it wouldnt be to hard to bring the outlet and inlets inside the 2" area just curve them around more and snug.

I think you are right :) The problem is mine, didn't convey what I meant very well in the quicky picture previously posted.

Maybe this new pic will help show what I mean better. Note that the block fits completely within the overall size envelope you define with your last diagram, difference is the o-ring seal isn't done on the top surface ;) (but it is only 2" across the smaller dimension)

looks nice

Oh, almost forgot...

Brad :
The top actually could be 2 pieces, one the larger flat piece and the other the smaller piece with the o-ring groove around it. They shouldn't even need to be soldered together since the pressure seal is created on the side face, meaning no water would reach the interface between the two lid pieces. For just about totally fail safe protection, you could even put a groove in the bottom of the top plate that was centered on the the edge of the bottom lid piece and end up with a double seal ;)

That is sweet and very well done!!! But I am not going to do it. Way to much work for to little. It would take days to figure all that code out and another day to make.

I like that pic too, using screws to fasten the plate down as well as the oring would be really cool imho

Here is this block right after sealing up. I am going to test it like this first and then i will put a middle inlet in and test it that way. Going to let the seal dry over night .

ok, cool. those barbs are 3/8" aren't they?

1/4"ID 3/8"OD. Thats what the rest of my system is setup for.

so is the central inlet going to be 1/2?

Nope the outsides will be 3/16"ID and the middle 1/4"ID. Don't have the right setup to go any bigger.

is that block the one you posted earlier in this post with a top on it?

yes

NP Jaydee :) Was just trying to help show a fairly simple way that Scythe or Brad's blocks could be sealed and remain within your milling limits ;)

I can definitely understand how hard the spirals would be doing the g-code by hand. As far as the top part, you do realize it is only an end-mill cut around the bottom of the lid to create the step, a straight groove cut around the outer edge of the top, and a square recess in the top of the block? (and you wouldn't even have the end-mill cut if the lid were made from two pieces)


Brad - LOL, I sure would hope that there would be screws holding that top on! ;) I didn't put the screw holes, inlet/outlet openings, m/b mounting holes, or spirals in the pic since I was a) just trying to explain the lid concept to Jaydee and b) was too lazy to bother with adding them and the spiral to that pic :o

Yes I understand the lid. One problem though is I cannot make corners square( perfect sharp 90 degree because the end mill is round) so it would have to have perfectly rounded corners for the lid to fit in perfect and still have the O ring fit in the groove. It is hard to mill a groove in a corner the same depth as the rest of the groove. Not sure my mill can do that because I don't have a 4th axis that rotates the material. I do like the idea though. Just out of my range at the moment.

that illistration up there is how the tops for my spirals are made, but the top is one part instead of 2.

hey jay, ever think of doing an acrylic top? its alot easyer to machine.


Edit:

what i did was machined a pocket for the top to sit into, with rounded corners (because o-rigns done like 90 degree corners) and i machined the acrylic tops with the rame rad. but .100 smaller on the tops, because an o-ring is 1.03. No grove to fit in, just wrap the o-ring around the step in the top, and fit it in. The problem I ran across is that the o-ring I need is an od ball size! Have to wait for the order of them to come in.

Cool :) That type of seal is fairly common (stepped with the o-ring on the face) in the some industry sectors. Thanks for reminding me that garden variety o-rings are basically circular and need rounded corners :D

(goes off and pounds head on keyboard to get brain working correctly)

LOL NP. Yeah I actually got the idea for the o-ring after helping a friend rebuild a transmission, they have big o-rings that do all kinds of turns and such.

If i did a fancy looking block like your Spiral or the one posted above i would do it, but for now I am not.

The power wemt out here for a couple hours so i switched over to this new block with the circular middle. Leak testing now. Will fire it up in the morning. I am expecting good things from it. On a lesser note I am just about out of time for this stuff. After this weekend I doubt I will have anything going untill next layoff season.

I am going to send you (Fixittt) my code for the original block I made if you want. You may find some use for it. I really like it myself, it is the coolest(temp wise) one I have made so far. The only problem is the sealing of the edges. I was going to use a rubber seal but i have not got around to buying the stuff yet.
http://www.dorrellco.com/aluminumWB/final1al.jpg

Also let me know about the website and how you want to go about it.

Another option you might think about for sealing that edge Jaydee is good ole Permatex Blue form-a-gasket. I've used it without any other gasketting material on my car coolant systems (heat and pressure there) and never had a leak :D Once it sets up it's a rubbery like substance, and the teflon in it flows very well into the surface imperfections. Not what you might want for a production wb, but for testing and one-ofs it should work just fine.

I think that form-a-gasket stuff corrodes w/ copper though... check it out to make sure i'm wrong.
-Kev

in case you haven't noticed kev, that block isn't copper ;)

I actually used RTV Industrial silicone when I tested it. Worked just fine. That is what i am using on all my test blocks and so far so good. I am not sure about using it for sellable blocks, butthat woun't be a problem for a while anyway.

Got this new block up and it is doing rather poorly. I think I may have it mounted wrong. Dosn't look to square sitting on the socket. Thats what I get for doing it while the power was out and using a 1 candle power candle.:D

Going to remount it and try again.

Right now it is 11C over water temp with the XP1600+@1554mhz 148FSB 2.05Vcore. Which actaully isn't tooooo bad but not as good as I am aiming for. 27C water, 38C CPU under SETI load. it can do better.

I remounted it and now it is 10C over water temp with SETI load. Still not close to what I want. The center inlet maybe the key. I will get to that tomorrow after a remill my last block and test it tonight.

To many things to get done by Sunday.

maybe , but i dont know that block doesnt have alot of surface area. That could be the problem though the groove bumps you made in the bottom might help but not enough.

hey jay I didnt get your email, sorry buddy, can U re send it, also can U send me the DXF file for that block in this thread? I have some ideas......... OHH bayBEE!!! man do I have some ideas!

I have a DXF for my original block that is complete and a chiller, but the one for the block I posted in this thread is not 100% done. I can send what I got.


Send me an e-mail at jaydee116@attbi.com so I have your correct address.

Doh I got my posts mixed up!!! I don't have a DXF for this block. I just manually made the code and then used the hand wheels to make the inside posts deals. I can send you the GNC code but it just makes the outside circle.

Ok Fixittt I just made a DXF for this circular block. I "think" it should work the way i wanted it to . I don't have the GNC code though. Shoot me an e-mail and I will send you 6 DFX files that I have. They may need a little tweaking for your setup.

Those will include all the blocks I posted here and even the finned one plus a few other things.