How thick is the base Fixitt?

General comments - basic method is good. Can't tell from those pics, but the recesses look to be too deep for optimal results in the "straight" runs of the channel. Other thing, the "spike" on the inside wall going into turn 2 shouldn't be there (or extend VERY little, on the order of 10 mils).

Remember, if the recesses in the straight portions of the channel are too deep or the protrusions stick out too far, you can end up creating stagnate conditions against the walls of the recesses.

Bad analogy - think of standing behind a crate against a wall in the wind. Close to the outside edge of the crate you still feel the wind. The farther from the edge you go towards the wall, the less you feel the wind. In the corner of the wall and crate you have almost no air movement. Then as you move along the wall away from the crate the wind starts picking back up.

I understand that,

a quick dremle job can clear that up

as for the base, it verrys on thickness, the bottom of the passage is very very very un-even, I did this on purpouse to creat turbulance, but for argument sake, the base is about .100

I think that would perform very well, due to the turbulance, now all you need to do is sandblast the insides of it

Just so happens that I have a sand blaster and a fresh bag of blasting media, it just makes a mess, I need to go to wal-mart and some 90 degree corner brackets so I can build my blasting cabonet, I have the wood already cut for it. Just need to put it together

Sorry, just trying to help and be clear on what I said :D I have a tendency to get "too technical" at times, lol :o

Base thickness - just wanted a rough number on the average thickness, thanks. I'm a bit surprised you started with a thinner base.

Q, in that last pic is that just the top, or the top attached to a base?

That is the just the top standing in front of the base. Yeah I went with a thinner base because of the predicted turbulance.
I think it will work jut as good.

And with the passages set the way they are, half of the wall for the inlet will be over the processor, so I am hoping the heat will go up that wall. With water smashing all around it.

There is a method to my madness, just dont tell anyone.

Any idea how long www.dorrellco.com has been down??? The host's site is dead aswell.:( Hope they didn't go under without notice.:(

Bahahah nevermind it's alive!!!:)

Epoxy was the only way I could seal it up decent enough to test it. Just not enough on the edges to use silicone or anything else. You should have seen the crap CPUFX had on there originally. Black tar looking stuff. probably poorly mixed epoxy of some kind.

LOL, I dont doubt it J.

to tell ya the truth, I took the 4 iddy bitty wussy bolts out, and smacked it one time with a hemmer, and POP it came apart. What do U think aobut the new base I made? Had fun plundging a 1/4 in carbide end mill. Ohh the NOICE it made! LOL

Yeah it looks interesting. Plenty of turbulance!!

Fix, could you just knock one of the barbs with a hammer? I'm just curious to see if it will fall apart

The barbs are threaded in. The epoxy is just a seal.

hehe ok, so it'd rip the block apart instead :P

Hehe, i'm with you guys.. I'm not too sure about the milling either. An idiot friend of mine ordered one of these things and the bottom was mismachined; I guess these guys have no decent quality control. I also find it funny that I was banned off of the HardOCP forums after telling someone about this in a public thread (after hanging there for about two years without breaking any rules to my knowledge). What a bunch of bull crap; I'll stick with the stuff that works properly..

it's because stephanie dell girl is in love with those gits and anything against them is cause for instant bannage

Thats messed up. I'd troll them forever if that happened to me. :D

dont know if you have an old z4, but i bought one in november and it has 3/8" fittings and the milling looks deep if you look into the fittings
you also cant see the other channels if you look into the fittings
you have an "old" one perhaps?
dont kill me, plz

just send it off to fix, so he can test it to the one he has

PoBoy

U have a 3/8th fittings in your, which really means U have under that as far as the hole going thure your hose fittings, which would explain why you cannot see the second cahnnel, but for those of use who run 1/2 hose fitting and tubing, all they did to accomodate that was make the holes bigger. Which then leads to the channel overlap.

the channels are milled deep, maybe too deep, as they did not leave enought base thickness for optimal heat x-fer (IMHO) I am like I said glad your block is working for you, but as a standard watercooling block with ambeint temp rang, it is not a good choice.

who said it was a good choice for anything?

The one I got was actually probably newer than yours. It was only less than 2 months old. Schoolie sent it right ot me right after he got it from CPUFX which wasn't that long ago.

And yes this one has the 1/2" fittings which are way to big for 1/4" channels with 1/16" channels walls. The channels where 1/4" deep bt 1/4" wide. Rather tiny. Way to small for 1/2" barbs or even 3/8". 1/4" ID barbs should be just right for it being that will match the channel size. Another thing is the 1/16-1/8" gap between the top plate and the top of the channel walls. The water will just bypass the channels and go right to the outlet. My theory is they did it with the 1/2" barb version to increase flow rate so it looks like it is doing good, but it is actually deciving because the extra flow is just bypassing the channles and going right acroos the top of them to the outlet.

There is no way anyone can argue that this block is not over priced for what you get. A Maze 2 is cheaper and far better in all respects exept looks.

Brad,

apperantly for PoBoy (if he is who I think he is) then with his setup, the block seems to be doing failry well. He says it even beats the maze 2`s performance. If I am correct, then he has a oil cooler sitting in a freezer with sub temp air blowing thrue it.

(I am not one to really down grade anything) Maybe this is the best use for this block. Pumping sub temps thrue it. With the base of the block being considerably smaller then the top, I amagine it makes it alot easyer to insolate the socket and the block, as you can get more foam around the base of the block.

It is quite possable that his pump size is also just right for the Z4 and was under powered for the maze2. Hitting the z4`s sweet spot with flow and coolant temp. I am sure there is a good use for every block out there. It just seems that the ambient temp crowd like ourselfs or the pelt crowd would have not use for this block. Other then a paper weight.

Try and find the good in everything. (Shoot the people who make U have to do this :) )

Well, at least there are still cool people over at hardocp. I wrote kyle an email and was unbanned like 2 hours later.. *shrug*

Fixitt, I see the point about the Z4 possibly being easier to insulate, but I bet the DD would still wreck it if it got a proper amount of water flow..

Fire I totally agree with you, But in his setup, with his config, he was able to get the Z4 to work better. I dont expect to see this becoming a habit amung overclockers and watercoolers.

he probably didn't tighten the bolts correctly or something, there is no way that the z4 could beat a maze2, unless under very specific circumstances. All the reviews of the Z4 I've seen are barely better than mid range air cooling, and we know how much better the maze2 is than any form of air cooling

I beleive this to be true as well, but I just cant assume someone didnt do something correctly.

I try to look at it as I would, I try and get the best possable performance and am never really happy.

when did i say i had a maze2?
i just said i have a z4 with 3/8" fittings, not the 1/2" ones and that it is working fine for me(1.8a@2.4)
probably could go higher, but my rdram said "no" to me :)

PoBOy, Im sorry I got U confused with someone else on another forum.

That is my mistake.

I was refering to a guy who got better temps from the z4 then he did the maze2.

Looks like CPUFX read this tread????

http://www.overclockershideout.com/M...tegory_Code=WB