I find your project of interest, so only charge is posting pics here of finished block & performance data.:D Wiseass remark about high cost was only a joke.

3.5" X 2.5" is no problem to cut for you.

I will need you to send me a PM with a address. I have rotating days off with my job, I'm off today & Fri. this week so I'll cut it today and ship tomorrow if you've seen this and sent me a address by then.

BE

i sent you my details.

look forward to makeing the top with it.

thanks again

Lee

I just read your PM, we're set to go. I sent a response before seeing this, would you like a wisker over your exact size to allow for sanding/polishing? My cutting method isn't real rough but not clear looking on the other hand.

BE

a fraction over will be ok. like you say it will allow me to sand and polish.

so i rushed home from work today after the akasa base was deliverd and this is what i have so far.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/newbase.jpg

i still need to do some sanding to get rid of some of the ridges left from the fins. the fins cover a p4 heat spreader and are 5mm high from the top of the base. the base is 3mm.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smi...andgrooves.jpg

here you can just make out the groove i have cut into the base. i think it's about 1mm at the moment. it's a bit trickey and if i am not careful i could remove one of the fins.

next the top with jet, but i will leave that for tomorrow night.

if i compare this or the version 1 to my koolance exos system will that be a good indication how good it works ? will the fact that it's not the same rig (pump , rad , tube size) make the readings i get useless.

I treated myself to a dremel router bench today. Works great for making the cuts into the base of the water block.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/dremelbench.jpg

i have made the grooves 2mm into the base. The pics look rubish so i didnt post them.

will do some more work on the base and top in the morning.
The dremel bench will help me to cut the inside of the lexan top when it arrives too.

Looks like fine work to me, nice going on cutting those channels. I'm sure you'll find a lot of uses fot that Dremel bench now that you have it.

Lexan's enroute.

thanks BE.

so far i have cut 8 channels out of 22 and that took just over 1 and a half hours.

Take your time doing the channels, they will repay you well. Should give a noticable improvement to the cooling.

Are you going to remove part of the fins so that the fined area is only a couple mm wider than the CPU? I'd make the fined area long enough to allow the later use of a Barton core if it were me though. Perhaps it's just me or the camera angle, but the finned area looks wider than needed. The extra width will reduce your water velocity & thus cooling.

But all in all, looking good man! :)

the finned area is 30mm x 30mm the same size as the p4 heat spreader.

P4?? Yeah, I've heard of those.:D

Sacrilige!! :eek: . Why would anyone buy one of those things!?...

I've just got a t~bred b and they are sooo small!, a tiny oblong footprint. A micro channelers nightmare!, at least they are'nt covered in '60 letters' worth of writing like the palimino is though!...

sorry guys but i am in intel fan. it goes back to when i used to build 486 pc's and we had some amd chips. Every one i built came back to the shop.

anyway i have had a busy weekend and here are the results. I did loose a couple of the fins along the way.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/v2block.jpg

this is the new block before i bond the to acrylic pieces together and polish the sides.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/v2base.jpg
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/v2depth.jpg

here is the base with the channles cut and the height of the fins and the depth of the channels

if i had a better way of cutting the channels i would try and go a little deeper.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/v2middle.jpg

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/v2l1.jpg

this is the middle acrylic layer i used the dremel bench to cut the middle away and also the jet in the center.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/v2top.jpg

you can see the channel i cut into the inlet to cover the jet.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/v2jet.jpg

and here the jet in action.

once i clean it up and seal it i will do some tests against my other block and the koolance exos i have.

Looking pretty good man. One suggestion that might gain you a bit.

Drill out that center barb by 1/3-1/2 the present wall thickness. Would allow more through put up to the jet without as much resistence. Won't help a lot, but evey little bit .........can't hurt.;)

thanks BE.

I was thinking when i get the lexan top i wont be able to cut the thread for the inlet as the jet will stop me from using a tap so i have a 1/2 plastic t piece that i could mod and use that for the inlet while keeping the 3/8 outlets.

I might change the outlet of the ehiem 1048 i have to 1/2 and the tube to the wb intlet too.

cant wait to test it.

