Not only does it have disk brakes it also has a real suspension. Mono shock in the rear and dual spring loaded (I think) in the front end. One heck of a fine bike.

How many gears does it have? 10, 12, 15, 18, 21 ???????? Very nice indeed.:D

There are no good hardware store over here though...

Oh what about that huge computer mall. They should/must sell copper.

actually...nope...

you're a 3gm forum member right?

JCYC5, see if you can find someone who works for electric power company, they use solid copper bars for transformer buses, maybe you could find used one. Another place to look for is (if there are any) machine shops there, ask for scrap pieces if they work with copper.

Cheers!

RESURRECTION!
 

Well, it took me some time to dig this thread, but finally...

Got the blocks installed, re-tubed the complete system, and here are the pic's:)

Here are the blocks installed on the cpu and nb in series, the water goes pump>cpu>nb>flow indic.>rad>pump

Here's another view

The whole rig, from the side...

Got some UV blue dye from becooling months ago, now finally, got the UV cold cathode, it works really well...

And a pic from the inside...

One should be careful when working with UV dye, this is AFTER I washed my hands:shrug:

And the retired one, sob, sob:p

Still got to paint the sides and the top (this front mask of the case was beige, now it's dark blue).

The results...Hmmm....Not so satisfied with the multi V block. I've got higher overclock, but think that's mainly thx to nb block, now I'm runnin my 1700 JIUHB on 12.5x196 stabile. It won't do 200, prolly cos the mobo is rev. A3. The temps are not lower compared to the retired block, they are 41 C idle, 47 C load, and I just don't like 'em being above 40:shrug:
With the old block, I was running 12x193 stable, it wouldn't let me crank the multiplier to 12.5

Mobo is 8RDA+, RAM 2x256 Kingmax 3200, AMD tbredB 1700+

It'll have to do till I got some time to make another #Rotor style block, now with brand new lexan goodness, thx to BlackEagle:cool:

Does anybody have experience with the later revisions of the 8RDA+, do they really go higher stable? Is it worth it to change the mobo for a later rev?

Thx!

i bought an other rad and case, i alsow made an homemade plexi reservoir

so i'm working on it right now,
ppff i hope it will be ready very soon

@ g.l. i asked and they can get thicker but you have to order it, the thickest they have in stock is 5 mm

btw i my cannondale is much better :p

greetz

Good job Puzzdre.

My only concern is: Isn't the cpu block very flow-limiting?
How thick is the layer of copper between the bottom of the channels and the bottom of the block?
My experiences say that for amd processors is better to have very thin layer of copper between the CPU and water.
I like your chipset block. Very nice.
What are you cooling your southbridge with? I have 8rda+ also, and my southbridge was going like 60°C measured with temperature probe and i had some problems with sound at that point.

Keep up the nice work :)

Thx Jackal!

Unfortunately, the block is VERY flow restrictive, and that's one of the things that will make me ditch it soon. It makes my little maxi jet pump considerably warmer and louder, too much backpressure.

The base thickness is 1 - 1.5 mm, I cannot say more precisely cos I made the channels with dremel, from the hand.

I still got nothing on the south bridge chip, I was thinking of passive hs, but not sure will I keep the mobo or go for a newer one.

Well, back to the drawing board, and I can't say I feel too sad cos of that:p

Cheers!

Puzzdre,

When drilling through Plexi/Acrylic, there is an EASY way to prevent cracking!!!

How you say? :shrug: :confused: :shrug:

Use either a steep angle bit, which, you can buy or grind down yourself. Endmills work well too.

OR

Clamp a second piece of scrap Plexi/Acrylic under it (just enough to catch the whole drill bit tip). Remember to clamp it down tight.

This will give the bit tip more material to drill into and less chance of snapping the finish part you are working on. :dome:

As for tapping Plexi/Acrylic... I used sunflower or corn oil from the kitchen. You could use any vegitable based oil, but I wouldn't waste a good Olive oil on it. :D :p

Thx for the tips TimeLord!

I managed to drill the plexy without developing cracks, problem is how to make them not appear later, when you screw the barb in. I used some liquid semi-permanent Loctite sealant, and it works well, but tiny 'cracks', visible only under certain angle inside the structure of the plexy appeared week or so later. No leaks, just hardly visible changes inside the plexy.

I'm gonna use some lubricant next time I cut the threads in plastic, and it will not be olive oil (hmmm, fish, anybody?:cool: )

Think that I cannot find mill bit that is 14.5 mm dia, I'm gonna try to make somethin similar from a extra drill bit I have.

Thx!

Cheers!

Looks pretty nice Puzzdre!:cool: I think I'm a 48 year old kid, I still love the UV effect.

You should have seen some of the really cool UV posters they used to sell in the US. Had a couple tacked up in my room back then, with UV floods on them.

Always like to see new set ups.

Thx BE!

It seems pretty impossible that cold cathode tubes are available here in Cro for last two or three months:shrug: . I almost have installed my big UV bulb I'm using for making PCB's into the case, but it's too big, and puts a lot of heat around it...

Hehe, I'm 31 yr old kid, and must admit, it's damn good to be a kid with it's own income...there's so many toys out there...:cool:

Cheers!

Hehe... you guys said brake disc...

Disc Brakes... proper English..

Very nice work Puzzdre. All this is making me want to build another one. I'll have to dust off the drill press and give it a go soon.

Hi Puzz

Next time you need to drill acrylic, try a brad point drill bit.
Here's what it looks like. Drill a pilot hole, move up to a bigger brad point drill and you'll have no problems.

It must have been really touchy doing it with a regular twist drill. A little too much feed rate and your top is toast. :mad:

If you've got a grinding wheel with a sharp edge, you could grind a drill yourself. Just make sure the distance from the center of the drill to the edge is the same on both flutes.

Hi Joesgarage,

and thx for the tip! :)

I got spare 14.75 mm bit for those barb holes, and gonna take it to the machine shop to grind it for me, they already offered to do it when they made barbs for me.

And I'm gonna need it soon LOL ;) , prep to make new set of blocks soon :D

Thx again for the help

CHEERS! :cool: