The dimples really shouldn't help at all. I think I can tell ya why. There is no easy way to get water in and out into those holes. Its more of a sight trick. Do this test.. (because its easy) Mill the block without them. Then test it. Get a good base temp. The take it off, and cut the holes in it. I think you should find they are not necessary and no performace gain.
If anything they remove the copper from the hottest part and restrict the heat leaving the die area. Since they can't dissipate the heat easily it actually may hurt. IMHO. <--- (notice the imho disclaimer)
Easy way to prove me wrong there.. you should jump on it. :D

What's funny and ironic about all of this, is I've been describing a block just like this in the pro/chat for over a year now. I even have some hand drawn sketches. I just hope my other idea doesn't get thought of elsewhere before I get a chance to do it...
-Zoson

Well frankly most ideas are already been used and acted on. The difference in a performer and an non -performer is the tweaks and small things that people overlook. If you looked at Jaydee's Kingpin block <- (nice name) you could attempt to replicate it, but with small variables come out with way different numbers.

I would like to see your block zoson, then have someone compare and figure out why or what makes them different performance wise.

Most of the time was burned do to not optomizing to GNC code. I could do it in maybe 2 hours with better tooling. The only 1/8" endmill I had to use was the one I made the Lemon Block Cu with. It was already worn pretty good. It made it though. Next endmills I order are going to be 3 flute carbide instead of 2 flute. I was talking to a machinest the other day and he said use 3 flute for 1/16" and 1/8" in copper because they don't clogg up and they are much better ballanced.

I was going 1/16" each pass except the first 2 passes where 1/32" . Also 3/8" deep was a little deeper than the endmill was ment to go, but it worked. :D

If I can this down to an hour I will start selling them!

Got to get the holes figured out now...

http://www.customcomp.us/pin1.jpg

Also note I only got 2.5 hrs into the milling so far. at 1/16" it cut like a hot knife through butter. If I use a 3 flute carbide and optomize the tool path I maybe able to cut the time in half.

Jaydee,

Nice work... looks good. Yeah, if you optimize the tool path you will wear your endmills less too... :D

Jaydee, Here is another suggestion for you. Try using a 1/4" BP leave a 1/16" base.


Jon

The 3 for this project will all be 1/2" because that's what I have left to use right now. :) In the future though I will try 3/8" and use a 1/16" base. The pins need to be 3 times higher than they are wide from my experience. I don't think I can get away with 1/4" but I might try it anyway. Once these 3 blocks are done and I feel they perform well I will round up more materials and do more experimentation on different sizes.

I got to take off for the weekend. Will post back tomorrow with more pics of the block. Should have one completed by then.

Clearly it's up to Jaydee if he wishes to do before and after testing of the dimples.

But there is no problem getting water in and out. While it's true they are made with a drill and drill press they are not intended to be holes in any sense. "Dimples" are very shallow depressions in the bases surface made with only the sharply tapered tip of the drill.

And with the dimples surrounding the central pin which is tapered to a point, the water is directed at the dimples from right above and when it hits them just splashes right out, spreading on accross the base and out between other pins.

While the dimples do increase turbulence they also increase surface area for the water stream from the inlet to impact. Both increase cooling.

The roughing mill bit will do the same for thesides of the pins, greatly increase surface area.

While I don't need proofs that the dimples and roughing mill bit will improve performance it would be nice, if Jaydee has the time, to see a before and after in temps.

oh yeah, about the pumps, why use dual crappy pumps when you can use one good pump? I would say just get a danner mag#3 and you would be good to go. not worry about failure either. and spend the same or just a little more for much better.

Jon

I don't like Danner's for PC water cooling. To big, to hot, to expensive for what you get. I would go with several other brands first.

Also I can get 2 VIA 2600's for one danner of equel specs. Hell I can get a VIA 4900 (1321GPH 14ft. head) for less than a Danner 500GPH.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...=6&pCatId=8164

I also might just use my Hydrothruster 500. The flow through these blocks is going to be excellent. Another reason I went 3/8 deep".

I got 2 blocks complete and will post pics here whenever I get the cam working..... One plexy topped and one all copper.

I will be running this experiment in time. I am not going to do it with these blocks as I just want to get this project done and max performance isn't an issue.

