Yes I do believe that would work (the grinding down, arbor disc saw thing)

though if you had a setup that could do accurate cuts with the disc saw you could skip the whole skived heaksink step and start from a raw peice of copper...

as for how it would perform, well I couldn't say, I saw massive improvements in my micropin block after I altered it with the fewer pins and higher volecity water flow, the improvement was so large in fact that I'll be revisiting the jet designes I used when I was direct die cooling in my next block. I will of course post full results if works well:cool:

yea I got the 20RZ, quite happy with it, on the suction side it will flatten 5/8'' vinyl tubing if you block the end, neat :D , I can use 90 degree elbows everywhere and it just just doesn't care.

It's very quiet, the metal casing get's quite warm, I ended up zip tieing a couple of heatsinks to it (mainly for my own peice of mind) I'm sure it doesn't need them though (it is a light industrial pump after all) heat into the water is very minimal, similar to a little submersable 7w pump.

It would be a tight squeeze in a case, not impossible, but tight.

True!, I'd be taking the 'Junior Hacksaw' aproach though, so the less work the better!. Also I can't find anywhere that stocks/sells copper bar(flat) for the life of me!, and there is'nt a scrappy within 20miles of me anymore :( , I've only got me pins and a mountainbike for transport so I can't go looking on the 'off chance', 32years old and can't drive a car :eek: (well legaly) the shame of it! :D ...

oh ok then, well I've got a couple of tips to make the cutting process a lot less painfull.

use a hacksaw with a very fine tooth count

get some 1mm copper or alluminium sheet, cut this up into thin strips and insert it into the gaps between the fins, then you can cut through the whole lot without making a mess of the fins, you won't believe how thin and fragile the fins are untill you see them in the flesh (or start cutting them with a hacksaw:p) .

I would be very interested in some technical drawings or 3D models of the Cathar's WW block, not so I can copy it, but simply so I can understand exactly what is going on... I have searched many forums for this but haven't found anything as of now. Can anyone link me to information regarding the development / reason / techincal details behind LRWW?

Tnx, Felix

very nice block again, my great respect to you volenti!

Reverse-Engineering Cathar's block isn't too complicated.

Lol, given that you have access to a working model... which I don't :)