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-   -   P4 direct die water cooling (http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=4650)

Volenti 04-11-2003 04:27 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Phuzun
Y not run 2 or more pumps parrallel? That would provide alot more pressure. Put a Y connect b4 the block.
Parallel pumps give higher flowrate, not higher pressure, you need series pumps for higher pressure.

HMB 04-11-2003 11:15 AM

One question... why didnt u use an o-ring for sealing? It worked great for me while playing with direct-die.

Edit: Thugh the waterblock sucked, i got temps similar to my previous WB but i could overclock 150MHz extra with the old WB :D I werent brave enough to keep experimenting with nozzels and so on, it was quite creepy to use the block, when i turned to pump off the water inside the WB started to boil within 2-3 seconds.
http://w1.858.telia.com/~u85821090/direct-die2.jpg
http://w1.858.telia.com/~u85821090/direkt-die1.jpg

Arcturius 04-11-2003 11:30 AM

I like the idea of slotting the holes on the retention plate--I always have problems lining up the bolts that go through the MB.

Those are 3/8 barbs, right?

How deep is the 'pocket' in that water jacket? I didn't have problems with the boiling so quickly (or at all) when I turned my pump off for a few moments (my curiosity will kill me one day... :D )

The only time I ever saw the slightest indication of boiling was when I was first experimenting with my K6-2 350@500/3.5V, the top 1.5" of a pop bottle, and 12ml of static water.

HMB 04-11-2003 12:20 PM

Slotting the holes was necessary in order to not to have the o-ring rest on electrical components on top of the cpu.

The babs were handmade and are for 3/8 barbs yes.

The pocket is about 7-8mm.

Well i ran a tbird 1400 @ around 1500MHz with this waterblock, vcore around 1,85-2,1V so boiling did occure rather fast ;)

Arcturius 04-11-2003 05:31 PM

I found the info on my Tbred:
Batch RIWGA (Tbred A), week 35 of 2002

AXDA1700DLT3C
RIWGA0235MPMW
9345097270086

Volenti 04-11-2003 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by HMB
One question... why didnt u use an o-ring for sealing? It worked great for me while playing with direct-die.


At the time I was playing with direct die I didn't have the ability to mill an o-ring channel, besides the blu-tack gasket worked well enough for me, I never had it leak.

MadDogMe 04-12-2003 03:55 AM

I like the idea of a wider more redundant seal, O'rings work great but they have very fine precise tolerances, a bit of dirt and they're buggered. I'd prefer something with more of a 'feel safer' factor than BlueTack but it appears to do the job :D ...

Volenti 04-12-2003 04:08 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by MadDogMe
I like the idea of a wider more redundant seal, O'rings work great but they have very fine precise tolerances, a bit of dirt and they're buggered. I'd prefer something with more of a 'feel safer' factor than BlueTack but it appears to do the job :D ...
There's not many other re-useable gasket like materials that you can use, not only does blu-tack fullfill the requirements of a low pressure gasket (under 10psi) it's also adhesive, seals very well with low mounting pressure, and easily removeable for adjustments, changes ect. I looked, and couldn't find a better alternative (other than something permanent like silicone)

SparkedFire 04-12-2003 11:00 PM

I like your jet/spray idea for the WB. Perhaps it could be used in other designs to evenly distribute, channel, and remove water from a WB. I'm sure your approach with the jet/spray will become popular. :drool: It could also be used to direct water to an exact location.

Phuzun 04-13-2003 12:14 AM

How can you take a direct die block off your cpu without killing everything? I think im just not thinking but unless its epoxied it would be diffucult to take the block off without getting your mobo wet.

Volenti 04-13-2003 12:38 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Phuzun
How can you take a direct die block off your cpu without killing everything? I think im just not thinking but unless its epoxied it would be diffucult to take the block off without getting your mobo wet.
in my setup you could remove the cpu from the socket with the block still attached (and sealed), you can then remove the block from the cpu over a towel or something, the block only holds a couple of cc of water.

GTA 04-13-2003 04:04 PM

All looks very interesting indeed :) kudos for trying it Mr Volenti.

Couple of questions :

1. Does the removal of all the thermal barriers ( copper, AS3 etc ) between the water and the core, make up for the loss of surface area possible with a milled copper block design?

2. How safe is this design? I looked into Direct Die a while ago, and spoke at length to Spode about it, as he had had some success trying it. He found that the main problem was time, a DirectDie block that works for a week may not work several months later.

