There is a difference between metal to metal (brass barbs used in aluminum threads) and metal to water to metal (copper block, hose with water, aluminum rad). I would theroize that metal to metal would increase corrosion time considerably.

Looking forward to your comments, Bruce! Silkolene ProCCA has the drawback of being fairly expensive, but bought in larger quantities, heck even in bulk, it might be a good competitor to WW and/or Zerex.

Maybe I'll try calling that Florida outfit, to see if their shipping rates are any lower.

The thing that sounds really nice to me is 1% mixture. This doesn't reduce the efficiency of the water at all.

Yes it's pretty expensive BigBen2K.
But probably by placing a large order we can get better pricing.

BTW Hmale is sending me more than I need for testing. If you just send me your address i can send you some.
BillA- I'll send you some too, so that you can check it out.

kewl:cool: you have PM with my coordinates.

thanks Bruce
my sys is 2.5 gal

If there isn't enough to go around, give my share to Bill.

I guess I should have made this look like more of a question? Anyway any idea if I am wrong or right?

your wrong


plain and simple, dont ask me why, but you are.

Well, if what you're asking is if the water is helping the corrosion, the answer is yes.

Metal-to-metal, there would be corrosion, but in a dry environment, it wouldn't be noticeable. Put it in water though, or outside... and it'll turn brown/green/blue/whatever faster than...

With the metals not touching, the water would act as an electrolyte. Wether the water is tap or distilled or deionized won't make a difference (except if you're able to maintain deionized water, which is apparently very hard).

Now put in an additive, and you'll have a reduced electrical resistance, which will accelerate the process.

It's a good question.

Thats what I am saying, where the two metals are connected and then water on it it would corrode faster. When you thread the barbs in the block there is always exposed barb at the bottom of ther hole and water can seep up the threads untill it hits the sealant. I would think, and all my Al blocks with brass barbs seem to show it, that in that spot the corrosion would be the worst. That is where the corrosion started in my last AL block and it was not pretty.

Examples:
Pulled this from one of my threads. This was posted by Cathar.
http://home.kooee.com.au/draebor/ima.../corroded2.jpg


My last bock:

http://www.customcooledpc.com/oldblocks/001.jpg
.......................................
This one os the spot to where it is almost through the base. Hard to tell from the pic though.
http://www.customcooledpc.com/oldblocks/002.jpg
.......................................
http://www.customcooledpc.com/oldblocks/003.jpg
.......................................
http://www.customcooledpc.com/oldblocks/004.jpg
.......................................
http://www.customcooledpc.com/oldblocks/005.jpg
.......................................
http://www.customcooledpc.com/oldblocks/006.jpg


Problems were the worst around the barbs.

hrmm 2.5gal.
94.64ml should be enough then. ok i'll send you 100ml :)

Guess Humberto is sending me around 400oz of this stuff. So should be enough for everyone.

Jaydee116 - Are you trying to scare the n00bies? LOL

Good ole' battery effect ;) BigBen explained it perfectly.
Edit: See BillA's reply below

BTW I wouldn't be too surprised if the US version of Cathar's WW will be offered with an anodized aluminum top too. We'll see ;)

the corrosion shown is not galvanic
the correct name is cell corrosion, aka pitting corrosion
it is the functioning of a small cell in the presence of an electrolyte (the small cell becoming larger over time)
there was an excellent thread on corrosion on overclockers (perhaps someone has a link)

thanks for the inhibitor
thanks to Humberto also

thx Bill

Corrosion links (Click!)

Found lots of useful info over @ corrosion-doctors.org

Pitting Corrosion

Galvanic Corrosion

Hell I am still a n00bie so why not. ;)

LOL :)

but...
 

Good enough topic to shoot a dumb question.

I've read some time ago that someone (no, i dont get any more ambiguous than this) earthed the waterblock (connected it to the ground of the case) and got some results out of it.

I find it hard to belive, but asking doesnt hurt ... much.

It did'nt pan out enough to get a 'definative' result IIRC, but some people claimed it increased their overclock by a small (IMO) margine...

*****************************************

I took it for granted that it did, water is'nt a 'perfect carrier/conductor' is it?. if not then bringing the two closer together can only antagonise it?...

That's my surmise anyway, why I took it for granted...

Ethylene Glycol is a no-no -
(from http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/coolant.htm )
but are there any downsides with Propylene Glycol?

I personally use Silkolene Pro Cool (as the one I referred to in my earlier post).

BTW, hi Mark - didn't spot your name on the thread till now... :)

For those that don't know, ProCool, as opposed to ProCCA, contains propylene glycol, as well as the corrosion inhibitor.

ProCCA is strictly the inhibitor.

Does anyone have an opinion on this additive, considering the contents?

again:
Highly refined mineral oil: 40 - 50%
Diethoxyethanol: <5%
Fatty Alcohol ethoxylate: <5%
Sodium Sulphonate: 5 - 15%

I forgot to mention -
I did some testing once with my waterchiller in a tap water/antifreeze environment at subzero temps.
I did observe that the corrosion was much more prevalent where the mixed metals were in contact (alu, copper and mild steel) underwater.
So I'm currently siding with Ben and MadDogMe on this one but am interested to know the basis for Fixitt's reservations. :)


Regards grounding between (alu) rad and (copper) block, I should add that with my setup, my rad is not earthed to the case (plexi rad mount) so this may be a factor that I hadn't taken into consideration in my earlier post.

The thing I read was just about grounding the block to the case IIRC, not to the rad. It was for CPU stability/overclocking as well, not Galvanic corrosion(if that's what you're thinking?)...

My god... I think Fixitt is right. Who gives a rats ass what the block is gonna look like in two years. IF your are really into water cooling you will upgrade at least twice a year and wouldn't really care about anything other than how much further you can push your rig with the new configuration. IF you know what your doing you will not use tap water thus this entire thread is useless. The list goes no....

Lets have more constructive conversations instead of everyone rushing to their encyclopedia to act like they know what they are talking about only to over analyze everything. This isn't rocket science guys, it's plain old water cooling. :shrug:

[/rant]

RickCain
yours is a good teener approach, lots of that on the hard forums
need a link ?
no one is forcing YOU to think, or learn anything

some here have commercial interests, some don't wish to fill their rad with corrosion product, and some just want to know
different strokes fella

your back button work ?

Ok, Rick, as BillA kindly pointed out, if you don't want to know, you didn't have to read it in the first place. Also, are you telling me I'm not a real watercooler unless I junk my LRWW 3-4 months from now? sorry then, I've never really been good at these kinds of things.

Just for the record, what the deuce does using distilled water do to negate the effects of galvanic corrosion. I'm really confused. I'm sure I don't really need to know, but I wouldn't mind clarification, cause saving the headache of picking an anti-corrosive agent would be kinda nice.