You wouldn't be referring to Morphling1's work, would you? ;) (he went for less than 1mm, with round saw blades).

The problem is that you have to have a steadily mounted, and level workbench. Not impossible.

Actually, I was refering to hacksaw blades. :)

Then you'd be referring to Volenti's work :p

http://users.bigpond.net.au/volenti/mitre_saw.jpg

I used this (among other tools) to make my micropin block, without the other cross cuts it essentially would have been a cathar clone, channels ~1.1mm wide.

What is that type of saw called? Actually I wanted something smaller and simpler :( No need of a fansy vise for shitblock :p

Ok, so I sealed the waterblock with a two part epoxy "araldite". Will it cause problems since i've heard that epoxies degrade with water but, will it still seal the blocK?

Only time will tell ;)

but i think he would not be happy if after some time, his block will leak on the motherboard :mad:

That's the problem. It ain't leaking now but it's a lesson I can't afford to take.

they are called mitre saws. at least they are in the uk.
:)

Check out their website (Araldite) to see if it's waterproof...

I searched and found the product but in a similar package. It says it's water resistance. I'll have to trust it then :)

Nicozeg might know for sure, being the resident Resin specialist! :D ...

Ooops, being out of the forums lately; Thanks for the specialist title.

My first block had parts bonded together with quick epoxy, and it leaked at about 6 months of use. Each brand is different and I have no experience with araldite and water, but beware that being "water resistant" is not the same as "safe for continuous inmersion"

There is an easy test you can make: take two scrap pieces of cured epoxy, and leave one under water in a closed container. Degradation is slow, but you can have a hint in about a week; if there's some color difference between the parts means bad news. If after a month both look the same in color and hardness, you're safe :)

Did that test in a slightly different manner. On squirrel, the barbs where made leak proof using araldite. The araldite in contact with the water became orange and like plasticine while the part not in contact with water was still hard. What do you think?

What should I use instead? Silicone won't suite me since the area of contact is very small.

So clearly araldite is not good with water. In squirrel it don't matter, cause it's still filling the leak points and is not working as structural support.

Silicone is not as bad as you may think; when aplied over a very clean and degreased surface it can be a very good adhesive.

The epoxy I use for waterproof aplication is the one used for fiber impregnation on reinforced plastics. Unfortunately the smallest quantity usually sold is 1 Kg and has a shelf life of about a year, maybe two. Not very practical if you need it only to bond small parts. :shrug:

Yeah. I need an adhesive which isn't fussy about the surface. Is JB weld or plumber's goop good then?

Go with silicone, use it between the contact surfaces and a thick cord sealing the perimeter. It's going to look a bit ugly but I guess it don't matters in this block :D

When applied over a clean surface, it's adhesive strenght can be near 20 Kg/cm2. A 5mm thick cord over the perimeter of a 5cm square gives 10 cm2 of contact area, or 200 KG. Using a safety factor of 0.5 it still can hold 100 kg. More than enough for the task.

That's what I used for my block, It's not the best looking but completely stiff. You can see more details about it here.

The problem is that the are of contact is really small. A 1mm edge. I tried silicone before but pressre blasted the silicone away :eek:

What was the main condition for a good adhesion I told you?

CLEAN SURFACE!

If you have fingergrease over the copper, you are bonding to the grease, not the metal!

So please try again, this time sand the copper, clean it with alcohol, and apply the silicone inmediately, without touching the parts.

And how do you think is the contact area of my copper cap? It's also 1 mm thick, that's why I reinforced the edge with a thick cord.

You have two flat areas to the sides that provide enough surpface to hold the block parts together, you only need to seal the narrow sides to avoid leaks, not for support.

Ok, I'll keep that in mind then. :)
As an indication, how much time does silicone take to cure itself?

Ok, so I had a chance to test this block. It fares well against the maze3. With the 2400+ I had a 2C difference (in favor of shitblock).

any pics of it in action m8:)

here, I'll also update the squirrel thread: