One problem we were trying to solve was finding a heater core that:
- fit in a reasonable sized case
- works with cooling works shroud (so 6" to 6.25" L and H)
- had inlet/outlet that would work with 1/2" ID tubing with minimum modification (cut off, maybe)
- was not made of aluminum
- (optional) was really cheap

One possible solution was the heater core for the 71 mercury Montego w/air
Here's a picture of the Balkamp (BK 6603012 at napaonline) $42
http://www.napaonline.com/images_pro..._sized/270.jpg
Looks like maybe there's enough straight run before the bends - so they could be cut off just before the bends and end up with a no-soldering no-goop decent 6x6 radiator (which would be perfect if I had a beader - but I don't).

Here's a picture of the one from A1 injectors
http://www.a-1injectors.com/images/heatercore/94593.jpg
Note how the tubes angle immediately (no straight run). This is a drawing, so, was the artist lazy or does this actually not have short straight runs before a bend? I'm guessing that the artist got it right...

Here's the one by 4Seasons
http://www.wrenchead.com/wh_mem/html...ages/94593.jpg
Doesn't look like any usable straight run here, either, does it?

With the drawing of the one at rock auto it's even harder to tell what the tubes are doing.
http://www.rockauto.com/ref/GoDan/399035.jpg

Sure wish the local auto parts store had these in stock so I could look at 'em (not a lot of '71 Mercury Montegos on the streets around here, though...) Failing that, I'd guess the one to go with is the Balkamp.

I think this core meets your criteria
 

I found this core at AutoZone for $18.99 and it is big enough to cool a compound waterblock setup easily.

1990 Chevy Caprice Heater core

Detailed Product Information
Description: Heater Core
Part Number: 94530

Dimensions : Height 9-1/2" Width 6-5/16" Depth 2"
Hose Connection Tube Sizes: Inlet 5/8" Outlet 3/4"
Vehicle and OEM Types: GM: 3022696, 3036422

Only problem I see with it is the tubes are oval where they join the tank, but if you are mounting the 1/2" barbs on the tubes there should be no problem.

Bingo!
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_.../FEC/2-224.jpg
Fedco 2-224 heater core $29.98 at PartsAmerica
Looks like it should work with the coolingworks shroud, inlet/outlet clearly have a perpendicular-to-the-core run before bending, appear to be round section.

EDIT: Just ordered one from PartsAmerica $36.51 to my door. Will be out of computer touch until Monday-next, but will try to post results then. Blackstealth, sorry for the delay - this is the best I can do for you...

Question is, Is there a Heater core that's about 13.25"x6.125"x2" in size? That would be better I would think than Your normal 6.125"x6.125"x2" heater core.

Yep, that's a good question - just wasn't the one I was trying to answer. For extra credit, find one that's single pass and that has inlet/outlet tubes that we can use use with minimal modification (so hopefully they come straight out from the core for 1.5 or more before they bend).
Non-aluminum would be good (so stay away from cores for cars with aluminum blocks) - at least for the water passageways.

I think there's been some posting about this already (sorry, don't remember where, pretty sure it was this forum, though).

Danger Den does sell one that gets close at just: 11" x 6 1/8" x 2" in size. And of course It's reasonably priced to Me at $34.99 plus shipping(If any?). Here's an image of It and a link to the larger image of the two.

http://www.dangerden.com/images/heat...er_core_sm.jpg

Looks pretty good.
Any idea what diameter those tubes are? I'd almost prefer they not solder in barbs if the tubing is something I can get 1/2" ID tubing over somehow.
Did you get one? Get the shroud too? Any idea how far it'd be from fan blades to core fins (they don't have a photo of the shroud they sell for this core - the shrouds for 6x6 cores are - IMHO of course - too close).
Oh - and yeah, the price is nice, too...
Bob

While I'm at it, there's the fedco 2-342
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_.../FEC/2-342.jpg
$29.98 plus shipping at PartsAmerica.
It's a single-pass with inlet/outlet at opposite corners, 9.5"x6.25"x2", so two 120mm fans per side will fit (I'd just put 'em on the "pull" side, but that's me)
The inlet and outlet are 5/8" and 3/4", but you can see that the 3/4" part is just a bulge that you'll end up tossing when you cut these down.
The core's for a 69-72 Chevy truck - they called this stuff American iron for a reason - as in iron block, so very likely copper water contact surface.
The DangerDen core you mentioned above might be slightly longer 6 1/8" x 2" - but these are dimensions including tanks) and slightly narrower but the fin area is probably about the same.
Bob
PS: This was much easier to find than the 6x6x2...