How do you intend to get over the problem that over time, a chip may absorb water?

3. How does the surface of the P4 differ from the surface of a AMD chip?

The original grey Athlons seemed to be reasonably waterproof ( Spode reckoned ) but the newer red, green and brown ones, seemed to fail faster, again, given the timescale mentioned above.

4. Do you reckon this is the next step for watercooling?

hara 04-13-2003 04:10 PM

Quote:

4. Do you reckon this is the next step for watercooling?
As surface area to power output ratio decreases, one has to find new ways to spread the heat. That is why direct die cooling can't be as effective as (for example) a WW block.

It is interesting to experiment with though. Keep it up Volenti. :)

Volenti 04-13-2003 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by GTA
All looks very interesting indeed :) kudos for trying it Mr Volenti.

Couple of questions :

1. Does the removal of all the thermal barriers ( copper, AS3 etc ) between the water and the core, make up for the loss of surface area possible with a milled copper block design?

2. How safe is this design? I looked into Direct Die a while ago, and spoke at length to Spode about it, as he had had some success trying it. He found that the main problem was time, a DirectDie block that works for a week may not work several months later.

How do you intend to get over the problem that over time, a chip may absorb water?

3. How does the surface of the P4 differ from the surface of a AMD chip?

The original grey Athlons seemed to be reasonably waterproof ( Spode reckoned ) but the newer red, green and brown ones, seemed to fail faster, again, given the timescale mentioned above.

4. Do you reckon this is the next step for watercooling?

1. I believe so yes, given enough water volecity and the right jet design. I have made a few water blocks now that have an active heat removal area that isn't much bigger than the core anyway.

2. it's not safe long term untill the manufacturing of the cpu's is designed around direct die as a cooling option, ie using water proof materials.

3. the p4 die and paly amd are similar in area, the T-bred is signifigantly smaller in area.

4. several companies are investigating a similar approach using controlled jet's of nonconductive fluid to directly cool hot components, but that's more phase change than simple convective water cooling.

Pritorian 04-30-2003 05:51 PM

Do you think that if you where to angle the jet of water say at 45 deg, it would make a diffrence?

just thinking that you could direct flow better and make the water chambers a bit smaller so no hot water gets traped anywhere?

Hmmm, just a tought...

-P-

HMB 05-03-2003 06:26 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Volenti
4. several companies are investigating a similar approach using controlled jet's of nonconductive fluid to directly cool hot components, but that's more phase change than simple convective water cooling.
Have u seen the video with the cooling system for the Cray X1? Direct Die phase change i believe it was :)

Phant0m51 05-11-2003 03:26 PM

This is sort of pulling this out of the dead, but I just thought I'd let you guys know that I am currently planning on making a Direct Die cooling block and am going to test the reliability of an AMD Athlon XP 1400+ over a 3 month period. I'll reply back with any updates, including the Ambient, Idle, and Burn temperatures of the processor as it continues through the weeks, and any Crashes that may occur. It will be a Gentoo Linux system, so the probability of it being the OS crashing will be lower. I'll let you guys know how it goes, and I'll post 3D pics of my water block ideas later.

Until next time,
Jonathan

MadDogMe 05-12-2003 04:22 AM

Is this without waterproofing the 'fibre~stuff' package in any way?, or is it just the silicone core?...

Arcturius 05-12-2003 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by MadDogMe
Is this without waterproofing the 'fibre~stuff' package in any way?, or is it just the silicone core?...
How would you waterproof the core without thermally insulating it? (And it's silicon, BTW. Silicone is for bathtubs and breast implants :p)

Pritorian 05-12-2003 11:03 AM

Dont think it´s the core he´s talking about.

Would be the ceremic that surrondes the core i would think :)

-p-

davidzo 05-18-2003 03:24 AM

i just read this thread and thought maybe this is a little interesting for your direct Die watercooling projects ;)

Its written in German, but i think the graphics also say very much.

Pritorian 05-18-2003 07:12 AM

Hehe, well i didn´t understand anything of that link ;)

-P-

Cathar 05-18-2003 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Pritorian
Hehe, well i didn´t understand anything of that link ;)

-P-

http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish

Go there, type in the URL and select German to whatever language suits you.

Pritorian 05-18-2003 03:34 PM

Ahhh! Thnx!

HMB 06-15-2003 06:10 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by davidzo
i just read this thread and thought maybe this is a little interesting for your direct Die watercooling projects ;)

Its written in German, but i think the graphics also say very much.

Very interesting!


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