In 2 weeks I will be able to get back on the mill and run some more stuff out. That will give me time to ge some 3 flute endmills and more copper, and that roughing endmill.

Pics of the two I got done so far.
http://www.customcomp.us/kingpinpic/001.jpg
http://www.customcomp.us/kingpinpic/002.jpg
http://www.customcomp.us/kingpinpic/003.jpg
http://www.customcomp.us/kingpinpic/004.jpg
http://www.customcomp.us/kingpinpic/005.jpg

NICELY DONE!!! :drool: :drool:

How do you calculate the channel for an O-Ring again? I just made my channel last time and filled it with a silicone sealant. I'd rather have a true O-Ring. :cry:

I just made the groove to fit around the channel and made my own O-ring. I got 10ft of O-Ring material for like $3. Just use super glue to attach both sides. :)

Or did you mean the depth? I just went 2/3" the width of the O-Ring material.

Nice work Jaydee, and some really nice close up pics of the finished work to.:cool:

Will be interesting enough for now to see how this version compares to past versions.

(We really do need a larger selection of smilies, at least a thumbs up or even better a cheers smilie for really nice work)

This weekend I will be shutting down the D.F. Farm and getting everything layed out in the Box I am building for the 3 comp project. While that is going on I will re-setup the test bench and run some tests on the Lemon Block Cu, the Maze 4, and the King Pin with plexy top and the copper top. The Copper top has a slightly larger inlet so it might make a difference. I bored the plastic barbs out to 7/16". As close as I could get to 1/2" without them lossing their strenght and collapsing.

I will be ordering some more copper and tooling tonight aswell. The weekend after this one I will be milling a couple more King Pin bllocks and something along the lines of the pic attached.

WOOOOOOOOOW!

Man, i love those glass-looking blocks...

ok jaydee,
Whats bigger? 1 danner or 2 vias? (vias of course)
what runs cooler? 1 danner or 2 vias? or even 1 via...(via of course)
Whats louder? 1 danner or 2 vias?(even 1 via is)
Whats more reliable? 1 danner or 2 vias?(you get what you pay for)

Jon

Also I might go with the Swiftech MCP600 (I like the 12V), Little Giant 2-MDQX-SC, or just use my HydroThruster 500.

In any case is will be a cold day in hell when I consider buying a Danner. Not worth what you get IMO. Would rather spend $20 more for a much better pump or $20 less for just a good of a pump.


Also note this system will require at least 2 pumps. One for the CPU blocks and one for the 3 NB and 1 GPU block.

What are you basing your asumptions on?

Jon

What assumptions?

Danner Mag Drive 5:
500GPH @ 0'
310GPH @ 4'
45watts
--------------
$42.95+shipping


VIA2600
740GPH @ 0'
310GPH @ 4'
46watts
--------------
$36.99 ($23.99 on sale)+Shipping

Little Giant 2-MDQ-SC:
510GPH @ 1'
410GPH @ 6'
96watt
--------------
$81.99+shipping

The Little Giant is what I should use. It is designed for high pressure. It is also designed to minimize heat transfer into the water unlike the Danner or the VIA which easily makes up for the extra watts burned. Also extreamly reliable. I got a month to ponder this.

btw, the danner #3 is the prime pump, same exact performance as the #5 where we use it with 10 less watts and cheaper. Just setting that strait.

35watts, $45 SHIPPED at marinedepot.com

Jon

At 0-15LPM they run about the same if I remember correctly. After 15LPM the Mag 5 gets better. I am going with the Little Giant.

http://phaestus.procooling.com/pqcurves_s.jpg
Non of these is going to work. I will need more power.

small question:

If you can't use a normal pump and get good numbers, how are you going to expect the market to recieve this if you were to sell it? I was just wondering because I thought I read somewhere you were consdering it. It seems that you must consider that eventually the efficency of the design or block must overcome the need for firefighter flow and pressure... just wondering man.

I am putting 3 of these in ONE loop plus 2 rads and about 10ft of tubing. Note the project I mentioned I am making these for. Also no plans to sell them.

this will perform better than the squares.
Diamond matrix ;)
And it wont be hard to machine.

We are going over this in another thread http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...threadid=8276. This was ment to be a chipset/GPU cooler. The design has significantly changed due to size restrictions.