I've mentioned that it is made to look like a block I've seen somewhere....please take a look at the previous page:

"This is done with CATIA V5...and is just a model of a W/B I've seen somewhere...will make a 3D model of the acrylic top and the whole assembly these days."

Yup I did read that, wasn't criticizing, but letting you know which block you had remembered =P.

It's not a bad thing, it just shows that the idea isn't bad and that it is useful if more than one person has thought of it.

-JokerF15

OK, thanks for letting me know. However, I've just visited the page from the link that you've mentioned and found out that it is NOT the W/B I've seen....those guys make simple spiral blocks, and the one I've seen is not nearly like that....will try to find the original photo.

Here's the complete assembly I've just finished....maybe we should work on some new design here since it is obvious that we have enough knowledge...let me know what you think, guys...

That isn't a correct drawing. I got a ABIT KT7A with the KT133A I brought to work and just measured it and it is identical to the KT333/KT400.

[EDIT] Well that drawing might be right. The mounting holes seem to very from board to board... But the body and die are the same regardless.

BAH!! The mounting hole pattern for the pin block is for the AMD761 NB on the Epox 8K7A. I totally forgot I used that board for the specs.

Once I get home tonight I will measure the hole pattern for the ASUS A7V8X-X. I will have to measure the pattern on the ABIT KD7 later. Those are the two boards these will be going on. When I pull the ABIT out I can then measure up the GF 440MX aswell.

Well...I don't know what to say....right now I use the very same W/B with the same clamp (mounting holes 60mm apart = 2.362") on my new NF7-S with nForce2 NB and it fits perfectly...I've modded the board so the NB is pushed up to 2.1 V and the rear face of the board right under the NB is not even warm...

I have a 3D model of a GF2...with a W/B attached (the same one I am using right now)...will send you an IGES file if you want it....

This is what I had in mind when mentioning a 3D model of a GF2 video card....

Sure. And I just confirmed the AMD 761 hole pattern on the EPOX 8K7A is also identical to the KT133A and I got 2 5/16" center to center diagnaly. I got both HS in my hand from both boards and the holes line up perfectly.

BUT on my ASUS A7V333 the hole pattern is way different! I got 2 1/16" center to center diagnaly AND the holes are NOT at the tips of the corners. I will measure up my other boards when I get home tomight...

here is a pic of my Asus A7V333 NB hole pattern.

I just confirmed my hole pattern for the Abit KT7A and the EPOX 8K7A. I cut a peice of plastic out on the laser with the deminsions in the pic. Sure is going to suck of the A7V8X-X and the KD7 have a different hole pattern. Well just more design work I guess....

Forgot to attach pic.

Well...the difference between 1.65" and 1.67" is marginal....if you have just a little bit of play between the bolt and the holes in the motherboard, it could pass unnoticed.

Of course, I'll change my 3D motherboard model according to your measurements...

OK, jaydee....how about this impossible-to-machine version of your NB waterblock...???....:)

That is pretty damn cool! It is millable but not sure I can do it. :D

Yeah it souldn't matter. I am not sure which is to specs but I know mine works. The holes line up perfectly with the HS holes. Also note this is slightly different than the first block in the zip file. I had 2.38" diagnaly on it and this one is 2.33". I am concerned about the ASUS and ABIT board i got at home which these blocks are being built for. If this ASUS A7V333 has different specs it is almost a given the ASUS A7V8X-X has the same. If that is the case I will have some remodeling to do as the holes are much tighter... Will check it out later tonight when I get a chance.

This is, maybe, going to sound silly...but are you able to swap those two MoBos for two identical ones?

Not sure I understand what you mean?

What I mean is...sell that ASUS and get another ABIT....or get two nForce2 boards...preferably ABIT....

I see. No I am sticking with what I got. I looked at pictures off newegg.com of both the boards and it looks as iff the Abit should be ok, but the Asus looks wrong. Just have to make a modified version for it.

Reading this thread is VERY interesting and informative. While I relize this may not be of great imprtance to JD as his set up will not be in a case I'd still like to add one thought.

Most GFX blocks have the barbs going in the side of the block to avoid taking up space(flow here does not impact the base, so cooling could be slightly better), or the second option I've seen used is to use 90 degree barbs intering the top and directing the flow aginst the base (flow gets hurt).

Tex707 your aid here would be very valuable as I've no real skill at depicting designs like you have.

JD's 16 pin base has got lots going for it, but cut one side of the blocks top at an angle (35-45 degree?) and install the barbs in that sloped face. My reasoning is this:

1) Flow now is directed at the blocks base giving better heat removal.

2) Barbs now clear any heat sinks you'd care to use on RAM chips. Yet they do not take up a prohibative amount of space, no more than those 90 degree type barbs, and I'd guess a bit less.

One other thought JD, why not use copper tube for the inlet/outlets as in some of your other designs for the superior flow they offer?

