Ohhh do you mean the copper will be good or what ?
sorry but didn't get you.
Sorry
ALi

I should have said that the Copper version will be carried by Other online stores, Like FrozenCpu, But as to the Silver version I don't know Yet If only Danger Den will be the only one to sell the Silver version or not. I'm sure that both are very good Temp wise, It's just that Silver is better than copper and that gold is better than silver, But since gold is too weak structurally and also from a cost stand point, Like near $380.00 per ounce, Versus $5.80 per ounce or so, It's either Silver or Copper. Gold though is for the fools as a pure form would be really super super heavy, Beyond Copper in Weight to the point of being worthless.

Yeah that’s true nice write up! By the way this is my first WC setup by tha way. But I am researching as much as I can to get the best of the best or at least something that will work out positively as a first time. I think I will just go for the Copper top. I spent just too much on my WC setup to get the silver.
Do you think I should just go ahead and order tha thing? I will also try working more on my website so I can post all my results on there. I also have lots of pictures of every single mod I have don to my PC. From Air cooled to WC.

Me I'm aiming for the Silver version as It cools the Best from what I've read, It has the Option of a Brass Top($6.00) instead of the Clear Top and Different Jets($2.00), But It does seem to have the requirement of a high volume pump(min. 300GPH?), But I don't think the Other Jet sizes were tested, So I think the TDX series of Blocks have been only tested with the Stock Jet size so far and so I think the Jury is still out as to whether a 160GPH pump would be effective or not, To Me at least this is what is going on here. The Copper TDX is $52.95, The Difference between Copper and Silver so far is about 2c to 3c in Temperature. Not to mention, That one is $52.95 and the other one is $124.95 or $72.00 Difference in cost betwen the two, So What would You rather have? 2c to 3c less cpu Temperature or $72.00. That is what It all boils down to. :D :D And Yes go buy the Copper version If that is what You can afford, Or You could wait a month and save up for It (the Silver version), Unless You are really strapped for cash, In which case, Go for It (the Copper version).

Gold also has bad thermal transfer, doesnt it?

128 j/K vs 385 j/K, doesnt that mean that the copper can absorb a lot more heat before heating up than the gold?

i'd wait for a review of the silver version by someone with a reliable setup before making your decision iiwy.... i suspect the true difference will be a lot less than 2C ....

Here's a comparison between the RBX,S-TDX,TDX,WW: http://reviews.pimprig.com/cooling/d...tdx_blocks.php

While the MCP600 has a lower unrestricted flow rating, you guys have to realize that it's head rating will push more water through a restrictive system than most high-flow pumps will. The pressure drop of a block like the RBX/TDX/etc will affect a high-flow pump more than the MCP600, because of head ratings.

The only piece that I have yet to fully decide on is a rad. In fact, I was trying to find a review/comparison of the D-Tek JR-120 when I came across this thread. :D

Criticool is a 5min train ride from my place, so I'll be getting the Fusion HL and the RBX (brass top) from them. Might get their reservoir too, but we'll see. Best Canadian place I've found for the MCP600 is from Bigfoot Computers, since they have free shipping for Canada on this piece.

..... i said a reliable setup ;)
TDX-Silver (#4 nozzle)
http://www.overclockers.com/articles1027/
TDX (#4 nozzle)
http://www.overclockers.com/articles1022/

according to this the performance is virtually identical - certainly not sufficiently better to justify the extra $ imho

Well the silver seems slightly superior to Me and that is what It all comes down to, Personal preference, Although to qoute part of the article:

As to the difference between silver and copper, I found the silver base to be more consistent (lower standard deviation of test results) than the copper version, with essentially the same C/Ws. One could argue that as such, silver has a slight performance advantage over copper, but not overwhelmingly so.

And as such in overclocking an XP (Barton XP-M 2500+ in My case) Cpu to It's limit(whatever that may be), I would need to remove every last erg of excess temperature from the cpu to do so possibly. But It would be My choice. I already know the cpu that I have will overclock to a higher level than what I have now attained, It just isn't reachable with Air right now as far as I can tell.

Besides, What else do I have to spend My monthly ssi (disability) check on besides Rent(To My brother, It includes Food too), Verizon, AT&T and Charter Pipeline? My brother with whom I live with does the rest and that is a lot.

WTF, I look away from overclockers.com for a couple hours, and they put up a new article on the TDX-S?! :eek:

That pimprig article I found was the only one I came across, so I posted it up.

So far, the slight increase (still need more reviews, comparisons, etc) doesn't justify doubling the cost. Materials would definately drive up the price, and the coolness factor is there.

Personally, I don't see any reason to go with the TDX over the RBX. Some people don't like having a Y connector, and that's fine for them.

