Fiiu : Nice WB!

I just wonder, wouldnt be better if you had pins or something instead of two turns, where GPU is?

So the cooling surface would be bigger?

The file is an object, open an empty scene the load it as an object file.


Fiiu, that looks good, but most of the credit goes to Bladerunner.

But you have shown me where I can remove quite a bit of copper from my own design.

I will update my renderings with a little more copper shaved off.

/Edit, I just realized something.
I was finding a hard time removing copper from the block as to me, it looked ugly with so many holes.
But then I thought, why not drill tons of holes into the bottom layer of the block to remove weight, and then simply attach the cap without any holes.
The weight of a 2mm cap will be negligable once the weight is removed below it.
This will allow for a nice solid looking block, without all the holes showing.

Bladerunner,

I use Visio at work... it's as close as you can get to true scale without using AutoCAD or similar. I use it a LOT to do my designs. It has provisions for dimension objects too. 8-D

Here is a sample I did that was a screen capture.

http://pages.sbcglobal.net/mmz_tl_01...tion-block.gif

Again... when you print directly from Visio, it uses the printer settings to get the scale correct (okay... 99% correct).

Hope that helps...

Here is a rendering showing holes drilled to loose weight.

Yet the cap is solid.

http://server5.uploadit.org/files2/090104-Holes.jpg

The hard part I guess will be making sure that the solder in place is water tight.
But if it were to have a leak, the block could be flipped over and solder added to fix the leak (by insterting solder into the holes in the back)

Anyone think this is a good idea?

Yeah, if it fixes the leak, than it is fine. And it cannot be seen from top side ;)

While waiting on the bulk of my copper I was able to get my hands on a 2mm Plate.
Good enough for one of the caps on the waterblock.

http://www.zapwizard.com/laserpc/5950/copper.jpg

Since I will be hand milling this block I came up with a good way of laying down a template direclty on the copper.

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http://www.zapwizard.com/laserpc/5950/painted.jpg

First the copper is sprayed with Vinyl dye
(As it was what I had lying around)
It i will also come off very easy later.

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http://www.zapwizard.com/laserpc/5950/Top-plate.jpg

I then made an exact 1:1 image of the template area.

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http://www.zapwizard.com/laserpc/5950/template.jpg
And then used a laser etching machine to etch away the paint.
(A the machine can't etch into the copper but can burn the paint away)

The same technique could be done by simply printing a tempate on thick paper, then spray painting the tempate onto the copper.


In reality the template is only good for the edges, as the holes will be drilled though later all at once, to make sure they are aligned.
But this will help with the actual channeling later.

Okay, here's some more pics, finally. Looks like this will be the final design, hope that the mill can do it like I want to.

http://koti.mbnet.fi/fiiu/misc/block_water.jpg
http://koti.mbnet.fi/fiiu/misc/block_step.jpg
http://koti.mbnet.fi/fiiu/misc/block_step2.jpg

(total of 40k for the three pics)

The lid is not in the pic, there will be only the hose connectors, "elbow" type. The block will be easy to manufacture because there is no pins to be made. (Maybe in rev. 2, if there ever will be such design :p)

Can't wait for this to get milled!

if you dont want your card to be permanently bent out of shape (i have one like that) you will want to make the waterblock as light at possible remember water that fills the blocks weights something

Also there are capacitors (brown in color) that are taller then the dimms, you need to make cutouts for these.

There are 5 of these near each set of two memory chips.
Also the little silver/gold crystal directly left of the core is the same height as the dimms.

I choose to just add some shims to the copper rather then mill out spots for other components.

http://www.zapwizard.com/laserpc/5950/water-3.jpg

And back to the drawing board. There's some "copper" to be shaven off, have to draw a better one. Only thing I'm concerned that if I mill something out from the middle of the block, will the compression of the screws outside be enough to keep it tight? There needs to be at least one screw at the inside area of the block, right?

you should solder the block its not that hard really. thats the only full proof way

Now I got the design that might be the finished piece. Heavy or not :D

http://koti.mbnet.fi/fiiu/misc/watercooling/block1.jpg
http://koti.mbnet.fi/fiiu/misc/water...ck_channel.jpg

As you can see, there's a piece shaven off here, other from there etc., and the amount of holes are for plexi/lexan cover. I'll let you know how it does turn out to be, a good design or a book holder :)

What can be heavier than Leadtek's stock cooling? - Anything homemade!

Now that's a hell of a neat trick Zap. way to use the VL!