They can be Ordered in 1/2" Tubing or 3/8" Tubing, Me I'd go for the 1/2" (ID or 3/4" OD) Tubing Myself. Sorry I'd have to ask, But I assume the shrouds are what They have pictured and I think what They sell are about 1/4" thick or so. And Yeah It would be close, Other shrouds could possibly fit with some modifications possibly I'd imagine, But I don't know for sure. Sorry, No I didn't get one, As right now I have more important things to pay for, Like the repairs to the house My brother owns (I live in It too and I have Durable Power of Attorney over the Checking Account of His(It was needed, Otherwise He would have nothing to return too), With His permission freely given to this of course) So while He's in the Hospital/Rest Home for Lung Cancer/Nuemonia. And so the Damage to the Mobile Home due to the Termites is being repaired and Other much needed Repairs are made that have been put off for almost too long by Him and I shall rectify that in short order. In either September or October I'll be able to buy all the parts for water cooling that I need as I will finally have enough funds from My checking account then to do so. He('s on Disability/Retired) and I('m on SSI) are both disabled of course and He's retired from the US Navy. June is going to be a tight month as almost too much is being done at once, But July through September will be Better, And I plan on getting this House whipped into shape by then.

HeY!! Bob thanks for your help :) And sorry for the late reply, I was kinda busy with my graduation. I saw all the links that you posted about the HC , sounds interesting I am still thinking to order one but I think I should stick with the one I have. I really don’t wanna spend a lot in my WC set-up. I will try the BeCooling HC and will see how it works out, later on I can do what ever I feel that could help for better temps. I also tried to mount the shroud on the HC, I probably have to mod the top of the shroud. But that is not a problem; I could clean up around the two threads that are on the tank of the HC. That way I probably could mount the Shroud without modding it, its too nice to be moded :)

Okay my case modding is going very well I fitted the Plexiglas and need some minor modification to the PG and it should be good to go. I am also waiting for the D-TeK Customs White water to come out :(“I really have no clue about it! If anyone knows an approximate day that it should come out” I really can’t wait till I finish my first WC setup. I was also thinking of the Silver prop cyclone 2.5 I received the Fusion HL it rocks with smooth lapping. Sorry for the delay of the pictures I will try posting them tonight or tomorrow.

Well the SDX as I'd like to call It or as Danger Den calls It, The S-TDX makes the White Water look like an antique as the WW will flow at 2.15GPM (max.) and the S-TDX will flow at 3.05GPM from what I've read and the silver unit cools the best getting a 2500+ Barton to do over 2.9Ghz(see below), That's 400Mhz or so faster than what I do on Air alone. The Comparison/Review is at the link below. But to get the 3.05 You need a pump that will do no less than 300GPH. I'm thinking a 1260 (a relay will be needed) pump or so will be required at the very least, I would have liked to use the MCP600v2(a 12v pump), But It only puts out 160GPH, I've yet to see a 12vdc 300GPH pump from the likes of swiftech, It would be nice If Danger Den could sell/make one, But that's life for You.

http://www.procooling.com/reviews/ht...block_revi.php
http://reviews.pimprig.com/cooling/d...tdx_blocks.php

Sounds like a very good plan.
I'd still suggest contacting becooling and giving them a chance to make good. A lot of their current/potential customers read this forum and IMHO it's a bit unfair to not at least give 'em a chance - and post the results of that as a follow-up.

If you're judging simply by flow rate, then, yes, it flows very well. Given a powerful pump you might get it to outcool a whitewater (the c/w/flow numbers are lower, but, as you said, you can flow more).

However, setting up a system is like engineering in that there are a number of trade-offs and compromises between various factors. If you add low-noise as a factor (so a quiet, modest flow pump) then this block becomes IMHO an inappropriate choice.

The review you're referencing (pimprig) doesn't seem to mention pump head, velocity, coolant temp. Maybe that's in the graphs I can't reference because I'm behind privoxy (anti-web-nasty filter)?

I'm surprised they can get a 2500+ to go 2.9MHz. I'd suggest you not plan on getting the same results. I'm also wondering how usable/stable that 2.9MHz system is.

The block certainly is pretty, though, isn't it? Assuming you have a case-window or something so folks can gaze at it...

My guess is that there is going to be a bunch of "conversation" around this block - why not "start a topic" rather than change this thread? More folks'll see it that way...

Ok, Will do.

picture 1
picture 2
picture 3
picture 4
picture 5
Those are the links to the pictures. Those pictures speak for Themselves.

Nice Huge pics, My 3Mbs connection handled them with ease. But to see them without scrolling from side to side I shrank them in Firefox 0.8+ down to 400x300 temporalily.

HeeY Guyz I was wondering will the Danger Den TDX work well with the Swiftech MCP6000 Pump? The first plan was to go with D-TeK White Water but I see no updates or an specific day for the blocks to come out. I also got my Silverprop GPU block so do you think the combiniation should work well?
Thank You
ALi

From What I've read the TDX & S-TDX will need a pump in excess of 300GPH to cool properly, THe MCP600 will only do 160GPH, But You could try It If You want, It's You cash. :cry: :cry: I thought Swiftech had an MCP600, I didn't know they had an MCP6000. :cry: :cry:

Oh and back to the Shrouds, I found a website that shows the shroud on a heatercore, Wait till You get down to Cloud Strife, He/She has It hooked up to a Black Ice Extreme, But then It's Black and Blue all over. :shrug: :shrug:


http://forums.infoprosjoint.net/show...?t=5532&page=2

Also the S-TDX costs $124.95 each from Danger Den, Now as to whether anyone else will carry It is debatable right now, But the Copper version of course is another matter.

