I like it.

The fins definitely don't need to be that big, of course!

It would have to be assembled, possibly brazed, it really can't be machined. It could be built as-is, but with a clear top, and barbs on either side, and lights, and...:drool:

Actually, I think it's pretty comical. I asked a while back at another forum if anyone had enclosed an SK6 with a water jacket. Someone actually had, but not in the manner I would have preferred. As noted, you would want flow moving parallel with the fins and this design didn't really address that.

Because of the differences between air and water, the fins of such a block for water use should be comparatively shorter and thicker than for use with water. It still comes back to balancing flow loss and velocity, conduction through the metal, surface area for the water, etc., etc.

Reference here.

I think there is a pretty important difference between that attempt myv65, and my idea - on the one you linked to the space directly over the CPU is empty - where the heatsink clip would normally be. In my proposed one, that is where all fins start from. I've tried to optimize the points I think are most important with it, and I can't come up with anything better...

1. As little copper as possible between the water and the core
2. As much surface area as possible between the copper and the water
3. Good copper paths to conduct heat quickly away from the core - without insulating the core in a mass of copper.
4. As little resistance to water-flow as possible

With air cooling the heat spreads throughout the heatsink very fast compared to how much heat is dissipated into the air. With water-cooling, as long as fresh cool water is in supply we don't need that much heatsink material to spread it out.

I almost think the best waterblock would be the one that is perfectly straight, with no regard for surface area - just put maximum flow-rate over a piece of copper virtually hair-thin to keep the CPU dry (as close as you can get to just putting water on the core itself) - but after reading of a few attempts at water right on the core, I think it works better with some type of metal heat spreader.

Cova,

Yeah, I like your idea better. That SK6 mod I linked was not mine and not done in the way I would like. I would be interested in hearing how yours turns out if you give it a go.

Afraid I don't have the tools or materials to even attempt building such a thing. Perhaps Volenti will try something like this inside his dual-block and we'll get an idea how it works.

Yea that is the reason why I made that block the way I did, but I'm having trouble sourcing a suitable small copper heatsink that I can "imbed" in the block and push a stupid amount of water through.

I've looked closley at that zalman cooler several times. I may try to make something based on a similar principle but with thicker fins, probably 1mm or a bit thicker depending on what copper stock I can dig up, Cova must have been reading my mind when he drew that picture, since that's almost exactly how I'd like to make it.

I also fully agree with Cova's 4 principles, we'll see if I can fullfill them with the next block revision...

I've always had the idea of something like that in the back of my mind. Zalman/Thermalright/Dynatron/Coolermaster and even more manufacturers would all be possible to use.

I own a Dynatron 60fin heatsink, what I would do would be something like what I've attached. It would be about 90mm x 60mm, the width is due to the twin 1/2" barbs. My main concern is leaking

forgot the image

forgot the image. It's a whole 4kb!

Thanks for tips Fixitt and Sanjuro. (why, oh why, do you still use imperial instead of metric system :rolleyes:)
bigben2k, I'm not using aluminium, for outer block, I'll use plexy, with cone soldered to copper base but on curcumference not the bottom, the bottom of the cone will be in direct contact with cpu die. First results this weekend, if I get some time to make plexy blocks this friday.

The WC company i've worked for, used blocks that looked like this inside:
Very effective design! Inlet in one end, and outlet in the other, no mazes, spirals and stuff, just a HUGE surface area.

How is all that stuff attached to the block? Can't tell from the pic.

Bob

As I remember it, it was soldered with silversolder (or whatever it is called in english - anyway, the heattransfer between the fins and the baseplate was equal or better that pure copper, because of the silversolder (or whatever it's called:)
More pics attached for the interested:

Front view:

very cool stuff in this thread, myv65 explination of thermal properties of Cu and Al was fantastic. I hope you are teaching thermodynamics somewhere, cause that was one of the best deffinitions I have seen.

my own TOP-NOTCH-BLOCK....

If I may :D

http://3rotor.dns2go.com/images/Chip...k/DCP04689_sml

is my tested and trusted way to get the best heat transfer possible with minimal effort and machinery ... It also incorporates VDFC technology.

I appreciate the vote of support. It's my wife that is the teacher, however (and Spanish at that). I manage an engineering department and limit my teaching to coworkers and visitors of forums such as this one and AMDMB.

Ok I've made up a central peice to insert into position in the water block where the core contacts, comments/opinions?

dunno if this his anything to do with it, but this block just seems like utter crap. is about the same principle as some of u are trying. what is wrong with this block then:
http://www.hardocp.com/article.html?art=MzI5

the designs poorly implemented and poorly manufactured, it's made of alloy instead of copper, has low flow with those small 3/8'' connectors, most of the water flow will by-pass the bottom of the block where it's needed, ect, it's just shit.

A cross-drilled alloy block would handily out perform it let alone a copper one.

Anyway, I and the other DIY'ers activley exprimenting with new designs already have either commercial or traditional style DIY blocks to compare to, if what we come up with performs worse than what we already have than we can figure out why it performs worse and modify the design accordingly.

I'd file down/cut off some of that copper in the base of the fan part. Preferably so that the bottom two fins have about as much clearance over the WB base as there is space between the fans as you go around the fan.

How would you be able to successfully put the "fan" into a waterblock? It is soldered together, so if you solder it you risk letting those blades spread apart. It would be extremely hard to glue into some acrylic as well. At least a leak free glue... I really like the idea, i just cannot think of a good way to implement it.

\ \ / / <<-- What about a block like this? with water flowing into
\__/ the channel. You would only have 1 right angle, and maximum die contact.

I think brazing might fix that.

You mean like melting the copper together with a real mans torch?

I think you'd have to solder it down - find some creative way to attach a clamp to the base of the fan part to hold it together, and just melt all the solder in the entire thing with a torch or something with it sitting on the WB base-plate. And I'm not sure how well solder conducts heat, so it should be as thin a layer as possible between the fan-thing and the base.