I have to agree that your 3-D modeling is excellent. :D

One item... the countersunk cap screw holes will allow the top plate to fall off unless you Solder the outer cover plates to the main passage plates. I recommend soldering as it gives the most permenant and reliable seal of ANY of the methods mentioned in this thread.

Soldering the plates allows you to do some very nice cleanup and polish without taking a chance on breaking your seal. If you do find a pinhole leak somewhere... just submerge the rest of the unit in water and heat just that area and flow in some more solder, then proceed to clean up again.

Then you can use your cap screws for controlling your mounting pressure on the card instead of trying to use them to seal the blocks and potentially cracking your card or ICs. :eek:

I think that both the front and back blocks look about twice as thick as they need to be to cool this card. But I could be wrong... :p

Yes, the top will be soldered on.
If I go with acrylic I will add seperate screws just to hold the acrylic on.

The copper is thick (1.2cm including top cap) but I wanted a 8mm high channel, as I am not sure how large of a pump I will be able to fit into this project.

--------

I am designing my Athlon 64 FX51 Block right now, a new thread on that coming up....

That thing is gonna be so darn heavy...I cant wait to see it though. It is gonna look like a single giant waterblock, you wont be able to tell whats underneath it :D

Big and heavy I don't mind, it will sort of fit the style of the case I am designing.

looks very nice, but wayyyyyyy to much copper, especially on the back.

im quite nervous with my card, and thats just a 9700pro with a maze4gpu.

get rid of everything you dont need.

That's, like.... uhmmm, the coolest thing i've ever seen w\ respect to waterblocks!

Sorry for off-topic:

JFettig, can you draw me an image with AutoCAD based on the geforcefxdim.jpg? I just can't scale the pic to the background and that makes a heck of a problem. I would need the holes, mem chips and the core on the right place.

On-topic:

ZapWizard, some really cool images! :drool:

I hope to see that "realtime raytraced" soon ;)

Nope, I dont have the images either. If zapwizard could just send me something I can import to autocad, like the drawing of the card It would help.

Jon

It's unfinished, but not sure if its any use, I'd mapped out the card, (5900U) GPU / Ram and all card holes in the reference, (creative make).

If you view the large linked image in paint, (and zoom to large scale), the card is scaled as 1 pixel = 0.1mm divided by 2

http://www.zerofanzone.co.uk/picture...cardspecs1.gif

JFettig, looks like I don't need it after all. I got some graph paper and printed out that geforcefxdim.jpg (can be found at: http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=8412, bigben2k's 3rd post). The image is almost 1:1, just some really tiny differences, so I think that the error margin is very little. Just have to draw the block now, and need to find a guy who can translate that image into an AutoCAD drawing.

It's only a matter of money, it costs me less if the image is in electronic form. The guy who actually manufactures the block for me, needs to input the coordinates from the paper to the CNC mill instead of importing acad file.

Let's see what I can do :).

@ BladeRunner : Can you give 1:1 picture here please.

I am planing to do WB for my 5900LX and i would need 1:1 picture. If you have it.

Tnx

I don't have a autocad file for the card, but I do have a COB file.
(trueSpace3 format) trueSpace3 is a free download, you can use it to export my file to what ever you need.

5950 Card COB File

BTW, this looks like a go.
I am getting my hands on some copper, and I have access to a manual milling machine.

So it looks like this will end up hand milled like Bladerunner's block.

I have TS3. But the scene is empty?

bladerunner, do you have something similar to that but from the 9800 reference?

ahem i posted the original 5900 dim image :D

those are directly from nvidia ;) so dim are about as perfect as you can get let me look around for the CAD file

EDIT: I think this is it ftp://www.brandtshaft.com/dima/geforcefx5900dim.dwg

dima v, that's JUST THE ONE i've been looking for! Thank you very much! I really appreciate this. And sorry for that jpg image poster information ;)

Now... let's get to work, there's a waterblock waiting for manufacturing!

Some history....... I was sent some original images from Gainward under NDA when I was working on the CoolFx project. They were of an earlier 5900u rev that was about an inch longer than the final card. I completely rescaled the dimensions I got as they were in a weird points on a graph type scaling that wasn't much use to me.

As Gainward couldn't source me a real card at the time to use I printed out the image continually modifying the size until I eventually got it to match the gold fingers of a real AGP card. It was a rough way to do it, but from that printed image I made this fake card:-

http://www.zerofanzone.co.uk/project...y_card005s.jpg

I used this fake card to help design and make a cooler, (that is linked too at the beginning of this thread). The whole CoolFx project moved on and went in another direction with Innovateks input. It was pleasing to later find I got my fake card pretty close as the heatsinks from the Creative card fitted my dummy :p

I then recently mapped that image in my previous post directly from an FX 5900U retail version, (Creative boxed). It was all measured out by hand using Snap-on digital callipers, and the measurements divided by 2 (this was simply because it would have been to huge on my screen at 1 pixel per 0.1mm.). To see it pixel by pixel you need to look at the linked image (not the displayed image), View it in MS Paint- view - zoom - large size. To finish it I'll put mm measurements from the top and back edge to locate all hole centres and chip positions. I plan to do this to 9800 Pro sometime but its still being used atm, and it takes some time to do, is quite tedious, (needs double checking etc).

