Yea that will be fine, though you should be able to sneak the middle holes down a bit deeper, say another 1mm.

Well having the water exit channel in the copper BP makes the top a lot simpler to make:D

lol, yeah, that plexy sure is a behatch to work in...

if i get it that makes from top to bottom:
3.7mm
4.5mm
1.8mm

i hope the 1250 can get the jets going over that distance, maybe i should take away the 2 - 4 - 8 - 10 o'clock holes of the jets.

nah that pump will be fine over that distance, leave the 9 jet's as they are, in my subjective under water testing the jet's still have "bite" up to 15mm away with a pump only slightly more powerfull then the 1250.

why, thank you for all those kind words and advice ;-)

to work then...

:) Time for another challenge m8?!;)

Go Go Go!

well, thx,

gonna try doing it real slow. the holes for the jets need to be lined up perfectly.

other thing is that i only have cheap ass plexi 2mm thick; so have already glued 3 sheets together to get 6mm for the barbs. if it turns out ok, it will be the ultimately cool for the inventiveness of the used materials.

Hi guys,
I was planning on building one of these block but first I was going to see if it would perform better than my simulated channel block. Using the Cryoterm (I think that is the place) jet impingement calculator I would find out and compare the H values. But I don't know how much pressure drop the block would create.

Volenti, perhaps you could measure the flow through the block and guestimate how much pressure drop, thanks.

If it helps my design would be using 7, 1.5mm diameter holes.

do you have an ikea close to you ?
if yes then go and get an acrylic picture frame they have 2 pieces 1 is 10mm thick and the other as 2mm. i pay 7 pounds in the uk. perfect for making block tops.

guys need your opinion/comments/suggesions on this one... got all the materials... only need an ample amount of time :)

http://www.geocities.com/beaukeke/pooh.txt

for reference, the cross line in the middle measures 18mm.

Pump, "pond" style rated at 2800L/H and 2.5m head max.

block, 9x 1.5mm jet holes

"free" flow (through 1m 1/2'' tubing, 0 head) 1296L/H

flow through block; 277L/H

pressure drop; lots :D

rotate the jet/hole pattern by 90 degrees to better cover the "heat signature" of the rectangular T-bred core, either that or add another 3 jet holes to either side of your existing design, the holes in the base that aren't "recieving" jet's are doing buggerall and should be omitted for strength.

looks good.

oh, remember to try and aviod large spans of thin base plate, it will tend to bend on you.

thx for a gr8 tip leejsmith

:D

no problem.
If you want to make it look nice lap the sides down to 1500 grit after you cut it and then spary with clear paint.
It will go perfectly clear

good luck.

lee

thx, i will need it; first time i need to do the higher precision jet design. first time i will be working in plexi.

so, u mean to spray clear paint on the plexi?

how bout this?

http://www.geocities.com/beaukeke/pooh2b.txt

base plate is 1/4", nozzle/jet plate is 1/8", cover plate 1/2"...

yes.
sand the cut sides so they are very smooth start with 120 grit then work down to 1500.The sides will not look clear yet. if you then spray with clear acrylic paint the sanded sides will look clear and you will see through the plexi / acrylic.

For a plexy polishing, a guy that works with it here told me that he 'polishes' the edges with directional flame, eg. small torch, of lighter, but you must be very carefull not to heat the plexy too much to gain the bubbles and loose the flatness.

Dunno, I haven't tried it yet, but that's what he told me...:shrug:

What would you think a pump with 1100L/h and 3.2m head would do through your block?

http://tech.thewalkerschool.org/vand...ges/pgraph.jpg This is a rough graph that I made by GUESSING how the P/Q curve would go. and I predict that by the second red line the the 2 MaxiJet1200 in serial would get better gph @ the full Pd.

Again this is only a guess.

i read that on another modding web site but when i did it with the acrylic it just melted.

anyway here is a quick example of what it can look like with a only a little work. This is made from the ikea picture frame.

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee_smith/clearblock.jpg

yea that's the shot

flowrate? hmm about 350L/H mabie up to 400L/H (assuming we're talking about the 2 maxijet's in series)

note even a single maxijet will give good results, the second pump will give between 1.5-3 degrees lower temp, judging from my experience with dual pumps and direct die jets.

BAD NEWS BEN!
http://www.dnlcomputers.com.au/Water...cs/White2a.jpg
http://www.dnlcomputers.com.au/Water...ing%20gear.htm
http://forum.oc-forums.com/vb/showth...02#post1662502

It's nice to know that my idea can fetch $80 USD!

What's with the white lacey stuff anyways? Pffft!

In all fairness though, I had a lot more holes in mind, over a wider area ... maybe I should just shut up now... Ya'll PM me, if you're an interested Venture Capitalist, ok? :D

When I cut plexi/acylic/lexan, ect. on my mill , I use tranny fluid and wipe it in real good where I cut, and it becomes as clear as the uncut stuff and stays that way.

It was a tip from a guy I know that does custom windows, ect.

how rough is the plexi after you mill it ? i sand it because i hand cut the sides and it's very rough after.

with a sharp bit it generally comes out pretty smooth, smooth enough to polish up with a dremel polishing tip and some medium cut paste, even if you don't polish it when it's wet it usually clears up pretty well.

The white stuff is the same that Volenti used in his prototype...

Volenti, did you do this?

Can you give us more info on that tranny fluid (I really don't have the simplest idea what that is:D )?

Pls?

I believe he means automotive automatic transmission fluid.

Bob

You guys have cars over there? :shrug:

http://www.gopurepower.com/purepower_transmission.html