Thanks guyz! I think I will just wait and see how will DD WB perform with the MCP600. Although it is kind of hard cause I have all the compnents ready except the WB, so that sucks! Ohh by the way the Fusion HL looks very nice and it is lapped very well i will be posting pictures on my website as soon as it is ready. I also got the Criticool Water plant it is very high quality and looks nice too.
ALi

Hello Everyone,
Here are more pictures of the Black & Chrome HC after sanding it down althogh still not finished. I have also mentioned to you guyz that there was a bump on the left HC tank, that looks like it was damaged and fixed. well those pictures that speak for themselves.

picture 6
picture 7

Oooo...erm doesn't look good, does it?
FWIW, the fedco 2-224 I ordered from PartsAmerica
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_.../FEC/2-224.jpg
Fedco 2-224 heater core $29.98 at PartsAmerica
arrived as a Transpro equivalent.
http://www.koure.org:800/temp/transpro_core_400x400.jpg
Not as perfect as I'd hoped for (a bit too short a straight run before the bend) but as there were straight runs I went ahead and used it to replace the be-cooling one I had in there.
It works fine, shroud fits fine, overall height, including tanks, is about .25" shorter than the be-cooling one.
I made the swap without dismounting/remounting the waterblock (potential source of variation), used the same hoses, pump, fans, etc.
I am seeing the exact same temps reported by my CPU diode (offset for current room temp). I know diode temps are a bit of a fantasy, but I'd like to think that the same temp reported by the same diode on the same CPU on the same motherboard really is pretty much the same temp.

Ohhh Bob
your HC looks amazing ! nicely finished with no bends visible perfect for painting ! looking good, I think i will just go ahead and order tha thing.
I will update you as soon as i get the thing :)

Where in your case do you plan to put it? This core would be usable as-is (no cutting or anything) if I'd positioned the case hole I cut for it so the tubing after the bends actually pointed somewhere useful (had already cut this case to accommodate the be-cooling core with straight barbs).

Here's what it looks like from the top (note that there's only a half inch or so before the bend)
http://www.koure.org:800/temp/transpro_core_top.jpg

And here's 1/2" ID soft silicone tubing just pushed over the 5/8" OD copper tube and beading. I like these beaded tubes better than barbs.
http://www.koure.org:800/temp/transpro_core_hose.jpg
I think that if I was going to work on my soldering skills, I'd think about un-soldering these tubes, cutting them down so they don't have a bend anymore and then just soldering the straight "ends" (the parts that are beaded) back into the holes.
I've read that these radiators "fall apart" if you try to solder them. I've also read that it's no problem of you fill them up with water first.

Also - this core is a perfect fit with a coolingworks shroud, with just the outer (thin) gasket in place. You can skip using the gasket completely if you like as the outer part of the core will rest on the flat "shelf" part of the shroud, so no/little air leakage even without it).
You will need to cut the shroud a bit to clear the tubes (and deeper than for the barbs on the be-cooling core as the tubes are both larger diameter and closer to the fins.

Finally - IMHO there's no reason to paint it - and if you do I'd suggest radiator paint

Thanks for the pics Bob :) and thanks for the spray paint link. I already bought the acrylic enamel black spray paint a while ago from Home Depot. I will will update you with picures as soon as I get it done. You can also cut the barbs off and use some JB weld, after it dries you can file it down till it is nice and round. Then paint it, I think its gonna look nice. I also prepared my case and cut out the front panel and replaced it with plexiglass with a 6x6 hole for the HC breathing, so the HC will be in the bottom front of my Lian Li.
ALi

Heey ! All Water Cooling gear is in! I order the D-TeK white water and it was delivered yesterday. I also have a question for you guyz with D-TeK’s White Water. Do you have the some sort of sealant around the three barbs? Mine has black glue around them but it applied nicely so no problem here. Also, regarding the “Black & Chrome” heater core, I cleaned it up and repainted it. I cleaned up all the junk around the barbs, but still not perfect. But its okay I will replace it soon. All the WC Gear should be installed by the end of the week, but I am having some trouble finding a good spot to mount the Criticool water plant. I have the Lian Li PC-62 so it a little tight inside.

I think the "black glue" around the Whitewater barbs is probably an o-ring

Do you mean the rubber o-ring?

By the way sorry guyz for those huge pics i posted earlier i removed them and provided a link instead.

Just an update: I ordered the D-TeK PRO-120 today at 7:00 in the morning and it should be here tomorow morning. I played around with other HC's from local auto parts stores. Didn't like the fact of moddin them. Everything was okay but the HC was leaking, so now I am now looking forward to get Plug & Play product. I will update you with more pics and a small review after I install it.