Pro/Forums - question about dtek radiator

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Quote:

Originally posted by Sproket
[b]Deviant:

Sounds like you may not have the same Dtek Rad we have. They make two types. One with screw in barbs and one without screw in barbs. Which do you have and what type of pump are you using?

How can I get some of that UV Dye your using?
is that Dye-lite? I see those pics of UV Dye all over the net!
http://www.directron.com/waterdye.html
Those look like the Old dtek Dye pics.
I bought some UV Dye from Directron.com and it was the worst!
It was exactly old dye-lite.
Thanks

Either way its just a heatercore. More then likely they both come from the same factory. Hell my 2 year old DTek core looks identical down to the soldering and fins to every other heatercore I've ever seen.

I'm guessing you just have crappy die or something.

I dont want to stir up stuff or make any one person or company look bad. thats not my intensions. But the facts are, for me, I tried Dtek dye and rad and it did Not work for me. If I took out Dtek rad out of loop I had no problem, even with same dye. Yes the Dtek Dye worked well without Dtek rad.

I tried mounting that rad every which way.
I used distilled water all the time.

Just my facts and experience.

Right, but your experience points to a heatercore (any heatercore) as acting as a trap for heavy UV particles. Obviously the Aquacoil doesn't. The oddball is Joe ;)

Quote:

Originally posted by RabidMoose
I'm not sure if this applies to this situation, but pigments, including many fluorescent "dyes", are highly insoluble in water (around 1 part per trillion). They are particulate in aqueous solution and require some turbulance to remain in the water column. The dyes in question could be tested for solubility by centrifugation of the diluted sample (something around 1000g x 5 minutes). Edit: Or just dilute in coolant in a tall jar and let it sit a few days to see if any flourescenece begins to band at the bottom.

As far as the general loss of flourescence some people have seen, this could also simply be photobleaching (loss of activity of the flourophore). A stabilizing agent such as n-propyl gallate may be required.

http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/cgi-bin/...ProdNo=W294705

n-propyl gallate is what I have used in fluorescence microscopy, but there are many anti-fading reagents, some of which may be better suited to home use. I suspect the original sample of dye may contain an anti-fading reagent, but the dilution when added to cooling systems may bring the concentration below a feasible level.

PS: I hope I'm not restating well-known data. I've only recently started reading this forum in hopes of quieting my HTPC.

Very good info, thank you! That was the most amount of technical info we've ever had here, on UV dyes.

Sprocket, if you want to try Deviant's dye, I'll chip in for the shipping. I assume that we can get more of the stuff, if it works?

Oh I'll pay for shipping, no big deal. But thank you for the offer.

Sproket,

I don't want to twist your arm. I was just trying to help. Like I said my offer stands...not to put down D-Tek (hell! I'm their main Canadian reseller lol) but to try and help solve this issue. Anyway, if you are interested, PM me with your address. If not no harm done.