I hope the block top gets there soon. Sent it by air to try to hurry it along.:D

Instead of a plastic tube in place of the threaded barb, how about use of some 1/2" copper or stainless steel tube. Plastic tube would both have thicker walls and break more easy. Just rough the outside of the tube a bit with some 400 grit paper to give a bit of extra grip to some epoxy resin/glue. Much stronger and will give maximum flow. You also might wish to rough the area of the tube where your tygon will be clamped on, again for grip.

I think you'll find this would work quite well.

I would hope the Lexan should be there by end of this week.:D

That's what I'll be doing if I use a poly top. I'll be using 13mm inner diametre tube whatever top I use, but epoxying Cu tube into poly sounds good to me. You can flatten the bottom of the tube out into a better shape to deliver the water to your 'jet' as well ;) ...

How much did the postage work out at BE?...

update.
i have quickley polished the sides and sealed the base and barbs.
was in process of lapping the base and i have took most of the skin off my thumb and finger so i have had to stop for tonight.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/v2block1.jpg
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/lapp1.jpg
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/fingers.jpg

they are so saw and wont stop bleeding.

i will go with the 1/2 inch brass pipe for the lexan top and also change the outlet of the pump too.

i need a good way to test this block and was thinking of the following.

1. standard intel heatsink.
2. koolance exos
3. new block

on each test give them some time to settle down
make sure room temp is as close as possibe before each test.
then meassure at idle temps.
run setti/prime or sandra burn in for lets say 1 hour . measure load temps and monitor room temps too.

what do you think will this give a good indication on how good it works as we know how good the hsf is and also the koolance.

i have the lexan so will start work as soon as i can.

It won't be a scientific comparison but I'll be interested :D ...

maddog do you have any commercial blocks you dont use any more i could use as a comparison ?

i was just looking at bill's site and noticed the tests he did on the heater cores.

In the rig that i will test the block i have the ehiem 1048 pump and a big momma style heater core with 2 12cm fans in push and pull config.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/newcase1.jpg

this is before i put the shroud and second fan on and also changed the rig to pump > cpu > rad to make sure the jet get's as much pressure as possible

4 days, not to bad, midwestern US (Michigan) to Uk, faster by a couple days than I thought it would be, kool.

Maddog,

$4.80 US for air mail shipping, could have saved about a third for general rate. But it might have gotten there next week instead of this one then. Who ever charged $9 to ship RAM to Uk should be flogged.

Sorry Lee I only have the Maze3:1 that I'm currently using. I'd let you use it if I had another H2o block I could use in the meantime, but H20 is on a bit of a hold for me (has been the last few months) money wise. I just upgraded to a new 2400+ hoping for a decent overclock (as oppossed to a 1700/2100+ which are doing well) and have found out I need a new mobo to unleash the monsters potential , NFS2 revision2.0 is on the way...

_________________________________________

Blackeagle, have you got much of the Lexan?, I'm very interested in getting some but it's £150 for a big sheet (4"x8" is all they'll do, no smaller) and that's for 5mm thick stuff!, God alone knows how much 9mm~13mm/0.5inch would cost!. I don't fancy my chances roaming the streets with a cordless jigsaw hoping to find an unprotected bus~shelter(we have bullet~proof bus~shelters in the UK! :p ) to cut a square out of. I have $9 or $14 (do you have $5 notes?, if not it's $14) that was given to me in bit's'n'bobs by people who visited the States, so I could cover the cost of postage for you. I need enough to make tops for a CPU block and northbridge and GPU blocks that I'm currently making (NB & GPU) with a drillpress. I'd post pics as well!! :D ...

worth a try maddog. If i ever get the thermaltake base i could let you try one of my blocks so you can compare it to the maze 3 you have but i guess i would have to make a amd version.

BE. I have been looking at the lexan and will do my best but i think it's not thick enough. getting the jet and the inlet is the main problem.
I was thinking of using a 1/2 inch piece of copper pipe as the inlet and squeezing the end to make the jet.

Like i said i will do my best.

I have a 1/2 inch conversion kit on it's way for the pump and also some 1/2 inch tube and 1/2 barb with the same thread as the 3/8 ones i currently have.

So far the block is sealed ok and the leak test is going well.