the make is different, but the drill looks exactly the same as the one i found. WOOOHOOOO. one more thing, the vice came with the press, or u just bought it seperately.

ok, now i first need to find some place where i can easily find some copper bars. and then i can do some real planning.

btw: have u ever soldered a block together? it frightens me some...

I bought the vice separately, the drill was too cheap to come with the vice I think.

I never soldered the block yet, but I think it's not such a problem. I dont have the blowtorch but I saw somewhere a guy soldered block heating it on the cooking electrical plate, and somebody here on the forum said he soldered his on barbecue...dunno...:shrug:

now that cooking furnace is a very good idea, i got one on gas. u could use some metal plate to distribute the heat +/- evenly and then solder. looks way easier than to hold the blowtorch and put the block together.

i've been phoning around some. as u mention, when i say i need a cu bar from 50mm width. the moment i say it needs to be 20-30mm thickness, everyone is real surprised and tells me it will be hard to find. i'm getting there though.

cheers puzzdre, u got me down this evil twisty road again

Yes, but look what I picked up...a roadkill...:D

/edit/ btw, all blocks I posted are drilled in 10 mm copper...that should be easier to find, at least here...
good luck!

You're getting closer...

Try a honeycomb pattern: it's most efficient, for the surface area.

it looks like u r learning fast indeed puzzdre, starting to look pretty nice.

Thanx guys!

bb2k: I didn't thought of honeycomb pattern, but after you mentioned it I did some drawing. If I drill with 3 mm dia bit, there's not too much good, small number of residual posts... And doing something like this with smaller dia... just imagine the number of holes, and dremel for connecting them is out of question...dunno...:shrug:

Good idea though!

Cheers

forgot to attach...:confused:

the problem with honey-cone patterns, look at the pins that are being formed.... they now have 6 sides.... which makes them "rounder". Now for heat transfer out of a pin, you want a triangular shaped pin, for the best Surface-area VS. Volume_of_pin ratio.. the next best thing is a square pin, then pentagonal.....hexagonal... etc. till you have a round pin... which has the least surface area for the most metal....

simple math, but as rotor is true, your original design would still be best

I hope so:)

But for the simplicity of manufacturing complete block, #Rotor's design beats all the rest of this kinda block. Several straight cuts through the holes, and you're done...

i dont fully understand what u mean by "some straight cuts through the holes..." but keep posting those pix, and when u r finished, that could (will be for me) be a damn fine tutorial.

Some geometry correction
 

This is a real honeycomb pattern, it really forms triangular pins that are connected by three axis of staight lines. (simple to dremel cut)

you mean like this.... :D

on the straight cuts'...


to make manufacturing these blocks feasible for doing with a cheap drill-press, you need to avoid having the holes cut into one another. that means that there will be a very thin wall sealing each hole, from the 4 around it. Now for fluid to be able to get through this grid, we need to remove these thin walls... hence the need for the Dremel... by having the holes in a square grid, one only need to cut in 2 directions, in order to form the pins. and make way for the fluid to get through..

the trick comes in being as precise as possible, the more accurate you can get the holes drilled, the thinner the walls will be, and the easier the dremeling will be. on a manufacturing cost table, the Dremel disks is the third most expensive consumable in the process... needless to point the savings by being accurate.... :)

pardon me for being so n00bie ; but isn't the dremeling really stressfull? i mean, if u got a baseplate thickness of 3mm at the least and 5mm at most. if u cut too deep with the dremel...

looks like it is a messy job. are all yours made with dremel rotor?

With dremel you go as deep as needed to remove the walls between holes, not cutting deeper into the block, leaving the little conical pits made by drill bit head. In blocks I drilled so far, the holes are (more or less accurately) 4 mm deep (thx #Rotor!), so it leave you 6 mm for base thickness. Cutting the thin walls is relatively easy, but cutting into the solid block with dremel is...:cry: :cry: :cry:

Rotor,Puzzdre, how about splashing out on one of those metal cutting blades that were in BB2K's radial thread?. $25 if I remember, but worth it in the long run?...

isn't 6 mm alot for base plate thickness? i thought 3mm was considered to be optimal, or are u getting structural integrity problems then?

btw: anyone know what's up with rotor's site?

@MadDogMe: yeah, good idea but 25$ is only for blade, and additional $$$ for arbor and stuff is becames too much IMO. And making something on your own for using that blade is IMO dangerous (lots of sharp teeth, moving fast...Alien?:p )...it's doable and good for long run, but the question is would it pay for itself...dunno

@g.l.amour: I accesed #Rotor's site today without problems.
As for base thickness, I just listened to #Rotors experience. And according to this graph, 6 mm base is quite good if you want heat to spread good. Or, am I wrong?

