Actually, the Soviets used a mercury-bismuth cooled reactor design in some of their submarines in I think the early 70's. The "advantage" was that since the moderator is so much denser, the overall reactor size shrinks, and you can use a much denser core. You get a higher reactor P/W ratio that way. As a matter of fact, the U used in all naval reactor fuel rods is supergrade...better than weapons grade in enrichment. Anyways, not only is it toxic, but the bismuth component is a pretty inert solid at room temp. In other words, you could never turn the reactor off or else the coolant would "freeze" in the reactor, and you would have basically a inert, unworkable toxic disaster. Commies do the weirdest things without fully thinking through the consequences! Just had to throw some useless trivia in here...sorry.

That's funny...my buddy got the album two days ago and I listen to it every day to work this week so far! I thought they were Brits... :rolleyes:

updated text file

I think its an excellent article. The only problem is that the reader doesn't know the writers reputation. Who can you beleive nowadays. Everything is pretty much based on hands on experience, and see it to beleive it.

Opinions.

- maybe further detail on pump head height: For every 90 degree elbow add a foot, for every WB add a foot, etc. etc. Something like that.

- T-line part about being at top. Now, when someone who doesn't know better reads this part, he/she is gonna think to fill the system with the T-line at the bottom and wonder why it's not filling up properly.
Maybe go into explanation that air will travel to the highest point of the system.
T-Line doesn't need a cap on it just as long it's at the highest point of the system. yada yada yada.

- Another downfall of Mercury. (Besides the obvious POISONOUS part) Has the ability to expand rapidly. Needs excessive open space to allow for expansion.
No big deal.

Good job overall.

look at the disclaimer at the top of the article

I am not going to make guesses like that, especially when different styles of fittings make for different pressure drops. thanks for the idea though


Mine's at the bottom, fills fine. Fill to top, turn on pump, keep filling until no more bubbles.

T-line doesn't need a cap even if it's at the lowest point in the system, better go read that myth again.

thanks for the input

I agree with T-line being at the bottom being fine. Have a 5/8" T on the inlet to my pump at the bottom of the case on one of my systems. Allows for easy filling. Turn the pump on and just keep pouring water in - the pump pushes the water through the loop. The top of the T-hose can happily sit below the top of the water cooling loop.

lol.

Your defineately seeing things then.

There must be slightly different gravitational pull in florida after the hurricane.

Water will always, always level out exactly horizontal. Your trying to tell me that your system is completely full and the T-Line tube is open and hanging at the bottom of your system and no water comes out??

Either one of us is not clarifying, or one of us lives underwater.

Post pictures.

Mars - go fill up a bucket full of water

Take a glass - submerse it totally in the bucket.

While the glass is underwater turn it upside down and lift the bottom of it out of the water surface.

Let me know if the water pours out before the opening of the glass is clear of the water surface.

Same principle.

My tee line is not the highest point either, no water comes out.

http://www.anonforums.com/builds/bla...mps/pumpf2.jpg

http://www.anonforums.com/builds/bla...ost/pumps1.jpg

haha, the article helps one of our very own!

Gravity rocks like that. :)

Pumps & EM Fields
 

I'm not sure if this is fact or fiction but I've heard people say that placing your pump too close to your HDD is liable to cause data corruption. Perhaps clarifying this would be a good addition to your wc myths.

And incidentally hello to everyone .....be nice, I'm new ;)

'tis total and utter fiction.

Unsure of the exact figures as I've forgotten them by now, but basically the magnetic effort required to flip a bit on a hard drive platter is really quite high, and the disk drive heads only achieve this by sitting ~1 micron or so above the platter. The amount of magnetic force being applied by the write head at that level is about equal to a rare-earth magnet, which is about 50x stronger than your average "fridge" magnet.

At even the 1cm distance from the platter to get to the casing of the hard drive, since magnetic field strength drops proportionally to the distance squared, we're talking about a magnet force needing to be about 100 million times stronger than a the write head to achieve data corruption.