http://www.dangerden.com/images/tdx/...mdluc_100h.jpg

http://www.dangerden.com/mall2/more.asp?fmmore=212

Ohhh do you mean the copper will be good or what ?
sorry but didn't get you.
Sorry
ALi

I should have said that the Copper version will be carried by Other online stores, Like FrozenCpu, But as to the Silver version I don't know Yet If only Danger Den will be the only one to sell the Silver version or not. I'm sure that both are very good Temp wise, It's just that Silver is better than copper and that gold is better than silver, But since gold is too weak structurally and also from a cost stand point, Like near $380.00 per ounce, Versus $5.80 per ounce or so, It's either Silver or Copper. Gold though is for the fools as a pure form would be really super super heavy, Beyond Copper in Weight to the point of being worthless.

Yeah that’s true nice write up! By the way this is my first WC setup by tha way. But I am researching as much as I can to get the best of the best or at least something that will work out positively as a first time. I think I will just go for the Copper top. I spent just too much on my WC setup to get the silver.
Do you think I should just go ahead and order tha thing? I will also try working more on my website so I can post all my results on there. I also have lots of pictures of every single mod I have don to my PC. From Air cooled to WC.

Me I'm aiming for the Silver version as It cools the Best from what I've read, It has the Option of a Brass Top($6.00) instead of the Clear Top and Different Jets($2.00), But It does seem to have the requirement of a high volume pump(min. 300GPH?), But I don't think the Other Jet sizes were tested, So I think the TDX series of Blocks have been only tested with the Stock Jet size so far and so I think the Jury is still out as to whether a 160GPH pump would be effective or not, To Me at least this is what is going on here. The Copper TDX is $52.95, The Difference between Copper and Silver so far is about 2c to 3c in Temperature. Not to mention, That one is $52.95 and the other one is $124.95 or $72.00 Difference in cost betwen the two, So What would You rather have? 2c to 3c less cpu Temperature or $72.00. That is what It all boils down to. :D :D And Yes go buy the Copper version If that is what You can afford, Or You could wait a month and save up for It (the Silver version), Unless You are really strapped for cash, In which case, Go for It (the Copper version).

Gold also has bad thermal transfer, doesnt it?

128 j/K vs 385 j/K, doesnt that mean that the copper can absorb a lot more heat before heating up than the gold?

i'd wait for a review of the silver version by someone with a reliable setup before making your decision iiwy.... i suspect the true difference will be a lot less than 2C ....

Here's a comparison between the RBX,S-TDX,TDX,WW: http://reviews.pimprig.com/cooling/d...tdx_blocks.php

While the MCP600 has a lower unrestricted flow rating, you guys have to realize that it's head rating will push more water through a restrictive system than most high-flow pumps will. The pressure drop of a block like the RBX/TDX/etc will affect a high-flow pump more than the MCP600, because of head ratings.

The only piece that I have yet to fully decide on is a rad. In fact, I was trying to find a review/comparison of the D-Tek JR-120 when I came across this thread. :D

Criticool is a 5min train ride from my place, so I'll be getting the Fusion HL and the RBX (brass top) from them. Might get their reservoir too, but we'll see. Best Canadian place I've found for the MCP600 is from Bigfoot Computers, since they have free shipping for Canada on this piece.

..... i said a reliable setup ;)
TDX-Silver (#4 nozzle)
http://www.overclockers.com/articles1027/
TDX (#4 nozzle)
http://www.overclockers.com/articles1022/

according to this the performance is virtually identical - certainly not sufficiently better to justify the extra $ imho

Well the silver seems slightly superior to Me and that is what It all comes down to, Personal preference, Although to qoute part of the article:

As to the difference between silver and copper, I found the silver base to be more consistent (lower standard deviation of test results) than the copper version, with essentially the same C/Ws. One could argue that as such, silver has a slight performance advantage over copper, but not overwhelmingly so.

And as such in overclocking an XP (Barton XP-M 2500+ in My case) Cpu to It's limit(whatever that may be), I would need to remove every last erg of excess temperature from the cpu to do so possibly. But It would be My choice. I already know the cpu that I have will overclock to a higher level than what I have now attained, It just isn't reachable with Air right now as far as I can tell.

Besides, What else do I have to spend My monthly ssi (disability) check on besides Rent(To My brother, It includes Food too), Verizon, AT&T and Charter Pipeline? My brother with whom I live with does the rest and that is a lot.

WTF, I look away from overclockers.com for a couple hours, and they put up a new article on the TDX-S?! :eek:

That pimprig article I found was the only one I came across, so I posted it up.

So far, the slight increase (still need more reviews, comparisons, etc) doesn't justify doubling the cost. Materials would definately drive up the price, and the coolness factor is there.

Personally, I don't see any reason to go with the TDX over the RBX. Some people don't like having a Y connector, and that's fine for them.