davidzo

the low flow rate performance of the Innovatek was quite excellent at the time of its introduction
designs evolve, performance improves
(and yes, the Innovatek corrodes just like . . . . well, aluminum !)

if you have not dealt with Cathar's wb, you do not yet know 'the competition'
read this Commercial Waterblock Test: The White Water
incidently, this wb is made in Australia

ahem, offshore marketing is rather more than indicating the shipping cost

i'm located in germany .. so if someone is interested in a man-in-the-middle transfer let me know ..

-I really agree, thats how i wrote in my posting i think

oh yes, so i really missunderstood you, please don't care, my english is horrible...
croatia? so you come from croatia and not from the US?
-ok, i found it yesterday a short time after i posted this... but i wanna have look inside... i just registerd at overclockers australia, but damn, how long does an registration e-mail take from australia straight across the whole globus to germany? :D

@W1zzard: Ich hoffe das es nicht nötig ist einen "mann in der mitte" zu haben, ich habe eingesehen das ich nen bisschen agressiv was dazwische geworfen habe... muss mich ersteinmal informieren ;)

-oh yes, i just didn't car that it was his Thread :rolleyes:


aquacomputer don't have real perfomaers i think. they look quite good, but thats all... i've heard of some people who had lecks because of the bad acryl plastik they use...

some realy good german brandas are:
www.cooling-solutions.de
- very good performance and quality, but little expensive (not as expensive as the white water block ;) )
-www.watercool.de
performance is quite ok, but quality is by far the best i know. also when the water inside is over 100°C the cooler has no lecks - same with high pressure of 10bar. good price


PS: you can test it, cooling solutions is sending their coolers to everywhere and everyone.

- no, I'm not a PR manager of cooling solutions! i've nothing to do with their company, neither with their chef, neither with their workers, nore with their cat ;)
-I think only that they're just good :)

Yup!:)

hey, the price of the new UCD just decreased to 50€. Thats pretty cheap for a waterblock which's a little better than the Rev.3, i think. @Puzzdre: if you want me to aks B@mbi to send one of these water blocks to you just write a mails to me. I think B@mbi would send you a cooler if you want.

Have you still got that 1U thermaltake skived P4 HSF Volenti?, would make a good blank to start from, I'm sure the potential in them is huge for home DIY blocks :) , I remember 'Badams' BillA sayins so, so it can't be bad(ams :p ) :D, "just take a 1U TT HSF and cross cut to your fancy" was the quote...

I've been wondering about 'fins ~V~ pins' ever since, you've answered my query! :) . Time to get the junior hacksaw out! :dome: ...

That project went from this;

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/block_soldered.jpg

to this;

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/HS_block_inside.jpg

then finally to this;

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/skinz_block.jpg


That final version has a ~2mm BP, 5mm high fins and the same 20mmx20mm fin area as the second inside pic shows, it's only ~2 degrees off my micropin block on my T-bred 2100+@2.34, 1.85v.

What do you think it'd do with cross cut 'pins' at a hight of 2~3mm instead of 5?...

Is there a 'jet' of any kind in there or just a 'vannilla' barb opening? :D , 2DegC is'nt bad either way...

Also what ever happened to the triple modded pump?, did you ever get anywhere with a 1250 single style mod, with the valves I mean?, I've been 'lost' in BF1942 for a few months!...

PS, I forgot to compliment you!, excellent work as ever :dome: ...

Thanks, it would be difficult to make really fine pins out of the skived sink, the fins are too fine (delicate) to make cuts that close together, you'd just end up with a mess.

no jet , just the normal barb opening.

The tripple pump mod was abandoned as soon as I got my iwaki pump, the 3 pumps were then used in friends watercooled systems.

What if you ground them down(lenghtwats,[whoops, lenghtwaYs] with the grain) to 2~3mm first, then cross cut, maybe one of those round small arbour disc saws that were in BB2Ks radius thread? (what happened with that?, I was waiting for him to finish before I plaugarised the inlet/outlet design :D ) the lower hight should make it 'firmer' no?, less 'sway'?...

How do you think it would perform if it was done without damage?...

What Iwaki did you get?, 20RZT?, what's it like, the increased pressure?, what about heat?, any chance of getting it 'incase'?. Sorry for the barrage! :) ...

Yes I do believe that would work (the grinding down, arbor disc saw thing)

though if you had a setup that could do accurate cuts with the disc saw you could skip the whole skived heaksink step and start from a raw peice of copper...

as for how it would perform, well I couldn't say, I saw massive improvements in my micropin block after I altered it with the fewer pins and higher volecity water flow, the improvement was so large in fact that I'll be revisiting the jet designes I used when I was direct die cooling in my next block. I will of course post full results if works well:cool:

yea I got the 20RZ, quite happy with it, on the suction side it will flatten 5/8'' vinyl tubing if you block the end, neat :D , I can use 90 degree elbows everywhere and it just just doesn't care.

It's very quiet, the metal casing get's quite warm, I ended up zip tieing a couple of heatsinks to it (mainly for my own peice of mind) I'm sure it doesn't need them though (it is a light industrial pump after all) heat into the water is very minimal, similar to a little submersable 7w pump.

It would be a tight squeeze in a case, not impossible, but tight.

True!, I'd be taking the 'Junior Hacksaw' aproach though, so the less work the better!. Also I can't find anywhere that stocks/sells copper bar(flat) for the life of me!, and there is'nt a scrappy within 20miles of me anymore :( , I've only got me pins and a mountainbike for transport so I can't go looking on the 'off chance', 32years old and can't drive a car :eek: (well legaly) the shame of it! :D ...

oh ok then, well I've got a couple of tips to make the cutting process a lot less painfull.

use a hacksaw with a very fine tooth count

get some 1mm copper or alluminium sheet, cut this up into thin strips and insert it into the gaps between the fins, then you can cut through the whole lot without making a mess of the fins, you won't believe how thin and fragile the fins are untill you see them in the flesh (or start cutting them with a hacksaw:p) .

I would be very interested in some technical drawings or 3D models of the Cathar's WW block, not so I can copy it, but simply so I can understand exactly what is going on... I have searched many forums for this but haven't found anything as of now. Can anyone link me to information regarding the development / reason / techincal details behind LRWW?

Tnx, Felix

very nice block again, my great respect to you volenti!

Reverse-Engineering Cathar's block isn't too complicated.

Lol, given that you have access to a working model... which I don't :)