing that makes this different than a slit is you can make each hole bigger or smaller to tweak every channel. If you just use a slit and the channel walls touch the top you will still have the same effect but you will not be able to adjust the flow in each channel aswell. In theory anyway.

i can't make the holes bigger because they touch exaclty with each other. what i could make is for example in the middle channel i can put 3 holes

You can make them longer, not wider up and down, but left to right. Kinda like making a slit for each channel.

i understood what you wanted to say while i was posting :p

As a tip, you're going to want to keep that layer VERY thin, because those small holes are very restrictive, and they will be even more restrictive if they're deep.

Think along the lines of "paper thin".;)

ok i got that, the problem is that if i am going to make 7 holes, i have to forget about making a hole round the slit for the thread of the barb to fit in so that the water does not escape.

so the only option that remains is to make a block with 2 o rings?? one between 2nd layer and base and the other between top and 2nd layer.

are there any other options???

Why don't you just solder a short piece of 1/2" copper pipe, instead of trying to thread a hole for a barb? The 1/2" pipe should have an ID of 12.7mm .

If the tops of the fins contact the under side of the top I see no advantage to holes over a single slit. They will only increase friction = increased head loss, for no gain in cooling. I also like the idea of a 5/8" barb, and drill it out to boot. Anything to maintain max flow until inside the block where the head loss can be traded for increased cooling. You could even insert a bit of copper 1/2' tube (or 1/2" joiner tube/fitting the true OD is just under 3/4" with those but this would only help if running over sized lines), then sodder in place. Disadvantage with that is they don't come out real easy for testing changes, but another possible way to go.

I do very much like the idea of a slightly inlarged opening for the center 3 channels. This could be done with a very small roto saw cutter. But I can see a couple of concerns in doing this.

1) you don't want to decrease the flow in the outer channels by much.

2) I'd start out with only about a 20% increase per inner channel to start with. You can open it later if you wish as you are testing.

3) A narrowing of the slit overall will be needed if a very large increase in the center slits is done. This of course to maintain velocity.

edit: I see Ben posted ahead of me on the copper tubing idea. I really like the idea/advantage of higher flow gained useing copper tube as inlets/outlets to blocks as opposed to barbs. Keeps head loss at a mimimum where it does nothing to improve cooling.

edit (2) for better clarity on the sizing of copper tubing to use.

because i wanted plexy top, to be visible, but if not possible i will go your way :cool:

and also thank you blackeagel for you help. i found them very interesting and helpful

I have to agree. Scrap my idea. :D

In that case... You could glue a PVC fitting to the top. The PVC will be white or grey. If you want a clear fitting: www.usplastics.com

i can arrange something between the 2. because with your idea i can control the flow of the channel :)

to be sincerierly i had that idea before i draw the top, but you know what, it never came to mind that i could change the flow over the channels using it.

you are genius:drool: even you bigben :drool: and Blackeagle :drool:

thank you all

i had a new idea. i could use 1/2" or 5/8" barb and then use a reducer with one end wide as the 7 holes (a little bit more) and with the other end to fit in the barb. what do you think?