I guess what people want is a print outable diagram true card size. I can't see this is possible as it will depend on pixel size of the screen the image is displayed on and or the printer it's printed out on.

I think the best way, (assuming its possible), is to laser map the card on a high quality CNC or something similar, but I don't have such facilities....... yet :D

Okay... I got two pics, from early stage of the block.

http://koti.mbnet.fi/fiiu/misc/blocktop.jpg
http://koti.mbnet.fi/fiiu/misc/blockbottom.jpg

This design is inspired by Bladerunner and ZapWizard, and it might really look like it was totally ZapWizard's design ;)

Hope the images work with you, it would be nice to receive some feedback. Good, bad or the ugly one.

The 1.6mm step is not made yet, got to work it out at the weekend.

i would pair the memory chips together so there is no "channel" between the each pair of chips

PDF is not perfect, but can get prety darn close iirc.

Fiiu : Nice WB!

I just wonder, wouldnt be better if you had pins or something instead of two turns, where GPU is?

So the cooling surface would be bigger?

The file is an object, open an empty scene the load it as an object file.


Fiiu, that looks good, but most of the credit goes to Bladerunner.

But you have shown me where I can remove quite a bit of copper from my own design.

I will update my renderings with a little more copper shaved off.

/Edit, I just realized something.
I was finding a hard time removing copper from the block as to me, it looked ugly with so many holes.
But then I thought, why not drill tons of holes into the bottom layer of the block to remove weight, and then simply attach the cap without any holes.
The weight of a 2mm cap will be negligable once the weight is removed below it.
This will allow for a nice solid looking block, without all the holes showing.

Bladerunner,

I use Visio at work... it's as close as you can get to true scale without using AutoCAD or similar. I use it a LOT to do my designs. It has provisions for dimension objects too. 8-D

Here is a sample I did that was a screen capture.

http://pages.sbcglobal.net/mmz_tl_01...tion-block.gif

Again... when you print directly from Visio, it uses the printer settings to get the scale correct (okay... 99% correct).

Hope that helps...

Here is a rendering showing holes drilled to loose weight.

Yet the cap is solid.

http://server5.uploadit.org/files2/090104-Holes.jpg

The hard part I guess will be making sure that the solder in place is water tight.
But if it were to have a leak, the block could be flipped over and solder added to fix the leak (by insterting solder into the holes in the back)

Anyone think this is a good idea?

Yeah, if it fixes the leak, than it is fine. And it cannot be seen from top side ;)

While waiting on the bulk of my copper I was able to get my hands on a 2mm Plate.
Good enough for one of the caps on the waterblock.

http://www.zapwizard.com/laserpc/5950/copper.jpg

Since I will be hand milling this block I came up with a good way of laying down a template direclty on the copper.

------------

http://www.zapwizard.com/laserpc/5950/painted.jpg

First the copper is sprayed with Vinyl dye
(As it was what I had lying around)
It i will also come off very easy later.

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http://www.zapwizard.com/laserpc/5950/Top-plate.jpg

I then made an exact 1:1 image of the template area.

------------

http://www.zapwizard.com/laserpc/5950/template.jpg
And then used a laser etching machine to etch away the paint.
(A the machine can't etch into the copper but can burn the paint away)

The same technique could be done by simply printing a tempate on thick paper, then spray painting the tempate onto the copper.


In reality the template is only good for the edges, as the holes will be drilled though later all at once, to make sure they are aligned.
But this will help with the actual channeling later.

Okay, here's some more pics, finally. Looks like this will be the final design, hope that the mill can do it like I want to.

http://koti.mbnet.fi/fiiu/misc/block_water.jpg
http://koti.mbnet.fi/fiiu/misc/block_step.jpg
http://koti.mbnet.fi/fiiu/misc/block_step2.jpg

(total of 40k for the three pics)

The lid is not in the pic, there will be only the hose connectors, "elbow" type. The block will be easy to manufacture because there is no pins to be made. (Maybe in rev. 2, if there ever will be such design :p)

Can't wait for this to get milled!

if you dont want your card to be permanently bent out of shape (i have one like that) you will want to make the waterblock as light at possible remember water that fills the blocks weights something

Also there are capacitors (brown in color) that are taller then the dimms, you need to make cutouts for these.

There are 5 of these near each set of two memory chips.
Also the little silver/gold crystal directly left of the core is the same height as the dimms.

I choose to just add some shims to the copper rather then mill out spots for other components.

http://www.zapwizard.com/laserpc/5950/water-3.jpg

And back to the drawing board. There's some "copper" to be shaven off, have to draw a better one. Only thing I'm concerned that if I mill something out from the middle of the block, will the compression of the screws outside be enough to keep it tight? There needs to be at least one screw at the inside area of the block, right?