I will do all that's within limits of my skill and time. BTW, this is not just depicting, but full CAD.

I'm not quite sure if I understood you well enough...so here are some screenshots of the Plexi top with a threaded hole for one barb at an angle that ensures the water flow to be directed right at the center of the bottom of W/B's pocket.

.....and a cross-section and an assembly as well...don't know about the evenness of the flow with this design, though...:(

With this design, wouldn't 'hot' water get stuck in the corners underneath the angled barb (not underneath but in the corner), it seems if it comes in at an angle it points straight to the other barb.

Wouldn't that cause the rest of the waterflow to be essentially slower through the block since, water will take the least restrictive path to its destination.

Maybe i'm just wrong =).

I would try to get the barbs to come in from the top in the corners, you shouldn't have much problem implementing this on a NB block.

Now for a GPU block, I'd have the barbs come in on the top side, and have a small divider through the middle of the block creating a small channel.

Than again this are just opinions.

Pic for reference of statements i posted before.

I really can't tell about the flow...the angled barb is the inlet one, of course....we'll se what other more experienced people than me are going to say...:)

About the pic...that's the block I've seen!

The bad thing about the block that I posted is, it is not done proper, it is 3/8'' first of all (not bad, but the channel area does not calculate to 3/8'' ID hose area =\.). Looks wise it is a good block, performance wise, it kills the flow, and doesn't do the greatest job.

If done proper, I think it can be an excellent design.

Thanks.

-JokerF15

Tex 707,

Thank you for your efforts, your CAD work is really good. Most of all the transparant ones.

What I have in mind is differant. I'm sure you've seen blocks that have the inlet & oulet on one side of the block and these don't take up any space to speak of which won't then block use of extra card slots.

What I have in mind is that the side of the block where those barbs are mounted is cut at a sloped angle so the barbs would rise over the RAM higher allowing use of heat sinks. It might not be possible to cut the base at an angle as well as the top or at least not all the blocks side, so as to not affect the cooling pin area of the block & it's O-ring.

Your last two pics/drawings gave me a differant view point regarding this idea. I don't think it will work as well with the thick base involved here. I do think if it were made from a air pin sink that perhaps then it would as the base would be much thinner with the pins rising out of the thinner base. Will take some thick plexi for the top to make it work even there, but it might.

Thanks again for your fine CAD work.

Sorry for my lack of response here guys. I been having to much fun in the New DD block thread. Not to often I find someone that can make an ass of themselfs better than I can! Had to play a little.

Anyway I will be pretty much gone untill Sunday afternoon. I will try and pop in a few replies though. I got to get back to work, then pick the kid up after work, help my brother move stuff tomorrow, work on my freshly rebuilt website (which I hope tex707 will sign up to, need someone with that awsome rendering capablility!), and spend some time with the kid.

Keep up the good work guys, interesting stuff!

It looks like I'm not following you quite well...are we talking about GPU or NB waterblocks here? NB waterblocks are, AFAIK, perfect with perpendicularly mounted barbs...GPU blocks, however need barbs to be mounted parallel or at an angle.

There is a 3D model of the waterblock I am using on my video card presented on the previous page....the hoses clear the RAM heatsinks due to a pretty complicated barb mounting design. Please take a look and tell me if you are referring to that particular problem.

Thank you for the kind words regarding my CAD work...I think that I have more to offer in that field.

PostNuke, better than e107 :rolleyes:

Whatever floats your boat :shrug:

Why don't you make the gfx one like the Swiftech MCX(?) 40, with the barbs comming out the side?

To many problems with e-107. Half the stuff doesn't work and my requests for help goes unanswered. Not to mention security is not so good, and he has to update it every freeking week, which means I have to. The thing is still beta bigtime. Everything works on PostNuke, and the security of the latest release is supposed to be good. Don't have to update every week and it loads faster. :shrug: Got it on both my sites now, see no reason to change. I like the forums better with postnuke.

I don't need the barbs coming out the side on mine and it would add another 3/4" to the already 1/2" Might get a little heavy being they will be all copper. other than that sure. Danger Den has a nice side mounted one aswell..

Tex707,

Yes, I'm talking about a GPU design, I agree with you on the NB.

JD, I know the DD block your refering to and it's 45 degree angled barbs are better than the 90's some designs use. I also relize this isn't needed for your currant project. I posted it as being of possible interest to others and perhaps you as well (for the future).

I think that if the side of the block were cut at a 35-45 degree angle and then the barbs installed there it would be a improvement over many designs now out. Should offer a bit lower resistence while at the same time improveing the cooling by a small amount.

Not try'n to hijack the thread, so I'll not post any more on it, but this has offered me some things to consider. I may not have a mill to make blocks with. But I'm thinking I've enough tools to have a go at something.

Tex707

Thanks again.