hrmm 2.5gal.
94.64ml should be enough then. ok i'll send you 100ml :)

Guess Humberto is sending me around 400oz of this stuff. So should be enough for everyone.

Jaydee116 - Are you trying to scare the n00bies? LOL

Good ole' battery effect ;) BigBen explained it perfectly.
Edit: See BillA's reply below

BTW I wouldn't be too surprised if the US version of Cathar's WW will be offered with an anodized aluminum top too. We'll see ;)

the corrosion shown is not galvanic
the correct name is cell corrosion, aka pitting corrosion
it is the functioning of a small cell in the presence of an electrolyte (the small cell becoming larger over time)
there was an excellent thread on corrosion on overclockers (perhaps someone has a link)

thanks for the inhibitor
thanks to Humberto also

thx Bill

Corrosion links (Click!)

Found lots of useful info over @ corrosion-doctors.org

Pitting Corrosion

Galvanic Corrosion

Hell I am still a n00bie so why not. ;)

LOL :)

but...
 

Good enough topic to shoot a dumb question.

I've read some time ago that someone (no, i dont get any more ambiguous than this) earthed the waterblock (connected it to the ground of the case) and got some results out of it.

I find it hard to belive, but asking doesnt hurt ... much.

It did'nt pan out enough to get a 'definative' result IIRC, but some people claimed it increased their overclock by a small (IMO) margine...

*****************************************

I took it for granted that it did, water is'nt a 'perfect carrier/conductor' is it?. if not then bringing the two closer together can only antagonise it?...

That's my surmise anyway, why I took it for granted...

Ethylene Glycol is a no-no -
(from http://www.neosyntheticoil.com/coolant.htm )
but are there any downsides with Propylene Glycol?

I personally use Silkolene Pro Cool (as the one I referred to in my earlier post).

BTW, hi Mark - didn't spot your name on the thread till now... :)

For those that don't know, ProCool, as opposed to ProCCA, contains propylene glycol, as well as the corrosion inhibitor.

ProCCA is strictly the inhibitor.

Does anyone have an opinion on this additive, considering the contents?

again:
Highly refined mineral oil: 40 - 50%
Diethoxyethanol: <5%
Fatty Alcohol ethoxylate: <5%
Sodium Sulphonate: 5 - 15%

I forgot to mention -
I did some testing once with my waterchiller in a tap water/antifreeze environment at subzero temps.
I did observe that the corrosion was much more prevalent where the mixed metals were in contact (alu, copper and mild steel) underwater.
So I'm currently siding with Ben and MadDogMe on this one but am interested to know the basis for Fixitt's reservations. :)


Regards grounding between (alu) rad and (copper) block, I should add that with my setup, my rad is not earthed to the case (plexi rad mount) so this may be a factor that I hadn't taken into consideration in my earlier post.

The thing I read was just about grounding the block to the case IIRC, not to the rad. It was for CPU stability/overclocking as well, not Galvanic corrosion(if that's what you're thinking?)...

My god... I think Fixitt is right. Who gives a rats ass what the block is gonna look like in two years. IF your are really into water cooling you will upgrade at least twice a year and wouldn't really care about anything other than how much further you can push your rig with the new configuration. IF you know what your doing you will not use tap water thus this entire thread is useless. The list goes no....

Lets have more constructive conversations instead of everyone rushing to their encyclopedia to act like they know what they are talking about only to over analyze everything. This isn't rocket science guys, it's plain old water cooling. :shrug:

[/rant]

RickCain
yours is a good teener approach, lots of that on the hard forums
need a link ?
no one is forcing YOU to think, or learn anything

some here have commercial interests, some don't wish to fill their rad with corrosion product, and some just want to know
different strokes fella

your back button work ?

Ok, Rick, as BillA kindly pointed out, if you don't want to know, you didn't have to read it in the first place. Also, are you telling me I'm not a real watercooler unless I junk my LRWW 3-4 months from now? sorry then, I've never really been good at these kinds of things.

Just for the record, what the deuce does using distilled water do to negate the effects of galvanic corrosion. I'm really confused. I'm sure I don't really need to know, but I wouldn't mind clarification, cause saving the headache of picking an anti-corrosive agent would be kinda nice.

:D I love the way Badams is polite (!) to a rant and opens right up on an 'vanilla' mistake. Where would we be without you eh BillA?, the [H]2o dark ages :D ...


Then again he ignored the 'tap water' mistook?...

I'd like to know what 'tap water' has to do with galvanic corrosion as well?, I though the only 'bad' from using tap water was mineral deposits?...

PS, sorry Rick, some of these people actualy DO know what they're talking about ;) ...

The higher salinity of teh water increasesd the electrical conduction? I think thats right.

Brian W

I sounded this stupid once. I am sure unregistered remembers. If you Buy a $90 White Water today do you really think you will need to buy another in 6months? Nothing going to beat this block for a long time and if it does it will only be 1C or maybe 2 if they are lucky. Why bother buy another one? The White Water should last you several years. And the way it was built will make that possible. No half assing in it.

Boy, I think I was taken out of context to some dergee.

My rant, was supose to show, that when taken into consideration that aluminum and copper are used together, and if you take the "KNOWN" precautions, IE. inhibitors. Then running the mixed metal block is really not that big of an issue. Still an issue granted. There has been alot of information churned up in this thread. Some good, some great. And some so off the wall, that it really doenst need to be here, but hey, that is why the forums are here. I still think that there is a middle being missed here. Dont look at a cooling system to be an investment, your computer isnt an investement, nor is your car. They are expenses to get you a certain destanation. How many people run antifreeze in there cars cooling loop?

Now before I get flamed (and Bill, Just SHUT UP...... just jokin my friend)

We would all like for things to work forever, but they dont. that is why it is an expence. You will need to service it in some form or fashion.

(this outta start something good im thinking)
FIX

Would you rather buy a Hyundai or a Honda? (don't bother bringing up I buy USA only, you get my point) It isn't about servicing, it is how often you need to service it and how long it lasts. ;)

so with a USA car you needent do the preventative maintance, as often as imports? I did not know that. HUMMM......

No, just the opposite. There is no such thing as "preventative" maintenance on domestic cars, it is all just maintenance. ;) :p

Jay, you crack me up my friend.

Thanks. :)

I think some of us are missing the larger picture here - there's no point in trying to stop debate by saying that it is pointless because we'll be replacing the blocks soon anyway.

What about long-term use? I don't understand this point of view - maybe i wasn't brought up to think everything is expendable, but i think its good that the collective knowledge of the cooling gurus is being applied here rather than in threads asking which is the best waterblock for fifty dollars.

I'm honored that my topic has garnered so many replies, and understand a lot more about the science behind all this than i did before. :)

Mark....... your right, what would you say would be long term usage?

I have had the exact same block in my system for almost 2 years now. And its a copper aluminum block. With total success.


and I ran an all aluminum spir@l (Firstone ever made) for a very long time. With simalure results. Hell all that happened to that block was the channels got a little discolored. More from the blue food coloring I put in the coolant then anything else.

the fact is that yes, copper and aluminum excelerate corrosion. But with the right measures taken................. it works. Now does it work just as good as an all copper block...... YES it does. Are the possabilities of corrosion higher then an all copper block. Cant dispute that at all. Its been tested, proven, and is a fact. But if its done right, and like most perfectionists here........ well enough said.