Id go with a new 8Rda3+..........Wish I had waited a few months before I got my 8RDA+, and got one of those!
Why not Go Nforce2 Jaydee?
I know many people have had problems with my board from the start, but for me, I havent had a single problem since I put mine in.......And it rocks!
Only thing I miss having is Vdd adjustment in the BIOS(which the new board now has):drool:

Cause I am broke.

when your open to suggestions, Ill suggest you a motherboard....

Whatever.

that was harsh.

I got a few other names for it other than harsh. :D

:p

But ASUS A7N8X reads the CPU Thermal diode... which is perfect for water blocks testing.;)

ask billa how "perfect" the CPU thermal diode is for water block testing, mine changed 10 degrees with a single bios update...

I am proving my A7N8X with three different bios versions and I don't find any variation of significant temperature in the internal diode.

The only variation that I detect is that the reading is erroneous when an Athlon XP is used with palomino core
and with 1003 the temperature of the system is erroneous as well as the temperature of the pwrtemp.

It is possible that the measurement is not
correct one but we do not have very much where to choose exempting
the costly systems of measurement.

I believe that it is a good motherboard to evaluate the performance of our waterblocks.

Ketchak.
www.devilmaster.cjb.net

There's no such thing as an accurate mobo diode reader, and Asus are the worst of the lot! :D ...

My new NF7S is about 5DegC higher than my KX7 was with the same CPU, different mobo but same manufacturer, both have Winbond chips as well. If they can't caliberate a mobo by now!...
Perhaps it's their idea of 'tolerance' that's to blame?, "anywhere within 10DegC of somewhere will do" :p ...

Hey Jay, I'm pretty sure BillA doesn't mind testing blocks at DIY rate as long as the testing is done before any are sold. I'm basing this on some of his comments to Neo. Also "Sponsorship" of DIY blocks is an option. Here are some details. I'd be willing to help out and I'm sure others would be too. I really hope you consider having it tested. Not so much to see how it does against other blocks, but rather to add hard numbers of a new design to our knowledge base.

And for another topic: I really like how your threads turned out on your "plexi" top. I need some pointers on how you did them. Tools used and technique please. I had my first try at it last night and the results were less than spectacular.

peace.
unloaded

Once I get the final one done I will see about getting it tested.

As for the threads in the top I use the laser at work to cut the 7/16" hole for the 1/4"NPT tap and just used the tap and a crecent wrench to make the threads. You go in untill it gets a little hard to turn, then back it all the way out, go back in untill it gets hard to turn again then back it all the way out. Repeat untill your at your desired depth. I always stop short so the barb bottom will not go past the bottom of the hole. Bad things happen if you tourque the barb down to hard and it goes past the bottom of the hole. It will lift the top off the base and either break the seal or even crack the top.

question for ya Jaydee, how do you attach the plexy to the copper? I see the screw, but do they actually hold in that thin copper?

1/8" is plenty actually. Holdes just fine. Look around your computer case, there are mucho screws in it with less than 1/8" worth of threads. ;)