Since the pump is typically about 10cm away from the hard-drive, we're now talking a magnetic field necessary to corrupt data to be about 10 billion times stronger than the disk write head. That sort of magnetic field strength is something you'd notice as anything ferro-magnetic that got within about 10 meters of the pump would get sucked to the pump with tremendous force.

Last I check, pump's magnetic fields weren't causing me to dodge flying metallic objects in my room - but I could be wrong...

damn, I guess that explains why things were flying around the basement, I had BOTH the pumps on!

I don't know if this counts as a 'myth', but how about a comment regarding which (if any) has the best flow: a t-tube, inline res, or integral-to-pump res.

depends on the t-line, res, and integral to pump res in question I'd imagine


now, how about that $100, eh guys?

If i had to 'stab in the dark' i'd say that the res/pump would have the best flow. A non-restricted inlet on the pump would be the big part for a res combo, im sure... feel free to rip me apart if you like.

Tim, im putting this up at a forum that I moderate, with full credits of course. I assume you have no problems with this. Cheers :)

I'd agree, but again, depends on design of each

no problem with you posting it, though I'd appreciate a link!

I can register at the forum and post it if you'd like

Your T-line is also not at the bottom of the case and open.

I agree, if your FILLING UP your system with the PUMP ON and your T-Line is on the INLET of the pump, the pump will push the water through, and shouldn't worry about an air lock. I've done this countless times. Let the pump do the work.

I'm not gonna sit in front of a computer to argue. And I didn't mean for me to be sarcastic.

I like to see it to beleive it. If a person cannot show me that an 'Open T-Line at the bottom of your case will not leak water' than I am gonna do it myself. I have a spare heatercore, pump, waterblock and I am gonna orient them in a box at specific heights as it would be in a computer case. More truth comes out through hands on experience than it would through pages of a notebook. The conclusion, if need be, will have jpegs.

Heck, what I'll even do is mount the radiator in my car upside down and see if I can still fill it that way. Ha!

Open - meaning unplugged? Sure it works. How do you think the water got put in there in the first place?

It doesn't pour out. Because the rest of the loop is air-tight, there is no way for air to get in and displace the water already in the loop. Since there is no air displacing the water, the water stays where it is - inside the loop.

you're getting a little rediculous.

here's a pic for you, no cap, pump not running.

Holy shit I just realized that there are THREE D4's in there... What's your flow like? And where's you rmotherboard?

Make sure the rest of the system is completely sealed. Also, if you turn it upside down then the water will flow out displacing air and be replaced by air. It's useless to turn it upside down. It's a vacuum in there other than water. The air is not as dense as water so it can't move through the water and create something other than a vacuum.

I see that he fixed that. I think his e-mail sig used to be Joe@overclockers.com which was very confusing to say the least seeing as that wasn't his e-mail address.

That will not work. :rolleyes:

The top of the water line in the T-Line tube needs to be upright or air will be allowed to pass by and break the seal. If greenman took the t-line tube in his pic and pulled it down farther the water would not make a solid connection around the entire tube and air would be allowed in which in turn will make the water come out.

I have done this numourous times but I still always like the T-Line to be higher than the rest of the system for 2 reasons.

1) What if a leak happened? Pump casing or gasket fails? Hose clamp not on well? Ooops, water all over the place. Make sure it is capped when finished filling.

2) I find that air bleeds much faster when the t-line is higher than the rest of the system. Maybe that can be a myth, but my personal experience shows it is true.

I just thought of another myth! (Closer to a flame, but whatever)

"Liquid3D has some sort of clue what he's talking about"


^Spam

tis the truth, but not easy with top-mounted radiators.

Sure, wasn't knocking your system or anything. Got to do what you got to do. :cool:
My next system may have the fill tube on the rad itself. I was thinking about installing it like you have it there and drilling a hole ontop of one of the tanks and another hole through the case and solder on a copper or brass pipe with a threaded end for cap. The pipe will stick up just far enough above the top of the case to fit the cap on.