I did a little cutting on the block today with 1.5 mm mill bit on my drill press, moving slowly the block and cutting the channels between the holes. Now my hand hurts cos' I held it firmly. It's time consuming and there's a clear and present danger of breaking the bit, but I did it as an experiment. I'll post the pic (I hope so) tomorrow of one half of the block cutted this way...

Cheers

i will need to save this thread to my hdd somehow, its gonna contain all the info needed to make a cheapass, good performing block.

i will try rotor's site again. is it the dns2go url you got?

Ooops, I cannot reach the #Rotor's site now...you were right, something IS wrong... Today morning I accesed it through the linked pic's in this thread, but now is not available...

the link points to
http://3rotor.homelinux.com/images/c...04482.JPG.html

but it's not working now...:shrug:

If you wanna I'll email you all the drawings I made in corel .cdr file (all the drawings of the blocks), just say so, no problem...

is it working now..... ? sorry :)


I'm no longer with DNS2GO....

use this one...
http://3rotor.homelinux.com/


you can also use any of my old links, and modify them by replacing the dns2go with homelinux

the rest of the url is still the same.

yes I cut all my blocks with the Dremel. those metal cutting disks are nice but they are too thick and the diameter on them is too big. Makes it impossible to get close enough o the sides without cutting into the sealing surface around the outside...

one thing, do not try and use those expensive Carbide/diamond wheels for Dremel... I tried one, $36 down the tubes....

they are meant for stuff like glass and ceramic. copper just destroys it in less then 10 seconds.

as for the effect of base thickness on the performance of the block, it absolutely depends on the design of the block. It is not a one size fits all affair. What might be true for a Maze3 will most definitely not hold any water with this design.... :) No PUN.....

Yup, everything is fine now!:)

All those pics visible...again...;)

testing some designs in autocad, man, it is more complicated (fun) than i first thought. every drill hole i drew, creates new problems for the next. i now realise that the designs u guys have are carrying more thought than i initially thought.

thx for the url

Any luck with finding thick copper bars?

got some addresses. will start calling around some starting tuesday. will be hard finding the small amounts usefull for us hobbyists. most important part is that i got the addresses ;-)

btw, do u have a sketch of the block when it is finished puzzdre? i imagine something with one inlet and 2 outlets...

can't wait for some new pix (or is it snowing on your balcony again ;-) )

edit: at rotor, got to your site again, and i feel kinda guilty for seeing that many good ideas out there. so , my Q, u seem to use no O-rings nor solder paste. are they well sealed like that with just the bolts tightened?

Anybody, pls help me with this:

1. What diameter are the holes for holding the block to the mobo (I mean what dia I should drill through my block)?

2. Tapping (sp?) the holes - if I want to make the two halves of the block held together and reinforced with screws, like #Rotor have on his blocks, and if I want to tighten the halves with 3 mm dia screws, the question is - what dia should be the hole for tapping it to accept 3 mm screw? I found some taps (packed in 3 pieces, I presume that is for making initial thread with first, and advance in lateral thread depth with other two), but no info on what dia the hole must be for 3 mm screw. I know there are different kinds of threads, but this is something ordinary tapping set, sorry I didn't remember the thread size/step info from the box...

Pls. help!

don't mind the outerlines, they are rough dimensions of my maybe to-come WB

dia is 6.1mm, well, u'll see

edit: i presume you are talking socket a dimensions (u r always talking cost effectiveness, lol, athlon is the way to go)

taken a bit from here:
http://www.dansdata.com/images/coolercomp/holes500.gif

and from here
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...es+motherboard

took me about 2 hrs to find that info (was looking for xact same thing today)

g.l. : for copper in small amounts, did you try to get it from machine shops, maybe you can use some of their leftovers?

No sketch I'm affraid, only in my head (and yours too, cos' you got it - it's central inlet, two outlets!). I must cut it than bring it back to the machine shop for drilling and tapping the large barb holes and also, they will make the barbs for me (I cannot buy them fabricated anywhere)

I'll try to finish one half tomorrow to post the pic, today I tried cutting through the holes in one of square pattern block half, but didn't manage to finish it (about one half)...

:) Yeah, it is cold on the balcony but nothing that doubling the socks, pants and other stuff on me won't beat. Today I got myself one plexy face shield, a little addition to safety...No snow for now, just copper flakes on the floor:D