but it won't react unless both pelts fail, cause even 1 172watt pelt will certainly keep it under 57C.

I'll probly put one on each cold plate anyway just cause MECI has a minumum order thing of $20.

I'm trying to figure out how to cut off the Pelt PS after I shutdown the computer.

it can't be a simple relay, cause the ps_ok line will rely on the Pelt PS being on. So I can't just run a relay off the 12V of the computer to keep the Pelt PS on.(IE, pelt PS is on first)

Im gonna open up mspaint and figure this out. I think I've got it in my head, just need to make sure.

http://kornnutz.virtualave.net/supercool/blah.bmp

ok, got it, the grey blocks are relays, the green circles are temp switches.

this setup should keep the kiddies from turning something on with out the other.

I'll have to hold the pelt PS button in and then hit the computer on button to get everything up.

Worship my mad mspaint skilz:evilaugh:

yeah, have the switch in the ps_ok line, and have that turn off relays for the pelt psu.

got the 2nd transformer hooked up
 

http://kornnutz.virtualave.net/supercool/power10.jpg

http://kornnutz.virtualave.net/supercool/power11.jpg

nice pics man.

http://www.mpja.com/product.asp?product=13135+PS

what about 4 of those. you'd get 20v 26a, which is more than enough.

that would only power 2 172watters, I'm going for 4 total system. dual xp's :drool:

there are quite a few psu's at that place that are 50a or more on the 5v rail

%^#*%@!!!
 

oh great, I order the 13.5V 20Amp transformers, and now swiftec carries the 220W pelts!!!! ARGGHHH!!!!:mad: :mad: :mad: :confused:

ok, so I have 2 options.

1) sell the linear powersupply and get a switching one, 15V at 44Amps.

2) buy a 3rd transformer and rectifier and tie it in to the system.

And for those of you that want to be able to set your voltage to whatever you want......

The TEC-Driver

resago, buy a 3rd one, it's just a cool thing to do ;)


actually, I'm thinking about speed controllers for RC cars, some of those can be run at 200A or some other huge value, most are designed for 7.2v - 8.4v range, but some for dual motors are designed for 14.4v - 16.8v

ok, I'll buy a third one :D

I also acquired another case, its an old compaq prolient server tower. It had a ppro 200 on an EISA MB.
it has room to put the power supply inside along with a 9x6 heatercore.

pics coming soon.

I'm Glad DD finally got 226Watt Pelts:D :cool:

gotta remeber those things are freakin huge....ull only be able to get one per block...what are the specs of ur ps as of now?

For info and a discussion about p/s under $200 for pelts, read this thread ;)

Just my dumb little comments:

1) those things are F'n huge! but, for a case, I was looking at my subwoofer with a sneer on my face, what about a wooden box? make it look sylish :)

2) Rotor, do you seriously have to water cool ever single little part (ok, dumb question) but the mosfets?

I feel a little twitch inside me, all of a suddon, I am going to start planning a better system (looking at fridge cooling a rad, just because all this other Tec PS stuff is waaaayyy over my head, and something tells me but discharging one of those caps into you hand... I'll quote many people on this one

"Shut up foo, or I'll pop a cap in your ass"
:evilaugh: :evilaugh: :evilaugh: :evilaugh: :evilaugh:

-WireX

Well building your own score a much higher badass factor overall, but you can get steals on ebay sometimes too.

I got 2 brand new meanwell sp-500-15s off of it. One for $60 and one for $75. There normally like 280-300 each but that gets me 64 amps at 15v for $135. As for the slot car idea i though about using a train transformer but was worried about how stable the power would be.

Word of warning though dont start two of them up at once they draw about 7-8 amps 120v inrush and can kill a breaker lol.:eek:

bump.
this was too good of a thread to let die.

This thread rocked. :D

Some Enermax models produce upto 38-amps @ 12-volts.

Use an atx psu starter to have the computer start another ATX PSU automatically.

A few points:

* Parallel caps are fine
* To limit inrush current to the caps use a 10 ohm 10W ceramic capacitors which gets switched out via a relay after a moment
* Linear supplies are ineffienct and very heavy
* Bridge rectifies can be paralleled up
*SMPS are not very hard to build and can be made cheap. There are excellent high power low Rds switching FETs available. To stay within the SOAR curves you can parallel the switching FET.
*The SMPS road means you may design for varying loads and hence output voltages can be adjusted. There is also the possibilty of implementing a resonant mode power suppy which vastly reduced EMI.
*25V volts will not discharge through your skin. Install bleeder resistors.
*The stuff inside capacitors is carsengenic and makes a hell of a mess

Your power bill will be large. Althought I'm all for TECs phase-change cooling stands the most efficient for sub-zero temperatures.

I wonder how stirling cycle engines are now...