one question for you machinist, does there exist any xyz table for a drill press?? i mean the table itself moves up and down not the drill press itself

I agree with the idea of just bonding the tube in place with a epoxy, I would still use copper tube for the thin walls. Would suggest you use a but of 200 grit sandpaper to rough up the part of the tube to be bonded into the plexi top.

If you want to use clear as BB said another couple sources you could check.

www.mcmaster.com At this one the platics are in the raw materials & springs section of the first page.

www.delviesplastics.com This ones good only if you intend using acrylic.

Would suggest use of polycarbonate (Lexan) instead of acrylic, it's worth the extra cost as polycarb is about 30X stronger than acrylic.

I have not seen one before. Doesn't mean they do not exist though.

A xy & Z or just a xy tool? I havn't see a 3 way moving set up.

XY's can be had at shops selling milling equipment.

I know that it might be a stupid question, but I'll ask anyways: why?

Probably so he doesn't have to hold down the drill press handle and try to run the xy table at the same time. Some drill presses do not have a lock to hold it down. Mine doesn't. Using handwheels is a lot easier when you can have a hand on each x and y wheel at the same time.

you guessed why :drool:

so i actually did some work, that's why i took so long to post.

i found a way to use a z axis and not change the direction of where the xy table would look (i don't know if u understood this bit)

i hung a car's jack (or jag: don't know how to spell it) at the bottom of the table and when i would need to change the height, i can first open the nut at the rear of the table then change the height using the jack and then tight the nut again for security.

on the other hand, i am still not decided what xy table i am going to buy: i saw this link what do you think??

do you have other sources??

thank you

another thing that i modified before will start milling was the outlets positions. because i had to increase the size of the input, the 3 barbs did not fit near each other :eek: so i had to remodify the drawing again

If your drillpress is like mine, to lock the z axis you could do like I did. Should be more accurate.

actually i posted my reply to this thought on your thread because that is the one i saw first. when i tried that method, the z axis never locks up accuratly, far away. mabye your drill press is somewhat differente, at least i hope so

so here is an update of my design. i increased a channel on each side as you suggested my but in the last channel there are only 3 holes and in the one before the last i reduced it from 7 to 5.

now do you know where the fu** i am going to find a barb either plastic or al, better plastic having a thread of 22mm??? the inlet is preffered to be 5/8" or 1/2"

any help and any comments???

Thank you for your help :dome:

no help?? :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry: :cry:

you mean barbs like this?

they can be had from most hardware stores, look in the micro irrigation section.

but does there exist something of the sort of this size?? (see picture) with an input of 5/8" or 1/2" or i will need to use a reduce. [in the picture i am assuming that the width of the plastic where the thread is found is 2mm]

something more, those any body else know a good link for an xy table better than the one i showed you.

actually i think that the one you showed me fits exatly my needs :).

thankx volenti

and i also saw this xy-table

What do you think??

Now i have a question and i think that there is quite something to discuss in it.

you know that the wb in the middle will have drilled holes. now my question is this, do you think that it is better to drill the holes some millimeters further down than the fins or not?? what i mean is that is it better to make the holes look like dimplets or better have a straight finish??

thank you for your help and comments ;)

no help??:cry: no discussion?? :cry:

If you go that route, just dimple the bottom. Don't go too deep.

Bob

Thank you utabintarbo.

Now just a little update on how the work is going. The aluminium is bought, i bought 32cmx6cmx8mm so that i can construct 4 blocks.

I also bought the xy table and a 1 x 1mm bit and 1 x 5 mm bit.

now i am planning to do the following constructs.
Block1: 4mm base : 4mm deep channels
Block2: 3mm base : 4mm deep channels
Block3: 3mm base : 3mm deep channels
Block4: 2mm base : 4mm deep channels

All these blocks are going to be milled out in al

Any suggestions/comments before i start milling??

You probably want to stick with 4mm channels, but try 1 and 2 mm BPs.

i will ben, thank you for the suggstion. the problem that i want to stick with 4mm channels is that the 1mm end mill that i got is only 4mm long. i wished that it was 5mm but he had no 5mm long endmills 1mm diameter :cry:

so new configuration:

Block1: 4mm base : 4mm deep channels
Block2: 3mm base : 4mm deep channels
Block3: 2mm base : 4mm deep channels
Block4: 1mm base : 4mm deep channels (this is going to be a bit difficult considering that i am milling in al and with a drill press and an xy table)

I wouldn't bother with the 4mm baseplate. It's been demonstrated here numerous times that for this design, it's too much.

I'd try 1mm for sure, and 2mm for reference/testing.

ok then ben, thank you for your reply. maybe i would also try the 3mm base plate to see how it does in al :)

anyone can suggest anything else?

Try It out! My suggestion is this:

First try to not drill the holes at all
Then try drilling them 3mm deep
Then try drilling them 4mm deep
Then try drilling them 4.5mm deep (in a 2mm baseplate)

For this test you will only "waste" 1 wb.

That is all

you mean drilling the holes 2mm less than the depth of the fins???:shrug:

i did not intend to do that at all, i was wondering whether drilling the holes the same depth of the fins or a little bit more creating some sort of dimplets

No, 1mm less